will i be really that dissopointed with an auto lsd h22? or is it worth it going standerd swap and spending alllll that money for instilation, trying to find someone who will do it in my area, hoping they did it right and the linkage wont just fall apart on me, and worrying about if its gona look good at all in the interior?...i talked to a couple people that say its just a garbage idea dont even think about it....but then again i see a lot of people doing it........and know im not gona(do it myself)

 

Be prepared for the deluge. For every 10 respondants you're gonna get 8 nays and 4 yeas. (we're dealing either with "New Math" or 2 guys are posting twice )
Where I sit on the fence is pretty common knowledge around here (I'm periodically haranged about it (but it's good 'clean' fun)), but I want you to consider something: If it supposedly doesn't work, how come you can pick up an H22 clip from any JDM vendor which includes an lsd auto...........

P

 

??

 

My point is.... There's a s..t load of H22 Preludes (or cars mascarading as Preludes) in the Land of the Rising Sun that have automatics. And for that reason, it's a viable package; Depending what you want to do with it.
If you're looking for a more spirited Daily Driver it will work fine.
If, on the other hand you anticipate substatially raising the horsepower level at a later date, think H22 with a manual w/lsd.
You also might entertain the thought of a USDM H22. A slight penalty in horsepower, but with the reduced compression ratio will work on pump gas without having to buy 5.00/gal premium

 

If you really want to keep it auto and add a LOT of power, take either your F tranny or the H tranny and take it to Level 10 transmissions. They'd be able to install an LSD and build the tranny up to support any extra power. Just think, boosting at 10psi on an auto tranny

But heres the thing: Auto trannies eat up more power from the engine. They're not as versatile as manual, but also, a manual is a real problem for a lot of stop and go traffic. LSD is a good idea.

So if you want to make more power, youd need it built. But if you want to keep it relatively stock for mostly city driving, keep it stock

 

im def not keeping it stock

 

Either you'd have to get it built at Level 10 or keep it manual.

Autos are good for boost, but most people use manuals anyway.

 

you said "take it to Level 10 transmissions. They'd be able to install an LSD " ............. if i go auto im getting the h22 with lsd allredy installed....would it stilled need to be worked?..............http://www.jazzproparts.com/ProductD...tCode=H22aAuto

 

No i'm saying if you want to keep an F series tranny and get it built they could put it in so you wouldnt need to get an H22 with tranny, you could just turbocharge the F series.

Fs are better with boost than H's, so if you want to turbocharge i'd just stay with the F.

The H only gives you less than 10 tq more than the F, it wont be as noticeable at all as compared to a turbocharger.

Either do a manual or build an auto.

Fs are better with boost, but H's are better for all motor builds. Depends where you want to go.

 

my goal is like 280 hp....which way do u think i should go?......i think id rather boost an h even if a worse idea cuz i dont wana go threw all the trouble of pieseing together a turbo for my f and ur also starting off with more power in the h......i could go n/a with the h, but i dont have a steady income id take me for ever to get to my goal...

 

http://www.turbokits.com has several options. I'd stick with RevHard, but you also could piece one together over time, should cost about 2500 to have a properly built setup. I'd stick with the F for this, because the engines are cheap, can handle more boost, and you dont have to spend the money for an engine swap (another 2 grand).

 

well ive seen that site but theres no turbo thatl fit my acc.....but now that i think of it if i get the h22 im prob gona have troble fittin the prelude turbo in my acc's engine bay arent i?

 

Well correct me if i'm wrong, but if you've got a CB9, you've got an Accord Wagon. And using the 4th Gen accord engine, the turbo manifold off a Mitsu Eclipse bolts right up, from what I remember. I'd ask if they bolt up, because I believe they do, and that way, you just need that manifold and you're good to go, anyone could finish that up for you with some piping and whatnot.

You shouldnt have a problem fitting the H22 turbo setup in your Accord, it's been done, they've got big engine bays but why spend so much more money for something that's easily made up for with the turbo?

 

well its because if i turbo the f then itll give me around 200hp and im guessing its gona be really hard to get the 80 more hp to reach my goal ......and if i buy the h22 im allready at 190 and if i trubo that ill have somewhere around 270 if i just do the simple **** like exhaust intake pulleys, ect ect. i should be able to even pass my goal pretty easly............,,correct me if i wrong

 

HP doesnt really mean ****. Torque is what moves our car, and why a 200hp B series in an Accord won't do anything. A Honda B18C5 has 197 hp, teh same number basically as an H22. But the Type R has only 130 tq, not nearly enough necessary to move the car. An H has anywhere between 152 and 163 ft lbs and pulls throughout the powerband, unlike a B that needs to rev high to make more power.

The manifold fits, and you can get a bigger turbo and injectors. You can make huge amounts of power with just that manifold and different parts, such as intercooler, larger turbo, injectors, and tuning. The H if you're going to bother with boosting, is 2000 that could have been better spend elsewhere.

You can push 220 on your block easy, and you'll make comparable gains in torqe, i'd say between 180 and 200, which would really scoot it around.

 

all these posts are makin me want a turbo..dont mean to steal ur post but how many miles are too many to bother with a turbo?

 

No miles are too many for a turbo. Just do a compression and leakdown test to make sure you're still in good shape, then you can go for it. And if you have a problem, they're about 500 bucks....not too much, compared to a B or H series....

 

how do you do a leakdown test?

 

Compression is good to see if you're losing power in certain cylinders, but leakdown basically moves air through the engine to find the specific leaks and problems. Its best to get both done at a shop and compare them to the stock levels, then post them up in the FI forum to see what they think, they should know if it's still good.