Need assistance with a progress 27mm adjustable sway bar
man, i tried everything, and it still makes a nasty clunking noise everytime i hit a bump, if you have this sway bar on your car, please give me a hand, thanks in advance,
also i got the endlink kit from progress also. any suggestions?
also i got the endlink kit from progress also. any suggestions?
po.com has a few threads about this; the main culprit is the progress endlinks. They use cheap rod ends that develop play, and the clunk, over time. I bought a used bar with endlinks, never intended on using the progess endlinks, that had the loose rod end problem.
Part of my solution, aurora rod ends from http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...=3061. The progress setup uses the 7/16 by 20 right threaded ends.
Part of my solution, aurora rod ends from http://www.pegasusautoracing.c...=3061. The progress setup uses the 7/16 by 20 right threaded ends.
thanks for the links, after reading a bunch of articles, you are exactly right. do you have any pictures of the bars on your car? i would like to see if i have everything right
Wow, I have a Progress rear bar too, and I have the clunking. I always thought it was the sway bar hitting the LCA because you can see where it hits.
I will try the Progress end links and these rod ends.
I will try the Progress end links and these rod ends.
Just to add more information, the aurora rod end link I posted above is for the MW and MG ends. These ends are not the strongest, but are economical and should be strong enough for a sway bar application. The full aurora rod end catalog is available here: http://www.aurorabearing.com/2...g.pdf.
Also, instead of purchasing the progess rod ends you can contruct your own with a 7/16-20 threaded rod and matching nuts used with the rod ends above. I purchased the other parts at mcmaster-carr, if you would like the exact part number I can look them up. I forgot you would also need the bolts, nuts, and spacers to attach the end links to the bar and knuckle.
Also, instead of purchasing the progess rod ends you can contruct your own with a 7/16-20 threaded rod and matching nuts used with the rod ends above. I purchased the other parts at mcmaster-carr, if you would like the exact part number I can look them up. I forgot you would also need the bolts, nuts, and spacers to attach the end links to the bar and knuckle.
ludiferino if you don't mind, could you possibly post up all the parts numbers from mcmater-carr just for future reference, so that anybody in my situation will know what to do.
Thanks alot
Thanks alot
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Ok, here they are:
-94804 A335 - 316 Stainless Nuts (25), $8.42 (If anyone needs some PM me, I have a few extras left)
-92580 A110 - ASTM 193/B7 rated/graded threaded rod, must be cut to length (I will create another reply with the required length, this is will be the progess's endlink's length)
-You will also need 4 7/16 bolts, 4 7/16 locking nuts, 8 washers, and 8 spacers (next time I remove one of my rear wheels I will measure the bolt and spacer length and take a picture of the bolt, nut, spacer, rod end, and washer order)
-94804 A335 - 316 Stainless Nuts (25), $8.42 (If anyone needs some PM me, I have a few extras left)
-92580 A110 - ASTM 193/B7 rated/graded threaded rod, must be cut to length (I will create another reply with the required length, this is will be the progess's endlink's length)
-You will also need 4 7/16 bolts, 4 7/16 locking nuts, 8 washers, and 8 spacers (next time I remove one of my rear wheels I will measure the bolt and spacer length and take a picture of the bolt, nut, spacer, rod end, and washer order)
Here's a link for the Aurora rod ends--http://www.bakerprecision.com/auror6.htm
Part #AW7T. These are right hand threaded and teflon coated.
Part #AW7T. These are right hand threaded and teflon coated.
what are your springrates to matchup with that sway bar? that bar is THICK. i wouldnt be surprised if it ripped out of your subframe, unless you had really high spring rates.
The new brackets are plenty beefy and are attached to the frame with an extra screw per side. This bar will make the car feel different; I use it in the middle/middle position for daily driving, although the next time I do anything at the rear I will switch to inner/inner (stiffest setting).
Also, here are some pictures of the endlinks connected to the sway bar (I may have this completly wrong). You will notice I put some extra plastic tubing around my brake line, I feared the bolt would wear the line away. The extra tubing wasn't scuffed with ~1000 miles; with my stainless lines this issue never crossed my mind.


The next time I get under the rear of my car I will take more pictures to add to this thread.
Also, here are some pictures of the endlinks connected to the sway bar (I may have this completly wrong). You will notice I put some extra plastic tubing around my brake line, I feared the bolt would wear the line away. The extra tubing wasn't scuffed with ~1000 miles; with my stainless lines this issue never crossed my mind.


The next time I get under the rear of my car I will take more pictures to add to this thread.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eMpAtHy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what are your springrates to matchup with that sway bar? that bar is THICK. i wouldnt be surprised if it ripped out of your subframe, unless you had really high spring rates.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, the Progress bar comes with these niiice brackets--


Yeah, the Progress bar comes with these niiice brackets--


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