i was just wondering what has to be done to the motor to rev pass.. lets juss say.. around 9500 rpm - 10,000 rpm?

what kind of engine part has to be changed other than .. pistons, cams, retainers, valve springs.??

crankshaft?

 

first it needs to make power there,

if it doesn't it's a moot point.

 

Balance crank wouldn't hurt. Having everything balanced and blueprinted will ensure the engine will last more than one race. Aftermarket valvetrain. Am I missing anything?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr1244 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was just wondering what has to be done to the motor to rev pass.. lets juss say.. around 9500 rpm - 10,000 rpm?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just downshift from 4th to 2nd.
Works every time!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just downshift from 4th to 2nd.
Works every time! </TD></TR></TABLE>


H'mm come to think of it I miught have some video of that ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1GreyTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">first it needs to make power there,

if it doesn't it's a moot point.</TD></TR></TABLE>
ditto

need good valvesprings
lightened rotating assembly & balance and blueprint = helps

.... just some random question that popped into my head: what are the main reasons connecting rods bend/break?

 

crankshaft should be fine, it can take a lot. You would probably have to bore it out and get new rods, manifold gasket and cams that produce power that high. And a very high CR, around 13-15CR. 3" header and exhaust. Balance and blueprint everything and some high octance gas. Talk to Tony the Tiger.

 

ok.. so i got
ctr pistons = CR 12.0 - 12.5 :1
RM M22xx cams, RM valve trains.(retainers, valve springs)
arp rod bolts.
stock crankshaft, rods.

so.. i need both crankshaft and rods to rev high safely?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just downshift from 4th to 2nd.
Works every time! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I knew someone would brign that one out sooner or later haha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr1244 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok.. so i got
ctr pistons = CR 12.0 - 12.5 :1
RM M22xx cams, RM valve trains.(retainers, valve springs)
arp rod bolts.
stock crankshaft, rods.

so.. i need both crankshaft and rods to rev high safely?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right on...let us know how it turns out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda-Tech Is Fading &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Right on...let us know how it turns out </TD></TR></TABLE>

sure i will

 

Why do you want to rev that high?

You won't make power up there with M22's...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why do you want to rev that high?

You won't make power up there with M22's...</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah.. actually my chip thing.. from RM is already set @ 9000 redline.

but i was just curious what kind of thing has to be done to achieve HIGH reving.

not that i'm actually gonna rev pass 10K+ .. but i wish i could

 

buy a standalone, turn the rev limiter off, and stomp the gas....

 

one thing you could try doing is spending a lot of money on a full spoon 14,000 rpm race engine...haha but that'll cost u a **** load of money

 

Hmmm... if I were building a B18C5 for the sole purpose of revving the **** out of it here's what I'd do:

86mm Sleeves
Knife-edged B16 crank
Custom reduced compression height pistons (maybe 12:1 CR)
Custom titanium rods to work with the short stroke and short pistons
Shitloads of headwork with high rate valvesprings and aluminum retainers
At least 52mm ITB's
Custom cams
Custom long tube header

and naturally have the thing balanced to all hell.

 

i have a suggestion.. why dont u try mis shifting... redline 3rd gear and instead of going to 4th go to 2nd

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr1244 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok.. so i got
ctr pistons = CR 12.0 - 12.5 :1
stock rods.

so.. i need both crankshaft and rods to rev high safely?</TD></TR></TABLE>


I don't think that list would cut it to make it a reliable 10k wonderspinner. I think a lot of people forget that as rpms rise, the stresses are exponential. I don't have the exact numbers, but to choose a piston like the CTR (heaviest Bseries VTEC slug) would not be wise if you want to spin it to "10k everyday" and expect "decent" longevity.

I would start at the rotating assembly - lightweight pistons, lightweight rods....stock crank is fine.... and perhaps another girdle....

 

I dont understand, what exactly do you want? Do you want to have a 9500 redline? Or do you just want to rev that high for fun? If you want to have your redline at 9500, your set up is NOT going to make it. But, if you want to rev up to 9500 it should be fine as long as you have aftermarket pistons, rods and valvesprings and dont drive it like you stole it.

And when I say your set up will not make it that high, I mean your not going to make power.

 

What I would do....

Sell the C5 block and buy a B18B block.

Have C5 crank knife-edged, tear dropped, and balanced by Castillo's.

Put C5 crank into B18B block.

Have some custom Cunningham titanium rods made.

86mm bore 11.5:1 CP Pistons

RLZ headwork

Crane roller rocker arms, custom cams

RMF or SMSP header

custom Jenvey ITB's

AEM EMS

Fuel cutoff 200 RPM above peak power

EDIT: To above post. Stock bottom end is good, but replace the rod bolts. M22's can make power that high, but not peak power.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Aquafina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sell the C5 block and buy a B18B block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Somehow I fail to see the logic in this right here. You'd be sleeving anyway (86mm bore) and then having the LS block would just mean finding a crank girdle and running an external oil line.

Unless of course you sold the C5 block for a ton of money and picked up the LS for cheap.

 

Who's got that oooold video of SGT revving to 12k or so?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zygspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Just downshift from 4th to 2nd.
Works every time! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hell yeah... that was going to be my recommendation!

 

B18B is better for resleeving.

Run the B18B caps, no girdle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Splat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Who's got that oooold video of SGT revving to 12k or so?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not sure, but I ran across a night pic of him doing a clutch job in the Walmart parking lot during Expo 2. Hmmm.