I have a 94 turbo sohc vtec. I have done a lot under the hood. The list is enormous. For complete stats and pic go here...http://www.mautofied.com/default.asp...PKID=100018887. I have swapped the radiator, fluidyne, and I still overheat after about 20 minutes on the highway. My car is an auto so it is hard to stay out of boost on the highway, but it should not be getting that hot. I have replaced and upgraded the thermostat, and the fan runs is working. I have done a huge amount of research as well as read every post and every forum available. Still, I cannot figure out how the car is overheating. Any suggestions.

 

Get ARP headstuds and a new Y8 HG, you should be good then.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Jizzmaster Zero &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get ARP headstuds and a new Y8 HG, you should be good then.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That will only apply if he is having a headlift issue which will show up as oil in the coolant or loosing coolant.

Did it start overheating after yo installed the new rad? If yes, you have air in the cooling system Run the car with the rad cap until the air bubbles stop appearing in the rad fill hole.

 

does your coolant resevoir bottle fill up ?

 

i would say that you have headlift problem. i have had same set up and the same problem but it was on the street. get some arp head studs and cometic headgast and it will go away. get a low compression one tho it will be lil better.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does your coolant resevoir bottle fill up ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
and never go down? if so thats headlift or bad head gasket.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e jay one &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and never go down? if so thats headlift or bad head gasket. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Could be both. It was for me. Just fix both. Don't get a cometic HG, get a Y8 one.

 

Thanks for all the quick replies.

I just had the engine completely rebuilt and used the heavier hg. I dont think that I am having a problem with that, especially with under 1000 miles on the engine. I never thought about the air bubble until just the other day when I was reading another response. That is definitely a possibility. I am not loosing coolant and the fluid is never contaminated when I check. I am about 200 miles away from the car right now but I am going home this weekend. I will uncap that bitch and see if that could be the end of my constant problem.

 

Oh yeah,

The coolant reservoir filled up the first time on the highway with the stock radiator but not after the fluidyne was installed.

 

bad water pump ?

 

if it filled up its either a bad rad. cap or your head is lifting and youll needs some arp studs and y8 gasket with copper spray on it.

 

is you turbo watercooled as well? i noticed mine would over heat a bit in the begining because of a leak in a fitting. i fixed it and never had a problem. try thr guys in the F/I forum to see what they say.

 

Well, the overflow bottle did not fill up after I put the new rad on. I figure it is just bubbles in the line. I really dont think that it could be the head lifting, because if it was, wouldnt it overheat when Im getting on it around town. f/i forum? It is very possible that the cap could have been bad on the old one. The radiator was 11 years old and when I took it out, it had holes in it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kmalikai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, the overflow bottle did not fill up after I put the new rad on. I figure it is just bubbles in the line. I really dont think that it could be the head lifting, because if it was, wouldnt it overheat when Im getting on it around town. f/i forum? It is very possible that the cap could have been bad on the old one. The radiator was 11 years old and when I took it out, it had holes in it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I hate to ask it, but the link isn't working for me. What psi are you running and is the inter cooler to small for your application?

 

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2114466/1 or http://www.mautofied.com/defau...18887.

10 around town and 21-24 max. My radiator is rather large.

Dont remember the exact dimensions but you may be able to see it in the pics if they work.

 

holy ****, 11k, what a steal
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kmalikai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Up for grabs is a 94 Honda Civic Vtec Turbo.11,000.00 obo. I have had the car for about two years. Cant really say a daily driver because I dont drive in the snow or rain. Garage kept. Only drove for 4 months of the two year period I owned it. The car was tuned by slowmotion motorsports in columbus. Pulled 330 horse @ 20lbs. I dont want to get rid of my car right now but I attend college nine months out of the year. Here are my specs and link:http://www.mautofied.com/default.asp...PKID=100018887
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

radiator was a typo, meant to put i/c.

 

I just had a little food for thought. I am home with my car this weekend and I ran the fluidyne with the cap off and it did not bubble, nor did the fan come on. When i put the cap on, the fan then eventually came on. The more that I look at the vehicle, the more I notice that there is no place for the radiator to draw air from. I have a tranny cooler in front of the radiator which is partially behind the actual bumper of the car, which the other half is behind the intercooler. After the bumper cover, this leaves no direct airflow onto radiator. This is obviously adding to if not causing the problem. Which leads me to my question: Could you run another radiator, say the old one if it is not bad, along with the new one to cause more movement, thus cooling of the water. Another thought, other than cutting a hole in my bumper cover, why couldnt you coil a piece of flexible copper tubing or even create a gill system like a tranny cooler out of copper tubing that went after the rad and between the block causing the fluid to move twice the distance before entering the block, thus cooling greatly cooling it? This would require more fluid, but it would still have a greater time to cool before re-entering the engine. This would cause the engine to not rely on airflow for cooling anymore, but to rely on distance as the dampener. Do you think that im fuc.in nuts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kmalikai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> f/i forum?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Forced Induction forum.

-Red

 

Try running without the tranny cooler or putting the tranny cooler in another place in the bay and run the car again to see if that fixes it. If that fixes it you're going to have to find a new home for the tranny cooler.