type r sway bar and BSQ kit question
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2005
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From: fountain valley, ca, united states
I just finished installing my type r sway bar, left all the tools at my friend's house and drove home. It's 1:46 am and I just reread the instruction on BSQ's site and it says to "Lower car and torque the endlink bolts to the manufacture's specifications"
I forgot that part and torqued ithe endlink bolts before lowering the car. I have to go to work tomorrow. Do I need to undo the endlink bolts and retorque them or is it okay to leave it the way it is? Also would leaving it the way it is and driving the car around cause any damage?
thanks.
I forgot that part and torqued ithe endlink bolts before lowering the car. I have to go to work tomorrow. Do I need to undo the endlink bolts and retorque them or is it okay to leave it the way it is? Also would leaving it the way it is and driving the car around cause any damage?
thanks.
The tightening of the bolts after the car is lowered back on the ground is to make sure that the swaybar isn't bound. I would recommend loosening the bolts up with the car on the ground and then just re-tightening/torqueing them.
also, check the angle of yr endlinks. one of the flaws in bolting onto the subframe directly is that it moves the swaybar closer towards the front of the car, therefore will cause an angle on the endlinks which will make yr ride stiffer than it should be. One way to fix the problems is just to add washerso n the endlink bolts to bring it back to perpendicular. Stock ITR has different LCA to compensate for this .
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Joined: May 2005
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From: fountain valley, ca, united states
BSQ: I gave it some thought and it appears to me that the endlink bolts just clamp the rubber and the rubber claps the end of the sway bar. In essence, the sway bar ends should be able to freely rotate around the endlink bushings, which makes torquing the endlink bolts while the car is jacked up or when the car is down not matter since the bar would be able to rotate anyway.
mingbling96: sorry, i didn't understand what you said about the angles, but I'll go look at it tomorrow. As for appearing to have a stiffer ride, isn't that a good thing or could that damage something else because of stress? And yes, i did notice that it was a bit stiffer, or it could be my imagination. Man, making sharp turns is soooo fun now. thanks.
mingbling96: sorry, i didn't understand what you said about the angles, but I'll go look at it tomorrow. As for appearing to have a stiffer ride, isn't that a good thing or could that damage something else because of stress? And yes, i did notice that it was a bit stiffer, or it could be my imagination. Man, making sharp turns is soooo fun now. thanks.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BSQ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The tightening of the bolts after the car is lowered back on the ground is to make sure that the swaybar isn't bound. I would recommend loosening the bolts up with the car on the ground and then just re-tightening/torqueing them.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by no2unenolife »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd loosen and retighten</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by no2unenolife »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd loosen and retighten</TD></TR></TABLE>
How are you liking the type-r sway witht he BSQ mounting kit?
I have a 97 LS that I am going to install some gc/koni's that I have here at home. I'm definitely picking up a type-r sway with the BSQ mounting kit in the future.
How was the difference compared to the stock?
I have a 97 LS that I am going to install some gc/koni's that I have here at home. I'm definitely picking up a type-r sway with the BSQ mounting kit in the future.
How was the difference compared to the stock?
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2005
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From: fountain valley, ca, united states
I'm still on stock springs. Planning to upgrade soon. Reason I did the sway bar first was because it was cheap for a major upgrade. So far, with the DIY trunk floor brace, DIY lower tie bar, and the type R sway bar, it is a world of a difference compared to stock. I wasn't able to feel much difference with the tie and floor brace except for less squeeking in the back. With the type R sway bar on, the car felt like a different car immediately at the first turn. I was able to make really sharp turns and speed up the looping freeway on ramps without feeling like my car would flip over like it was before the upgrade. Also changing lanes feel alot safer because the car doesn't roll back and forth as much as before.
sway bar upgrade= more fun although my tires are goign to go soon
sway bar upgrade= more fun although my tires are goign to go soon
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2005
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From: fountain valley, ca, united states
mingbling96: You're right, thanks for the link.
Summary: From that thread, mounting the type r sway bar directly to the sub frame with bsq kit makes the endlinks push forward and have a less than ideal angle of about 70 (as oppose to 90) degrees to the ground, which causes the sway bar to be active even when going straight, hence the increased stiffness, and causes the eventual break down of the end links.
STIBungy proposed that it would be better to fix this problem with adding washers to both the bracket that holds the sway bar to bring it toward the back a little more and the end links plus new bolt to bring it forward. Is that solution better than just only adding washers to the endinks to make it 90 degrees? I don't want to risk subframe tear out by bringing the sway bar out further from the frame.
Has anyone not tried or tried these solutions and what were the effects?
BSQ?
Since i'm on stock springs, it feels kinda nice with the stiffer back.
Summary: From that thread, mounting the type r sway bar directly to the sub frame with bsq kit makes the endlinks push forward and have a less than ideal angle of about 70 (as oppose to 90) degrees to the ground, which causes the sway bar to be active even when going straight, hence the increased stiffness, and causes the eventual break down of the end links.
STIBungy proposed that it would be better to fix this problem with adding washers to both the bracket that holds the sway bar to bring it toward the back a little more and the end links plus new bolt to bring it forward. Is that solution better than just only adding washers to the endinks to make it 90 degrees? I don't want to risk subframe tear out by bringing the sway bar out further from the frame.
Has anyone not tried or tried these solutions and what were the effects?
BSQ?
Since i'm on stock springs, it feels kinda nice with the stiffer back.
i gotten a longer bolt (grade 8, and i think 70mm) and about 5-6 washers to bring it out. Its been on there for over 2 yrs i think, and i take corners like crazy often, and no sign of any stress on the suspension parts. If i have time, I'll take a picture and show you guys. I think if you choose to use washers from the subframe, that's almost the same setup as the stock rear sway bar. The reason why honda didnt' mount a non-ITR sway bar directly to the subframe because they need that bracket to move the swaybar a little off the subframe. If you're adding washers in the subframe, you'd just have almost the same setup as using the old brackets.
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