So I got my b16 rebuilt about 4,000 miles ago, 8.5:1 CP pistons, Eagle Rods and I am running 14 psi currently. For a couple of weeks now my valves have started ticking and it sounded like they just needed to be adjusted a little. It can be heard at the loudest in the morning when I warm my car up (when it gets cool it gets quieter). Only at idle is it really noticable, when driving you can kind of hear it but not to much.

I have tried to keep out of htting boost for awhile (at least high rpms) and everything still ticks like it does. But when ever I open it up into the 8K rpm range, the ticking will almost goes away when I come back down to an idle. I don't get. Anyone with any suggestions.


Modified by Dialectic at 11:46 AM 9/29/2005

 

LMA (Lost Motion Assemblies) going bad maybe?

try readjusting your valves?

 

...could this be a rod knocking?? could u have spun a bearing? ... the power at anything over idle might force that bearing to move, and u wouldnt hear the knock?

 

If it gets quieter as the car gets warmer, it might be piston slap....Just let your car warm up before you get on it.......but I am no expert....

 

I've always had this noise as well.

 

mine goes away when its warm , piston slap is your friend lol

if it still ticks when its warm do a valve adjustment.

 

up

 

wrist pin noise sounds exactly like your valves are out of adjustment.

 

Thanks a lot for the input gentlemen. And if I may ask another question: Does high reving put more stress on the head (vales, retainers, springs) or the rods themselves? I would like to rev to 9k, but my valve train is stock. Is there a real problem with me doing this? My head and valves were fine during the tear down and rebuild and had reved previously on my Vortech setup to 9k for a good while before the turbo. Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wrist pin noise sounds exactly like your valves are out of adjustment. </TD></TR></TABLE>
That's exactly what I was thinking. A buddy of mine heard the same noise, but it was his pistons slapping the cylinder walls. He found out that it was because the crank wasn't sitting square in the block. Which meant new block, because it was to far out to fix with a line bore.

 

stock valvetrain should only be good to stock redline.

upgrade your valvetrain if you're going to be revving that high, you wouldn't want a valve dropping