ok i am replacing the engine in my 91 hatch i start the process of taking off the axles. the main 32 mm nut that holds the half shaft to the hub was stuck pretty good and without air tools was not going to budge so i started to take off the LCA first bolt came out fine but the second one(the one that hooks into the subframe snaped off at the head. now i have half a bolt that will not move so how do i get that out and also i have the other side to take care of yet. what should i do??


Modified by classciv at 12:16 PM 9/29/2005

 

looks like you're gonna have to drill it out. good luck.

 

how can i drill it out, the subframe has a welded in nut on the oposide side that has the threds in it, i will destroy that if i drill

or could i just cut those bolts out and replace them with a nut and bolt set? would that still be safe to do? i am open to anything

 

I have had this problem (well, similar) too and it wasn't easy.

That bushing had frozen to the bolt in my car and I couldn't get the LCA out.

Ended up talking a sawzall and some careful cutting (using several blades in the process) to chop the bolt in between the frame portion and the LCA bushing.

I then had enough bolt sticking through the nut to grab with a vise-grip and get the s-o-b out.

Ugh, bad memories.

 

im pretty sure that is what happend, so if if cut a little of that bushing it will not matter to much? thanks for all the info guys


Modified by classciv at 9:56 PM 9/29/2005

 

bump cause I have the same problem but on my brothers Accord. I was thinking off putting a torch to it. The biggest problem is the fact its on the front right by the transmission and I have about 4 inches to work with. I think I"ll probably end up take off 2 engine mounts lifting the tranny out of the way and then attacking it with a drill.

But I will start off with a torch

-Shane

 

should i still try to cut it though i dont really have much to work with because the head broke off so even if i torch it i wont have anything to twist it out

 

I would try to drill it out or ez way (those bolts extractors tools).

In worst case scenario I would go with cutting it out.

-Shane

 

i think im gonna have to cut, then drill

 

you're going to have to cut on either side of the bushing, but don't cut into the subframe. you'll have to replace the bushing, they're like 17 bucks from the dealer or something, and need to be pressed in. you should be able to get the rest of the bolt out from the welded nut with vise-grips.

then make sure you replace the bolt through with the same one, not a hardware store one. they're grade 10.8 for a reason.

when you put the bolt in, use anti-sieze. honda should have used this at the factory, but didn't, and therefore the thing seized into the bushing.
good luck

 

^^ good advice ^^ I think I will go with this idea.

 

If you go the sawzall route, make sure to have plenty of blades on hand. That bolt and bushing is made of some seriously hard steel.

If you need help with bushing removal, I have a neat method that doesn't require a press...IM if you would like details.

 

a pic would help. even a crappy camera phone one. Depending on what bolt you are talking about you can either use some vice grips and take it out that way or if u can't have access to it, get a dremel with a wheel cutting attachment and make the deepest notch in it you can and take a screw driver to it. of course soak it in wd40 or something so it will be penitrated.

 

yes i had the same problem i bent the part around the control arm out just enough to slip a sawsall blade in and cut both sides, then drilled the portion out left in the welded in nut (with a drill bit slightly smaller) then got the rest of the junk out of the nut and retapped it, in the rear i just cut the nut off and am using a locking nut in its place

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes i had the same problem i bent the part around the control arm out just enough to slip a sawsall blade in and cut both sides, then drilled the portion out left in the welded in nut (with a drill bit slightly smaller) then got the rest of the junk out of the nut and retapped it, in the rear i just cut the nut off and am using a locking nut in its place</TD></TR></TABLE>

so it is still safe to just run a bolt through(not a hardware store bolt) and put a regular nut on in place of the welded on nut?

 

I'd try to use a locking nut (nylon insert) or some threadlocker if you decide to get rid of the nut, just to be safe.

You will also want to use class 10 or grade 8 type (heavy duty) bolt in this application, but I think someone said that already...