So how much power have you seen out of B series GT28R setups?
And I don't mean the RS...
I am looking to see if anyone has made the claimed "300whp" capability with this turbo. A search didn't help really. Most of the threads I found were people asking if the turbo was right for them.
I am just trying to get a feel for the real world capability of the turbo, and what its power band looks like...thus
Any graphs that you have...post them up!
TIA,
Bryson
I am looking to see if anyone has made the claimed "300whp" capability with this turbo. A search didn't help really. Most of the threads I found were people asking if the turbo was right for them.
I am just trying to get a feel for the real world capability of the turbo, and what its power band looks like...thus
Any graphs that you have...post them up!
TIA,
Bryson
No he ran a gt28rs and then a gt2871r. I also did alot of searches on this turbo, I haven't seen many b series running it. Not sure if its relevent, but it's the same turbo as the stock Silvia S15 turbo, so the nissan guys claim it makes 300whp at least, though on the sr20dett's, and that's pretty well proven.
isnt the gt28r what comes in the edlebrock sohc turbo kits??
if it is i have seen a little over 300hp on that turbo
if it is i have seen a little over 300hp on that turbo
we tuned a couple nissans with this turbo and made just over 300hp(313 to be exact). we have a honda to tune(possibly this week coming) with this turbo to tune so i can let you know the numbers next week sometime.
You cannot even come close to comparing the power out of an SR to a B-Series with the same turbo.
It will be totally different.
It will be totally different.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DontBlink »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we tuned a couple nissans with this turbo and made just over 300hp(313 to be exact). we have a honda to tune(possibly this week coming) with this turbo to tune so i can let you know the numbers next week sometime.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that WHP? And how much torque? how much boost were those #'s attained?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You cannot even come close to comparing the power out of an SR to a B-Series with the same turbo.
It will be totally different.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Indeed.
What I'm more concerned about however, is the overall look of the power band. I will be reving my B16 to 9k, and I don't want it falling off up top.
Thanks for the posts guys...
Is that WHP? And how much torque? how much boost were those #'s attained?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by White Smoke »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You cannot even come close to comparing the power out of an SR to a B-Series with the same turbo.
It will be totally different.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Indeed.
What I'm more concerned about however, is the overall look of the power band. I will be reving my B16 to 9k, and I don't want it falling off up top.
Thanks for the posts guys...
the gt28r on the d16 started to fall off hard after 8000... ported head and crower turbo cam. it wouldnt hold the boost (around 18 or 20 if i remember right.. its been a while)
its gona be hard to make 300hp to 9000 rpms with a t28 turbine.
its gona be hard to make 300hp to 9000 rpms with a t28 turbine.
no, i dont... i did that car about 2 years ago.
personally... for something like that, id go with a gt3071r... the t3 gt28rs will do it, but the power will start to fall off.
personally... for something like that, id go with a gt3071r... the t3 gt28rs will do it, but the power will start to fall off.
im doing the same thing, stock d16y8 ex motor stock cam too with a 28R (not rs)
i let a friend borrow my daily driver civic and it got totalled by an uninsured driveer so im trying to build a budget car since im fuct... should be a fun d series
Modified by Full-Race Geoff at 9:43 PM 10/2/2005
i let a friend borrow my daily driver civic and it got totalled by an uninsured driveer so im trying to build a budget car since im fuct... should be a fun d series
Modified by Full-Race Geoff at 9:43 PM 10/2/2005
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i let a friend borrow my daily driver civic and it got totalled by an uninsured driveer so im trying to build a budget car since im fuct... should be a fun d series </TD></TR></TABLE>
Geoff, you should have Uninsured Motorist Coverage under your Liability portion of your Insurance UNLESS the states you have your insurance in gave you an option of declining it which is very rare sir.
i let a friend borrow my daily driver civic and it got totalled by an uninsured driveer so im trying to build a budget car since im fuct... should be a fun d series </TD></TR></TABLE>
Geoff, you should have Uninsured Motorist Coverage under your Liability portion of your Insurance UNLESS the states you have your insurance in gave you an option of declining it which is very rare sir.
IMHO skip the small ball bearing turbo BS, something like a T3 60-trim would likely perform nearly as good as a GT28R at like 1/3 the price.
Stock B16A SIR2. EL manifold, 2.5" dp to 2.5 tanabe mid section, GT28R on ~10psi falling to like 8.5 at redline. I could never figure out why boost fell off on the top end the way it did. I was running a mbc(which I have run on tons of other setups with no problem) with it, but would have liked to get an AVC-R or something at the time.
This motor blew up like a week after this dyno which is why I think it put down such low numbers. The coil I think was the culprit. It was causing problems when the car was N/A for as long as I had the swap and I could never figure it out. The car would detonate under heavy load(it was N/A too) right between 2200 and 2500. I pulled timing, dumped fuel, switched plugs, cap, rotor, wires, to no avail. First boost pull the coil went out. Anyway, it was decently quick but I know this setup would have put down more on another motor. A/F on my street log went to 11:1 at 8K. I didn't have a chance to lean it out to 11.5:1 before the dyno.
This motor blew up like a week after this dyno which is why I think it put down such low numbers. The coil I think was the culprit. It was causing problems when the car was N/A for as long as I had the swap and I could never figure it out. The car would detonate under heavy load(it was N/A too) right between 2200 and 2500. I pulled timing, dumped fuel, switched plugs, cap, rotor, wires, to no avail. First boost pull the coil went out. Anyway, it was decently quick but I know this setup would have put down more on another motor. A/F on my street log went to 11:1 at 8K. I didn't have a chance to lean it out to 11.5:1 before the dyno.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you obviously havent driven a car with those 2 turbos ... night and day difference</TD></TR></TABLE>
Could you elaborate on that a little bit? I'm just wondering what to expect if I choose this turbo for my B16 setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgencivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock B16A SIR2. EL manifold, 2.5" dp to 2.5 tanabe mid section, GT28R on ~10psi falling to like 8.5 at redline. I could never figure out why boost fell off on the top end the way it did. I was running a mbc(which I have run on tons of other setups with no problem) with it, but would have liked to get an AVC-R or something at the time.
This motor blew up like a week after this dyno which is why I think it put down such low numbers. The coil I think was the culprit. It was causing problems when the car was N/A for as long as I had the swap and I could never figure it out. The car would detonate under heavy load(it was N/A too) right between 2200 and 2500. I pulled timing, dumped fuel, switched plugs, cap, rotor, wires, to no avail. First boost pull the coil went out. Anyway, it was decently quick but I know this setup would have put down more on another motor. A/F on my street log went to 11:1 at 8K. I didn't have a chance to lean it out to 11.5:1 before the dyno.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I like this graph! That power band is exactly what I'm looking for, maybe with a little more top end. I wonder what kind of results some nice N/A cams and this turbo would produce...hrmm.
Could you elaborate on that a little bit? I'm just wondering what to expect if I choose this turbo for my B16 setup.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgencivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock B16A SIR2. EL manifold, 2.5" dp to 2.5 tanabe mid section, GT28R on ~10psi falling to like 8.5 at redline. I could never figure out why boost fell off on the top end the way it did. I was running a mbc(which I have run on tons of other setups with no problem) with it, but would have liked to get an AVC-R or something at the time.
This motor blew up like a week after this dyno which is why I think it put down such low numbers. The coil I think was the culprit. It was causing problems when the car was N/A for as long as I had the swap and I could never figure it out. The car would detonate under heavy load(it was N/A too) right between 2200 and 2500. I pulled timing, dumped fuel, switched plugs, cap, rotor, wires, to no avail. First boost pull the coil went out. Anyway, it was decently quick but I know this setup would have put down more on another motor. A/F on my street log went to 11:1 at 8K. I didn't have a chance to lean it out to 11.5:1 before the dyno.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I like this graph! That power band is exactly what I'm looking for, maybe with a little more top end. I wonder what kind of results some nice N/A cams and this turbo would produce...hrmm.
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