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installing prestige aps996a into 92-95 civic

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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 02:55 PM
  #1  
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From: salem, or, usa
Default installing prestige aps996a into 92-95 civic

I am not a noob to wiring, it is just that the instructions are not very clear to me, and that iw why i am here. For clarity. In the wiring scematics, it has ign 1 ing 2 and bat1 and bat2? What is meant by this? Does this mean that i have to find 2 different sources for each, or is is 1 constant for each and one for when the key is turned? And if i am not going to be using the remote start, door locks, or anything other than the hood, trunk and shock sensor. do i need to use any relays, or is it pretty much straight forward wiring? Any input would be great. Having a pro install it isn't an option right now.
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 05:24 PM
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Default Re: installing prestige aps996a into 92-95 civic (mattssi)

Your going to need to use a relay if your alarm has a starter kill. Where did you get your schematic from? Here is the proper schematic for a 93 Civic.

12volts white + brn conn abv fusebox
Starter black/white + brn conn abv fusebox
Ignition black/yellow + brn conn abv fusebox
Power Lock green/white - in drivers door
Notes: Door lock module in door above the speaker. the wires can also be found at the anti-theft if equiped.
Power Unlock green/red - in drivers door
Notes: Door lock module in door above the speaker. the wires can also be found at the anti-theft if equiped.
Lock Motor
Unlock Motor
Disarm Defeat
Parking Lights+ red/black grn plug top of f-box
Parking Lights- white/black anti-theft module
Notes: the anti-theft module is located under the drivers seat. only some models are equiped with anti-theft.
Hazards
Turn Signal(L)
Turn Signal(R)
Door Trigger lt green/red - driver kick panel
Dome Supervision
Trunk/Hatch Pin grn/blk 2 silv dots - blu conn above fusebox


Sorry its all crammed together but you should be able to gather from it what you need.
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 07:20 PM
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The Bat1 and 2 can be hooked together and ran to your constant wire underneath your dash. And as far as the ignition wires go, if you are not using the remote start feature, you shouldn't need to hook thos up. Godd luck.
Nate
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 04:23 AM
  #4  
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You'll need to hook up at least one ignition wire, since that's the wire that resets the alarm (after it's been triggered) when you turn the key....
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 05:39 AM
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Some cars, well alot of cars, have multiple ignition wires that need to be powered up in order for the car to start. That is why there are multiple ignition wires. As previously stated you can and should tie the two constant wires together.
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 08:01 AM
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Default Re: (MLD211)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MLD211 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some cars, well alot of cars, have multiple ignition wires that need to be powered up in order for the car to start. That is why there are multiple ignition wires. As previously stated you can and should tie the two constant wires together. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well doesn't honda have a few differn't ignition wires. Like the accesory, start and crank? Do i just hook the ign wire to the acc position wire? Is that worded right? I don't think that i need to use a starter kill as i already have a injector kill for each injector. That would make the would be theif scratch there head as to why it will not start. But just for questions sake, doesn't the alarm come with the relay for the starter kill. Or do you have to get the seperatly? Thanks guys, you are really helpful..
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 08:57 AM
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Default Re: (mattssi)

92 to 95 Civics have 1 ign, wire, [black/yellow] you will not need the ign.2 wire on the alarm/starter, and you may not need both the batt. 1 and 2 wires, as on most A/S one of the batt. wires is for remote start only, but I am not sure about that model, so connect them both, you will also not need the starter or acc. outputs from the A/S, or tach or most other remote start wiring, although I would wire the brake just in case you trigger the remote start or stop and go by mistake, and because it's not hooked up you can't tell easley, [would not be a problem at night, lights would be on or flashing] but stepping on the brake would shut it down.
If you are not using the remote start, and you just want a basic alarm, why not just get a basic alarm? 94
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 09:26 AM
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AWESOME EBAY DEAL. I got this one for less than a cheapie alarm, though what the heck. Eventually I will use the door lock and power window features, but as of right now, I do not have those options on the car. And if you are wondering, Auto theft is 3 time the national average in my fair city. And 3 months ago my last hatch was ripped off. So i am not taking any chances.
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 10:48 AM
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Default Re: (mattssi)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattssi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AWESOME EBAY DEAL. I got this one for less than a cheapie alarm, though what the heck. Eventually I will use the door lock and power window features, but as of right now, I do not have those options on the car. And if you are wondering, Auto theft is 3 time the national average in my fair city. And 3 months ago my last hatch was ripped off. So i am not taking any chances. </TD></TR></TABLE>OIC, then just remove the wires you don't need, [depin them don't cut them, you may need them later] or do what I have done for a few customers, wire the remote start but don't hook up the start output wire, [remove it] from the R/S unit, [car can't be started by remote] that way you can use the stop and go feature or turbo cool down, [leave the car running without the key in it] but never accidentally start it in gear. 94
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Old Sep 28, 2005 | 12:39 PM
  #10  
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Default Re: (fcm)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OIC, then just remove the wires you don't need, [depin them don't cut them, you may need them later] or do what I have done for a few customers, wire the remote start but don't hook up the start output wire, [remove it] from the R/S unit, [car can't be started by remote] that way you can use the stop and go feature or turbo cool down, [leave the car running without the key in it] but never accidentally start it in gear. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>
now it is good you mentioned that. I have a greddy turbo timer that i will be installing as well, just at a later date. Is there a way i can have the car alarm arm after the timer is done running its time? I think i have seen that before. I know this would be asking alot, but is there anybody here with time to kill that feels like drawing up some wiring diagram for installing a car alarm onto a civic like this. When i was searching for a thread on how to do this i was amazed how many people have the same questions. Maybe we could make this thread something to refer to. or have an official thread on installing a car alarm onto a EG?
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Old Sep 29, 2005 | 10:32 AM
  #11  
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Default Re: (mattssi)

Anything can be done, but if you have a turbo timer in the alarm/remote start, you don't need to do anything, it's all done inside the units brain.
If however you want to use the Greddy, then the A/S would have to have an input that can be wired to "tell" it that the motor is running and to ignore the ign. and the impact sen., [like my Alpine alarm has] but because its an A/S and if it has a turbo timer, then I don't think it has the input wire, [it wouldn't need it], then the Greddy would need an output "status" wire an independent lead that is energized when the timer is on, you can use that to trigger relays to "open" the ign. circuit and the impact sen. circuit of the alarm when the Greddy is running the car, if there is no "status" wire at least one more relay would have to be installed on the ign. output of the Greddy so it could be used as a "status" line and ign. output, but only [open] the ign. input to the alarm when the Greddy is on and not when the cars ign. is on.
A lot of relays an d work, and unnecessary if the A/S has a turbo timer in it already 94
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Old Sep 29, 2005 | 12:07 PM
  #12  
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Default Re: (fcm)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anything can be done, but if you have a turbo timer in the alarm/remote start, you don't need to do anything, it's all done inside the units brain.
If however you want to use the Greddy, then the A/S would have to have an input that can be wired to "tell" it that the motor is running and to ignore the ign. and the impact sen., [like my Alpine alarm has] but because its an A/S and if it has a turbo timer, then I don't think it has the input wire, [it wouldn't need it], then the Greddy would need an output "status" wire an independent lead that is energized when the timer is on, you can use that to trigger relays to "open" the ign. circuit and the impact sen. circuit of the alarm when the Greddy is running the car, if there is no "status" wire at least one more relay would have to be installed on the ign. output of the Greddy so it could be used as a "status" line and ign. output, but only [open] the ign. input to the alarm when the Greddy is on and not when the cars ign. is on.
A lot of relays an d work, and unnecessary if the A/S has a turbo timer in it already 94</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wasn't sure whether or not mine had a turbo timer in it already? does it? I think i am going to just have somebody install this alarm. I am going to wait until I have installed power windows and door locks.
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