Im running omni full coilovers, and if you can tell, my car is very low, the tire is slightly tucked with no wheel gap whatsoever. The inner inch of my tires are getting worn much faster than the outside. To prolong the tread life of my tires, do you suggest getting an omni camber kit or just getting an alignment, I hear toe tears your tires much more than camber does.


Modified by JeFFFFFFFrey91 at 3:43 PM 9/27/2005

 

Raise your car up.

 

just do whatever it takes to stay that low....looks dope man.

Im in the same delima....but figure im gonna need both the alignment and the camber kit.....

 

There is alot of company out there that offers camber kit other then Omni Power, like Sprint Suspension, Ingalls, Progress....

But yea, get a camber kit! Save some money for new tires and better tractions

 

you have pics of your car? i have the omni too and mine is max out in the back and the front with-out affecting the travel. I have the sport and it is very stiff. Maybe i should of gone with the street.

 

It's worth it to spend the money on camber kit now rather than spend tons of money on tires over the next little while.

My car is only lowered an inch with Tanabe Sustec and I was already getting camber problems over the course of a year.

 

i hear bad toe can cause tire wear faster than bad camber. To be safe I would spend the money on a omnipower camber kit becasue it also comes with bolts and washers to adjust rear camber (others may aswell) and then i would get it aligned too so everything is good, and there wont be future problems. Going through tires faster over the next coupe of years will pry cost more in the end.

 

Before putting my stock springs back on, I had been running over -2 camber all around for over 3 years, and I've never had a camber kit. I've only worn through 2 sets of tires and my 3rd set is about to be done, over the span of 110K miles.

Toe is critical to tire longevity. Camber isn't so much of an issue if you keep the toe and thrust angle in check and rotate tires regularly (every 5K miles).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by walker111 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Raise your car up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Get an alignment.

Toe eats tires.

 

Raise it. I got my car like this and it was the most hellish ride ever. I didn't even try and salvage the suspension, i just tossed it.

 

THREAD JACK:

You still looking for stock seats Jeffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nholmes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THREAD JACK:

You still looking for stock seats Jeffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

and its says your coilovers are for sale??? or do you have another set?

 

My car is fully slam.. I have no problem but camber was pretty much like this / \. Anyhow, I changed the oil every three thousand miles, and then rotate front and rear tires.. Those tires are two years old and no problem at all..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Ash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Raise it. I got my car like this and it was the most hellish ride ever. I didn't even try and salvage the suspension, i just tossed it.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

MORE PICS MORE PICS!!!!

 

not really much more to see; this was after i raised it about 2" all around.

 

Actually, whether you buy a camber kit or not depends on what you're after. Negative camber helps in cornering to a degree. However, if you're not tracking your car much and it's for daily driving, then I recommend at LEAST getting an alignment. Having both negative camber and the toe out will eat up your tires faster than you'd think. Shortly after lowering my ride, I put on the yokohama paradas...and after 6 months of just normal driving, I could see the "threads".....yikes....

so I promptly got an alignment and left the negative camber. I've had tires last me a little over a year now. No problems and no "threads" showing either

 

I thought everybody knew you were supposed to get an alignment after changing suspension. That's like a duhhhh... at least to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeFFFFFFFrey91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im running omni full coilovers, and if you can tell, my car is very low, the tire is slightly tucked with no wheel gap whatsoever. The inner inch of my tires are getting worn much faster than the outside.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want your car to handle as well as possible, then you have lowered it too much. For maximum handling potential, you will want more camber in the front than in the rear.

So you should lower your car for something like -1.5 in the front and zero in the rear, or if you <u>really</u> want it to handle you can lower it so that you have something like -2.5 in the front and -1.5 in the rear.

However, after you do this you will need to go to a really good alignment person with access to a really good computerised laser alignment machine. Your toe needs to be reset front and rear but more importantly you need the front of the car and the rear of the car to be set up properly so that the front and rear are not fighting each other as you track down the road.

After lowering a car, it's very common for the total thrust to be off and this makes for a very squirrely handling automobile.

 

yeah I always describe thrust angle that's off as like you're in a constant drift mode when going down the street (exagerated example)

A buddy of mine always aligns my car on a Hunter machine, and we always check to make sure everything is exactly spot-on. Uusally I will sit in the car as he makes the adjustments.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I thought everybody knew you were supposed to get an alignment after changing suspension. That's like a duhhhh... at least to me. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea unfortunatly no shops by me would take my car. They all said no lowered cars This weekend I'm going to try and do it myself following the guide on c-speedracing.com.


Also for those of you telling him to raise, that don't change the fact that he's going to need an alignment. Everytime you make adjustments to the suspension, whether its lowering or what have you, you need an alignment cause your toe will get thrown out of wack.

Also one quick question for you patrick, do you think it would be necessary to do an alignment after installing rear lca's? I have a pair of omnipowers sitting in my room that I was also thinking about finally installing this weekend.

 

camber is ok, toe causes friction and that what makes the tires get worn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLacK FirE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yea unfortunatly no shops by me would take my car. They all said no lowered cars This weekend I'm going to try and do it myself following the guide on c-speedracing.com.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

The best alignent I've ever seen was by a friends father using a lot of string and such. When his mom told him to take it to a shop to "double check" things, the guys at the shop were puzzled why someone would bring in a car to be aligned with an already perfect alignment.

 

I can almost guarantee that if you straighten the camber completely, you will have rubbing issues at that ride height.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLacK FirE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also one quick question for you patrick, do you think it would be necessary to do an alignment after installing rear lca's? I have a pair of omnipowers sitting in my room that I was also thinking about finally installing this weekend.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Shouldn't make any difference if the mounting points between the subframe and the trailing arm are the same length. If they were a different length (doubtful) then it would change both camber and toe. Shorter LCA's would give more positive camber (or decrease negative camber), and narrow down the rear track and also induce more toe-out. Longer LCA's would increase negative camber and widen the track slightly, and add more toe-in.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Ash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The best alignent I've ever seen was by a friends father using a lot of string and such. When his mom told him to take it to a shop to "double check" things, the guys at the shop were puzzled why someone would bring in a car to be aligned with an already perfect alignment. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Although I've never watched someone do an alignment with string, I can sorta picture how it's done. You may be able to get the toe pretty close, but I'm thinking you would not be able to check the thrust angle using only string, unless I just don't know how it's done. Toe and total toe relate the tires on each side to each other (subtract the reading from the tire with the smaller toe angle from the one with the larger toe angle). Thrust angle relates the toe on each rear tire to the centerline of the car (add the toe reading on each rear tire together). You can have a total toe reading of 0, but still have a thrust angle that's out of whack, if the rear tires look like this \--\ or like this /--/ when looking down from above. I supposed maybe you could run a string down the centerline of the car, if you can actually get it exactly in the center.

It seems to me that given that if you have a lowered car that you drive everyday on the street, and you plan on not using a camber kit, then alignment and toe settings become quite critical to longevity of the tires. Accuracy in the alignment is key. When factory specs call for an in-spec toe range in the hundreths of a degree, which would seem to require actual alignment equipment to acheive.

The string method is probably fine for dialing in settings for track use, but i just don't see how it can be accurate enough to ensure the longest life on suspension setups running greater-than-normal negative camber.

Again this is just me rambling, maybe I just don't know what the string method entails. If someone knows of a how-to website that shows how to align a car w/ string, then please by all means point me to it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Again this is just me rambling, maybe I just don't know what the string method entails. If someone knows of a how-to website that shows how to align a car w/ string, then please by all means point me to it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ask and you shall recieve:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/h...t.php

thanks for anwsering my question.