Alright well I have a diamond audio M610D2 sub and I had a rockford fosgate amp but it blew so i recently bought a audiobahn A8000T new and i hooked it up but the problem seems to be it like stops working after being used for around 20 min. straight the amp gets very hot too. What could be the problem because if this is going to happen all the time no matter what i think i will have to sell it and purchase something of better quality

 

The amp is going into thermal shutdown. It's getting too hot, and to protect itself from burning up, it shuts down.

Does it turn back on after a few mins?

 

yes it does turn on about 2 mins later, how can i help this from happening?

 

Your amp is a class D fan cooled 400W at 4ohms or 800W @ 2ohms mono block sub amp, it has 4 protection circuits in it, thermal, short circuit, overload and DC offset. There are two main reasons an amp over heats, first and most common is an impedance load too low for the amp, and as the amp IS stable at 2ohm, unless the sub you have is a DVC 2ohm sub that is wired in parallel to a 1ohm load, I don't think that is your problem.
That brings us to the second most common reason an amp over heats, NOT ENOUGH POWER, [current] there may be one or more reasons for this, power wire not thick enough or too long for the gage being used, poor grounding, poor connections, and even using one of those shitty glass fuses, [replace with ANL fuse]
There can also be a problem with the amp or a short in the sub, but the above things I would check first. 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Your amp is a class D fan cooled 400W at 4ohms or 800W @ 2ohms mono block sub amp, it has 4 protection circuits in it, thermal, short circuit, overload and DC offset. There are two main reasons an amp over heats, first and most common is an impedance load too low for the amp, and as the amp IS stable at 2ohm, unless the sub you have is a DVC 2ohm sub that is wired in parallel to a 1ohm load, I don't think that is your problem.
That brings us to the second most common reason an amp over heats, NOT ENOUGH POWER, [current] there may be one or more reasons for this, power wire not thick enough or too long for the gage being used, poor grounding, poor connections, and even using one of those shitty glass fuses, [replace with ANL fuse]
There can also be a problem with the amp or a short in the sub, but the above things I would check first. 94</TD></TR></TABLE>


first whats gauge wire should i be using i think im using a 6ga. wire, also what is ANL? i have like the glass fuse thingy,my ground is pretty good..

 

i had that amp...which it was stolen...i didint know it was a class d amp...

from my past experiences...with amps shutting down...id usually have DVC subs and i had them wired wrong...i then killed a coil and the amp would run fine...try that...but yeah, if it gets too hot it'll go in safety mode...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow_CvC99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


first whats gauge wire should i be using i think im using a 6ga. wire, also what is ANL? i have like the glass fuse thingy,my ground is pretty good.. </TD></TR></TABLE> If you are running your amp into a 2 ohm load 800W RMS you should be using 4ga power and ground cable up to about 12-15ft if its over 15ft you need to go to 2ga, you should also "beef up" the ground from the batt. to the chassis and motor/transmission to chassis, [run it the same way as the stock ground].
ANL fuse http://cgi.ebay.ca/Boss-Audio-...wItem if using 4ga cable use a 150A fuse if using 2ga you can use a 200A.
You say your ground is "pretty good". How long is the ground and how and where is it grounded to?
Still need to know about the sub, SVC or DVC and the impedance of the VC/VCs, [what load is the amp "seeing"?] I can't find a M610D2, there is a D610D2 a 600W DVC 2 ohm 10" sub, if that's the case and the VCs are wired in parallel, that would be a 1 ohm load and the amp is not stable below 2 ohms, so that would be your problem, your problem then becomes, you have to wire the VCs in series for a 4 ohm load, but your amp only makes 400W at 4 ohms, 94

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fcm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> If you are running your amp into a 2 ohm load 800W RMS you should be using 4ga power and ground cable up to about 12-15ft if its over 15ft you need to go to 2ga, you should also "beef up" the ground from the batt. to the chassis and motor/transmission to chassis, [run it the same way as the stock ground].
ANL fuse http://cgi.ebay.ca/Boss-Audio-...wItem if using 4ga cable use a 150A fuse if using 2ga you can use a 200A.
You say your ground is "pretty good". How long is the ground and how and where is it grounded to?
Still need to know about the sub, SVC or DVC and the impedance of the VC/VCs, [what load is the amp "seeing"?] I can't find a M610D2, there is a D610D2 a 600W DVC 2 ohm 10" sub, if that's the case and the VCs are wired in parallel, that would be a 1 ohm load and the amp is not stable below 2 ohms, so that would be your problem, your problem then becomes, you have to wire the VCs in series for a 4 ohm load, but your amp only makes 400W at 4 ohms, 94</TD></TR></TABLE>


LoL wow i thought i knew a good amount about car stereos unitl i saw you posting about my topic. Well alright see i know it is a m610d2 i think its just an older model thats why it is not on diamonds page anymore, here is the sub though that i found on ebay that is the same as mine http://cgi.ebay.com/DIAMOND-AU...wItem


The amp is not all the way turned up its about half way, I will take a picture of the back of the subwoofer as soon as my car gets back here so that way you can tell me if it is wired correctly... Thanks

 

ok heres some pictures of the back of the subwoofer








This last one the wire going to the left is the one that goes inside the box

 

you have it wired wrong...thats why you're amp is heating up and going into safe mode...
i kept on blowing fuses too when i had my subs wired that way...trust me...

run one positive on one side to the negative on the other side..then use the remaing positive and negative and run that to the amp...BRIDGED...
try this PLEASE and let me know if it stops overheating...--im sure it will

has this same problem with 3 different subs...

i had the exact same amp..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cd_5TUNR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have it wired wrong...</TD></TR></TABLE> You are correct
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cd_5TUNR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">run one positive on one side to the negative on the other side..then use the remaing positive and negative and run that to the amp...BRIDGED...
</TD></TR></TABLE> You are also correct here but it's called wired in SERIES
http://www.the12volt.com/carau...&I=22 like this 94

 

wait so i wire one positive to pne nevative then the remaining positive and negative i run to the amp?

 

okay...
on one side you have a + and - right...and vice versa on the otherside
hook up + from one side...to the - on the other...
that means you kill a coil...
then take the remaining - on the other and run that to the amp...
do the same to the remaining +...