shifter bushing?
What is the bushing that help the shifter to not move around? Like if you have the car in 1,2,3,4,5 sometime the level is really loose. Do you guys know what i'm taking about. If the car if in first it looks like it in 3rd or it really loose. I want the shifter to be firm i what ever gear i put it in.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Kernel »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the 2 mugen shifter bushings. </TD></TR></TABLE>
2? my set came with 3 pieces.
(they are for sale btw
)
2? my set came with 3 pieces.
(they are for sale btw
)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Willard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">2? my set came with 3 pieces.
(they are for sale btw
)</TD></TR></TABLE>
I remember there was a circular piece that went by the trans end and a rectagular 1 that went right underneath by the shifter.
Where would the 3rd one go??
(they are for sale btw
)</TD></TR></TABLE>I remember there was a circular piece that went by the trans end and a rectagular 1 that went right underneath by the shifter.
Where would the 3rd one go??
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dr Pooface »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The closest you can get to eliminating the play is the E's kit. After that all the play you feel is in the tranny.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where do you get this?
Where do you get this?
some of the play can be caused from the worn out platic bushing at the ball of the shifter. its inside the rubber boot thing.
also the joint itself may be worned and cause play.
but deff upgrade the shifter bushings and work from there. i would replace the plastic one at the ball of the shifter too while the shifter is down.
also the joint itself may be worned and cause play.
but deff upgrade the shifter bushings and work from there. i would replace the plastic one at the ball of the shifter too while the shifter is down.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hayabusa160 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">some of the play can be caused from the worn out platic bushing at the ball of the shifter. its inside the rubber boot thing.
also the joint itself may be worned and cause play.
but deff upgrade the shifter bushings and work from there. i would replace the plastic one at the ball of the shifter too while the shifter is down. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Is this just an OEM part?
also the joint itself may be worned and cause play.
but deff upgrade the shifter bushings and work from there. i would replace the plastic one at the ball of the shifter too while the shifter is down. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Is this just an OEM part?
http://www.summitracing.com
Or, more specifically
http://store.summitracing.com/...h.asp
Part number ENS-16-1101R (red) or ENS-16-1101G (black)
The round one is a bitch to get in...just warning you. It's not split into 2 pieces, and it's hard urethayne so it doesn't give much. Best way to do it is to make sure it's good and lubed up (the bushing and the metal ring on the linkage), interlock your fingers like you're gonna pray, and push it in with your palms (one on the metal ring and one on the bushing). It works, but it takes a lot of effort.
I noticed a good difference, but there's still a little bit of play. Not too much though...and a lot less than with the gum-like OEM rubber ones.
Or, more specifically
http://store.summitracing.com/...h.asp
Part number ENS-16-1101R (red) or ENS-16-1101G (black)
The round one is a bitch to get in...just warning you. It's not split into 2 pieces, and it's hard urethayne so it doesn't give much. Best way to do it is to make sure it's good and lubed up (the bushing and the metal ring on the linkage), interlock your fingers like you're gonna pray, and push it in with your palms (one on the metal ring and one on the bushing). It works, but it takes a lot of effort.
I noticed a good difference, but there's still a little bit of play. Not too much though...and a lot less than with the gum-like OEM rubber ones.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AntiStock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.summitracing.com
Or, more specifically
http://store.summitracing.com/...h.asp
Part number ENS-16-1101R (red) or ENS-16-1101G (black)
The round one is a bitch to get in...just warning you. It's not split into 2 pieces, and it's hard urethayne so it doesn't give much. Best way to do it is to make sure it's good and lubed up (the bushing and the metal ring on the linkage), interlock your fingers like you're gonna pray, and push it in with your palms (one on the metal ring and one on the bushing). It works, but it takes a lot of effort.
I noticed a good difference, but there's still a little bit of play. Not too much though...and a lot less than with the gum-like OEM rubber ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just ordered mine thanks...I been meaning to get them seeing how I got the tranny out right now and I took the shift linkage off already I ordered it.
Or, more specifically
http://store.summitracing.com/...h.asp
Part number ENS-16-1101R (red) or ENS-16-1101G (black)
The round one is a bitch to get in...just warning you. It's not split into 2 pieces, and it's hard urethayne so it doesn't give much. Best way to do it is to make sure it's good and lubed up (the bushing and the metal ring on the linkage), interlock your fingers like you're gonna pray, and push it in with your palms (one on the metal ring and one on the bushing). It works, but it takes a lot of effort.
I noticed a good difference, but there's still a little bit of play. Not too much though...and a lot less than with the gum-like OEM rubber ones.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I just ordered mine thanks...I been meaning to get them seeing how I got the tranny out right now and I took the shift linkage off already I ordered it.
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