Question about Tapping.
Hey,
Ok, so this pic below is the broken piece of the inside of my tranny casing. What is supposed to thread in there is the pivot ball for the clutch fork.

Right now the tranny is at a welder and he's using filler to make a mound. I am going to have to drill and tap it.
My question is: with my regular tap set, I have the thing with the two handles that you twist which turns the tap bolt thing. I can't use this becuase of the tight space, the long handle arms will not clear the tranny casing walls.
So I need something long to attach the tap rod thing to. What should I use. I'm NOT going to use a drill because I need something that I can turn with my hands slowly.
Any ideas?
Ok, so this pic below is the broken piece of the inside of my tranny casing. What is supposed to thread in there is the pivot ball for the clutch fork.

Right now the tranny is at a welder and he's using filler to make a mound. I am going to have to drill and tap it.
My question is: with my regular tap set, I have the thing with the two handles that you twist which turns the tap bolt thing. I can't use this becuase of the tight space, the long handle arms will not clear the tranny casing walls.
So I need something long to attach the tap rod thing to. What should I use. I'm NOT going to use a drill because I need something that I can turn with my hands slowly.
Any ideas?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are ur taps square on the end? </TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah. I'm going to drill out a hole first.
If your tap set has hexagonal ends to feed into the "two handled spinner thingy" that we're both talking about, you can just find the appropriate metric or standard socket and use a ratchet extension.
If it's a square-end tap set, Craftsman makes some 8-sided sockets that I've never found a use for. Well, obviously an 8-sided socket will house a 4-sided tap end if you can find one of the proper size.
Those are my two ideas that I think will work. What may also work (but is ghetto and might produce a crooked thread pattern) is attaching some vice-grips to the end of the tap and screwing it in like that.
If it's a square-end tap set, Craftsman makes some 8-sided sockets that I've never found a use for. Well, obviously an 8-sided socket will house a 4-sided tap end if you can find one of the proper size.
Those are my two ideas that I think will work. What may also work (but is ghetto and might produce a crooked thread pattern) is attaching some vice-grips to the end of the tap and screwing it in like that.
ok, i've had to do something very similar at work before, what i did was i took a 3/8 extension bar, put the open end on the tap, put a 3/8 socket on the male part of the extension, then a 3/8 allen key bit in the socket, then just stuck a socket wrench in the allen bit and turned,
My tap has the hexagonal ends, and ya i have that two handled spinner thing. That's what I can't use, because the radius it spins on is just too long.
I was told not to use a socket becuase it only puts pressure on one side of the tap as you turn.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, i've had to do something very similar at work before, what i did was i took a 3/8 extension bar, put the open end on the tap, put a 3/8 socket on the male part of the extension, then a 3/8 allen key bit in the socket, then just stuck a socket wrench in the allen bit and turned, </TD></TR></TABLE>Genious, but I just tried and the square end of my tap bit is too small to fit in the female end of the 3/8 extension.
I was told not to use a socket becuase it only puts pressure on one side of the tap as you turn.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok, i've had to do something very similar at work before, what i did was i took a 3/8 extension bar, put the open end on the tap, put a 3/8 socket on the male part of the extension, then a 3/8 allen key bit in the socket, then just stuck a socket wrench in the allen bit and turned, </TD></TR></TABLE>Genious, but I just tried and the square end of my tap bit is too small to fit in the female end of the 3/8 extension.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh ya if u have an 8 point socket try that, i did not at the time so my ghetto setup might b the last thing u try, </TD></TR></TABLE>
Now that I think about it - DUH! - a ******* 12-point socket will work too, lol. 12/4 = 3
.
I love my college edjukayshun.
Now that I think about it - DUH! - a ******* 12-point socket will work too, lol. 12/4 = 3
.I love my college edjukayshun.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by litterbox »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was told not to use a socket becuase it only puts pressure on one side of the tap as you turn.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's a huge lie. As long as you hold the extension steady it's putting force along all sides of the inner socket walls at once. That's just how torsion works. You might be able to keep it straighter with two opposed handles, but it doesn't change physics just because there's one handle
. Acceleration is applied toward the center
. Torque applies itself from the center out, therefore if you're using a symmetrical extension and socket, it's applying roughly the exact amount of torsion to every point of contact along the inner walls of the socket.
That's a huge lie. As long as you hold the extension steady it's putting force along all sides of the inner socket walls at once. That's just how torsion works. You might be able to keep it straighter with two opposed handles, but it doesn't change physics just because there's one handle
. Acceleration is applied toward the center
. Torque applies itself from the center out, therefore if you're using a symmetrical extension and socket, it's applying roughly the exact amount of torsion to every point of contact along the inner walls of the socket.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civicse »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what size is the tap end? </TD></TR></TABLE>one sec...
Yeah, tried em all. I'm going to try and find this thing called a shank tap. Supposed to be an extension.
Thanks for all your help guys.
Thanks for all your help guys.
You can use a drill. All/most cordless drill has a slow and fast setting. Depending on the pressure you use on the trigger, you can go even slower than slow.
And I would suggest using the middle of the torque settings (again most/all cordless drills have this). Prevents from snapping a bit.
Good luck and don't go too deep of course.
And I would suggest using the middle of the torque settings (again most/all cordless drills have this). Prevents from snapping a bit.
Good luck and don't go too deep of course.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Laserjock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can use a drill. All/most cordless drill has a slow and fast setting. Depending on the pressure you use on the trigger, you can go even slower than slow.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And you skip the tap or pitch the hole even a little bit and the hole is destroyed.
VETO!
And you skip the tap or pitch the hole even a little bit and the hole is destroyed.
VETO!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And you skip the tap or pitch the hole even a little bit and the hole is destroyed.
VETO!</TD></TR></TABLE>
YMMV of course. I use this method all the time at work and been doing it for years. I find it is easier to start the tap this way when hand-tapping. When starting the tap, I spin the drill slooowly and the tap actually centers and pulls itself in. No pressure necesseary. I should have elaborated that earlier. Works great when I'm not on the mill.
I didn't know we are using the Legislative process in the forum. Otherwise I would have presented my post in the form of a bill
OVERRULE
And you skip the tap or pitch the hole even a little bit and the hole is destroyed.
VETO!</TD></TR></TABLE>
YMMV of course. I use this method all the time at work and been doing it for years. I find it is easier to start the tap this way when hand-tapping. When starting the tap, I spin the drill slooowly and the tap actually centers and pulls itself in. No pressure necesseary. I should have elaborated that earlier. Works great when I'm not on the mill.
I didn't know we are using the Legislative process in the forum. Otherwise I would have presented my post in the form of a bill
OVERRULE
i just saw your other post in the welding and fab. I wanted to add this. Make sure you use a lot of lube and reverse the tap to remove the buildup of burr.
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