JDM Folding Mirrors used in conjuction to arming the alarm?
Considering using a window module like a dei 530 or 529 but i read it can be done with a relay.
"If they are ground triggered, you can just wire into the switch inside the car that you push to fold and open them. You'd use "ground when armed" wire to close them and probably split and diode your unlock wire so that when you disarm the alarm (unlocking the doors) will power flip the mirrors open again.
Keep in mind, if you need the key in the ignition in order to operate the mirrors, then this will not work and you'd have to wire in a relay to CONSTANT power so that you can have this function without the key in the ignition."
Is this right?
"If they are ground triggered, you can just wire into the switch inside the car that you push to fold and open them. You'd use "ground when armed" wire to close them and probably split and diode your unlock wire so that when you disarm the alarm (unlocking the doors) will power flip the mirrors open again.
Keep in mind, if you need the key in the ignition in order to operate the mirrors, then this will not work and you'd have to wire in a relay to CONSTANT power so that you can have this function without the key in the ignition."
Is this right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Phamine »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Considering using a window module like a dei 530 or 529 but i read it can be done with a relay.
"If they are ground triggered, you can just wire into the switch inside the car that you push to fold and open them. You'd use "ground when armed" wire to close them and probably split and diode your unlock wire so that when you disarm the alarm (unlocking the doors) will power flip the mirrors open again.
Keep in mind, if you need the key in the ignition in order to operate the mirrors, then this will not work and you'd have to wire in a relay to CONSTANT power so that you can have this function without the key in the ignition."
Is this right?
</TD></TR></TABLE> Partly, as I understand it, the mirrors have a rocker switch, push and let go and the mirror folds in, push again and it folds out, so giving the same wire a neg. pulse folds the mirror in or out, depending on where it was, if that is so, then they are already "relay" controlled and all you would need is a neg. low currant pulse, [like the door lock outputs of the alarm] but because you are triggering the same wire you will have to install 2 diodes to isolate the lock and unlock wires from each other.
94
"If they are ground triggered, you can just wire into the switch inside the car that you push to fold and open them. You'd use "ground when armed" wire to close them and probably split and diode your unlock wire so that when you disarm the alarm (unlocking the doors) will power flip the mirrors open again.
Keep in mind, if you need the key in the ignition in order to operate the mirrors, then this will not work and you'd have to wire in a relay to CONSTANT power so that you can have this function without the key in the ignition."
Is this right?
</TD></TR></TABLE> Partly, as I understand it, the mirrors have a rocker switch, push and let go and the mirror folds in, push again and it folds out, so giving the same wire a neg. pulse folds the mirror in or out, depending on where it was, if that is so, then they are already "relay" controlled and all you would need is a neg. low currant pulse, [like the door lock outputs of the alarm] but because you are triggering the same wire you will have to install 2 diodes to isolate the lock and unlock wires from each other.
94
Yes if you are using the door lock outputs on the alarm for door locks and the mirror switch sends a 12V+ pulse to the control box that is exactly how to wire it.
94
94
I don't understand the part of the schematic dealing with the neg pulse from the mirror relay and the 12v relay. Would someone be able to clarify this for me
That may have been me that confused you, I assumed the mirror switch sent a neg. pulse to the mirror control box, but the schematic that MestizoRacer310 found and posted suggests that it is a pos. pulse, if that is the case, [and I don't doubt it]
then you have to install a relay to convert the alarms low current neg. door lock outputs to a pos. pulse.
After the diodes on the alarms lock and unlock wires on the diagram you posted, both would go to 85 of the relay, like here http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp (-) trigger is both the lock and unlock wire, Fused 12V+ is just that, a constant 12V+, you can get that off the constant power free pin on the fuse box, 12V+ Output goes to the trigger input of the mirror control box, the fuse that you use in the "Fused 12V+" should be no bigger the the fuse for the folding mirror and may well be as small as 1A, [enough for the relay and trigger for the mirror control box, I do not know if the trigger is low or high current, easy to find out, start with a 1A and keep going up until it doesn't blow anymore, with the max size being no bigger then the one for the mirror control box.
94
then you have to install a relay to convert the alarms low current neg. door lock outputs to a pos. pulse.
After the diodes on the alarms lock and unlock wires on the diagram you posted, both would go to 85 of the relay, like here http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page1.asp (-) trigger is both the lock and unlock wire, Fused 12V+ is just that, a constant 12V+, you can get that off the constant power free pin on the fuse box, 12V+ Output goes to the trigger input of the mirror control box, the fuse that you use in the "Fused 12V+" should be no bigger the the fuse for the folding mirror and may well be as small as 1A, [enough for the relay and trigger for the mirror control box, I do not know if the trigger is low or high current, easy to find out, start with a 1A and keep going up until it doesn't blow anymore, with the max size being no bigger then the one for the mirror control box.
94
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