I've seen some drag specific cars that are running no radiators. If you have tried this how hot did the car get after 1 pass down the 1320? I would think this can be done without a problem due to being towed back and forth from the pits. I'm trying to get more engine bay space for other items. Don't want to have to buy a half core radiator if I don't have to. Right now I have a C&R civic dual core radiator. Any suggestions or tips would be greatly appreciated.

 

Since I switched to Methanol, I havent ran a radiator, this is a allmotor drag car, Ive ran in 100 degree days an havent seen temps are 190 we usaualy put heat in the engine before runs, do a burnout, and tow it back to pits, but I have drove it a good bit also and have had no trouble. but I wouldnt have been able to do this last year when we where on gas

 

I'm currently on gas and a turbo setup. Usually after a run the logs showed I was aroung 190 to 200 degrees. This was with a slight warm up before the run. If I shortened the warmup significantly I would think the temps would be about the same. Might have to just try and see. Thanks for your input.

 

Alot of muscle cars don't run radiators or coolant... they just fill the coolant passages in the block with concrete or block filler/sealer.

One thing to thing about is, does your fuel mangement need to have a warm engine to run correctly and also most muscle cars' blocks are made of cast iron which can tolerate more heat.

 

Yes the tune is determined with about 180-200 degrees. I think I'm going to try and see how long it takes for the motor to get up to operating temps.

 

plus a muscle car has a carb (dumb compared to EFI) most anyways....
A heated up engine to proper opperating tempts isnt as crucial im sure...

 

It won't work on gas man, don't bother trying. It works on alcohol cars, but we still get up to around 200 by the end of a pass. A gas car will definitely overheat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">plus a muscle car has a carb (dumb compared to EFI) most anyways....</TD></TR></TABLE>

why would you say that? they can make more power than efi..that's what drag racing is mostly about..power (then getting the power to the ground)

 

Well, being real, carbs are dumb compared to efi. They might atomize fuel better in certain situations, but they don't have anywhere near the capabilities of a fuel injection system. If they were so "smart" then they would've come on a car built in the last 15 years.

 

efi is great for a car that sees a lot of part throttle, and can compensate for more environments....but carbs still have the ability to make more power, that was my only comment to make

 

EFI is great for a car that sees temperature changes, altitude changes, manifold pressure changes, throttle changes. A car that needs individual cylinder trims, gear compensation trims, anti lag trims, etc. A carb is good at WOT. Therefore, carbs are "dumb".

 

...arguing is 'dumb'

carbs are good for a drag car for sure.

efi is good for a car that isnt at WOT all the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">EFI is great for a car that sees temperature changes, altitude changes, manifold pressure changes, throttle changes. A car that needs individual cylinder trims, gear compensation trims, anti lag trims, etc. A carb is good at WOT. Therefore, carbs are "dumb". </TD></TR></TABLE>

um...that's pretty much what i said

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rhd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but carbs still have the ability to make more power, that was my only comment to make </TD></TR></TABLE>

But they are still "dumb"... No one said or even implied that one was better than the other for making power, only how one or the other would react or not react in a certian situation.

 

You guys crack me up... haha

 

remember also you cant just start your car and run.
vtec will not engage unless the motor/oil is hot

 

VTEC will engage as long as there is 12v at the solenoid and enough oil pressure for it to mechanically work. The factory ecu won't send the signal if the coolant is too cold, just so you don't hurt anything revving too high when it's cold. It's not that the vtec won't work when it's cold, it's just the factory ecu not turning it on. Any car with an aftermarket ecu usually doesn't use coolant temp as a factor for vtec, usually only rpm.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crazyimport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">remember also you cant just start your car and run.
vtec will not engage unless the motor/oil is hot</TD></TR></TABLE>

Don't worry. I would never make a pass if the motor were not at operating temps.

 

Another reason carbs are dumb is because they fail emissions all the time! har Har.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ls1 FD3s &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another reason carbs are dumb is because they fail emissions all the time! har Har. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thank god i don't have to worry about that crap here!

are all states like NC, if a cars like 30 years old or so, they don;t even have to have an inspection?

 

If a car was made on or before 1969 is doesn't need to be smoged in California.

 

 

 

does anyone use anything smaller than a stock civic radiator? (will the fluidyne radiator for carts work?)

 

I wouldn't on gas...