Does anyone in here have the slightest idea why my intake valves won't adjust? I went through the steps the way it says in the HAYNES manual. The exhaust valves adjusted properly but the intake are not moving at all.

What could be causing this to happen. Valves bent? or rocker arms to tight? Any info please help.

 

I finally figured out what happen and adjusted the valves but I still get no compression. Anybody have any clue? The block is newly bored and honed with wiseco pistons 82mm

 

I have been waiting 2 days and have not yet received any input> I remember when you would be able to get input same day sometimes.

I guess all the rest of the honda forums have conjested this place and its no longer a place where Honda enthusiasts help each other.

13.3@114mph B16A2 greddy 18g 12psi 16" pirelli p zeros blazin fast street car.

 

Are the intake valves "moving" now? I assume you mean when you would turn the engine by hand.

Did you install this head yourself?

 

Yes, I did the head has been nrecently machined and set up with dual valve springs tit. ret and stainless steel valves. They're moving now.

 

And you're 100% positive that the timing is correct. No compression means something is really screwed. Valve not closing all the way, or not closing when it should be, hole in piston, etc. A leakdown test will tell you where it is coming from. Hell, even just blowing air into the cylinder will do it.

 

Try pouring 1 tea spoon of oil in each cylinder, then cranking it over for a few seconds, then do a compression test.

 

Have you performed a compression test or is the car just not starting?
If the compression is bad across the board....
1. check timing marks
2. double check timing marks(people always think its on and its not....you can be 180 off. If not sure just ask for exact procedure
3.do a leak down and pinpoint the bad cylinder(s). If the leakdown is good then you should have good compression. Even with a bad valve adjustment the car will start.
4. If its a new motor and your starting it for the first time......make sure you have fuel/spark. Without these youll never get proper compression because the rings will never seat.
5.if all this is good.....check timing marks again!
If all this is on and you have a good leakdown and great compression numbers(although you said you didnt have any) post back with all results for further diag.

 

Thanks alot so far for the input. I have removed the head to inspect the valves. I had checked the compression and it was bad all the way. I had my fuel and my spark working but had no compression.

A friend of mine said he thought the valves were bent. So I will leak test the head by itself. The car has not started and I don't have the proper leakdown test so I will get some carb cleaner and spray the openings (Intake and Exhaust). See if the valves are leaking or not.

I will let you guys know how it goes thanks

 

So the valves seem to be fine. They don't leak. Maybe I didn't adjust them properly. This is hell trying to figure this out. Hopefully it will all pay off soon.

 

My timing seems to be on right. Just wanted to know besides putting the timing belt on the right direction is there anything else you do.

 

Did u adjust them valves yet? if not i got the tool just lemme know if u need it

 

Have you performed a compression test or is the car just not starting?
If the compression is bad across the board....
1. check timing marks
2. double check timing marks(people always think its on and its not....you can be 180 off. If not sure just ask for exact procedure
3.do a leak down and pinpoint the bad cylinder(s). If the leakdown is good then you should have good compression. Even with a bad valve adjustment the car will start.
4. If its a new motor and your starting it for the first time......make sure you have fuel/spark. Without these youll never get proper compression because the rings will never seat.
5.if all this is good.....check timing marks again!
If all this is on and you have a good leakdown and great compression numbers(although you said you didnt have any) post back with all results for further diag.


Get yourself a leakdown tester and do the above. Report back

 

I will attempt to do all this today becaude I really need my car now. Thanks alot I will check back eith you later.

I just wanted to to ask if you were sure about the valves? Because I was told on a motor that just had the the head built the stems are cut making it longer causing the valves to stay open and will not hold compression.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hecdosage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just wanted to to ask if you were sure about the valves? Because I was told on a motor that just had the the head built the stems are cut making it longer causing the valves to stay open and will not hold compression.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This makes no sense at all.

 

It turned out to be the timing after all the New Cam gears I got from SRR were reading backwards But A friend of mine from BPR Closely examined what was going on and figured it out.

It does not make sense how they did'nt mark where the arrows go. I had them set with the adjutment meter up which was wrong. But now the car runs thank goodness. Peace and thanks for all the help.

Stay tune for dyno results coming soon from DRT

 

Did you do your compression test before you started the engine for the first time? I see you figured your problem out, but I am having compression problems on a newly rebuilt head as well. The engine has already been broken in, but I just had two bent valves replaced along with a valve job. I did a leak down test and see that all 16 valves are leaking horribly (90-95% leak). Does the engine have to run for a little while to seat the valves so that they won't leak, or did the machine shop screw up my head even worse?

 

Any luck with you head and valves yet?

 

Yes, all is well, and the problem was clear. See the following post if interested in the details. https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1405535. Thanks!