Ok i used to be running stock valvetrain with the obx stage 1 cams. I was pulling 14.5s at 94-95mph. After those cams ate my rockers i bough new rockers and put in the stage 2 crowers with crower valvetrain and milled the head to give me 11:1 compression. I just got back from the track and my best time was a 14.7 at 91 mph. When i saw that my mph was anywere from 89-91 mph i was like wtf. Before it was anywere from 94-97 mph. I did have a issue with the timing belt being off a tooth and did the valve lash when the intake cam was off a tooth. Could this be the cause of the problem. I also had the sae 75 oil still in there from when i was breaking in the cams bc crower said to leave it in till i hit 100 miles. I need help this is very aggrivating to do this work for a slower car.

 

I know running a significantly thicker oil will definitely rob you of a few horsepower.

Also, did you tune after the cam installs, or are you just popping them in each time?


OT: I was reading your old topic asking about rocker arms where you mentioned the OBX cams had eaten your rockers. You didn't mention this in the OBX cam thread you made. So how many miles did you put on them before realizing they were being eaten?

 

We did do a street tune using chrome. Do you think the valve adjustment while the intake cam was off a tooth would make a diffrence. I was thinking maybe it caused the intake rockers to be way loose or tight.Cam gears are also set to +2 bc of the mill.
Yea I noticed around 10k when i pulled them out bc people were claiming there rocker arms were screwed. There are people caiming there rockers are fine bc of there break in and thicker oil.

 

you need to tune the motor dude, you used to be tuned, now youre not....there is your answer

 

Uh I put in the 3rd post that we did do a street tune with a wideband using chrome.
Im not that stupid to go run at the track untuned

 

i think you need to get your timing right. Then worry about the times after you go to the track again.

 

My timing belt is fixed. I just did my valve adjustment when my intake cams was off a tooth. Then i fixed that but froggot to redo my valve lash. Would the valve lash change if it was off a tooth. This is the only thing i can think of that is killing my 1/4 times. Maybe its not getting enough air in bc the valve lash is off on the intake cam.

 

a valve adjustment doesnt fix bad timing.

 

I know that. I was saying i did my valve adjustment while it was off a tooth not after it was fixed. I was wondering if i should do my valve adjustment again scince the cam was 1 tooth off when i did it the 1st time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Uh I put in the 3rd post that we did do a street tune with a wideband using chrome.
Im not that stupid to go run at the track untuned </TD></TR></TABLE>

a street tuning is not a tuning, thats a "get the a/f ratios acceptable for all rpm ranges"

tuning involves a dyno...

 

Dude I ran into the same thing, you need to redo the valve lash period. If it was off a tooth when you did it the lash is not going to be right.

 

Man sorry to hear that. OBX should be banned from making anything - thats ******* rediculous.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mgags7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a street tuning is not a tuning, thats a "get the a/f ratios acceptable for all rpm ranges"

tuning involves a dyno...</TD></TR></TABLE>

all a dyno does is give numbers. It's possible to get even a better tune street tuning because your actually out driving the car under normal conditions.

 

how do you have any means of adjusting timing curves and optimizing cam angles...you have no means of seeing whether you improved or decreased power....

seriously, you cant be arguing that a street tune is better.....its fine for a/f ratio adjustment, but that is not tuning.....

 

you can adjust timing through the crome program. My buddy got his ls integra street tuned, then dyno tuned. When he got on the dyno, it didnt make anymore power than the baseline run. Power output really doesnt matter. Its possible to have a better tune and not make as much peak power.

 

i dont think you understand what i am saying:

to TUNE a car, you play with cam gears, ignition maps, and lastly fuel ratios....

you set the fuel at whatever ratio you want over the whole rpm range, this can be done on the street or on the dyno...

you then go in and add/subtract ignition and watch for increases and decreases in torque and power....

your tuner is no good, and a ls integra is not a good test medium for tuning...

midrange hp counts for picked up power, peak numbers are not that big a deal, its the midrange that counts....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">all a dyno does is give numbers. It's possible to get even a better tune street tuning because your actually out driving the car under normal conditions.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's why you use a load simulating dyno like a dynapack

 

Ok im gonna redo the valve lash tommorow and hit the track on friday after work hopefully thats the problem. My cam gears at +2 wouldnt cause this would it. I was told for ever .01?? you advance 1 degree.

 

My ignition timing was advanced alot bc i just put it to how it was on my old setup.But scince i milled the head and messed with cam gears this made it advanced alot. Could this of caused it. Now its at 16 degrees but havnt had a chance to take it for a spin yet.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by matix &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My ignition timing was advanced alot bc i just put it to how it was on my old setup.But scince i milled the head and messed with cam gears this made it advanced alot. Could this of caused it. Now its at 16 degrees but havnt had a chance to take it for a spin yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought you tuned it?

this was mgags point about dynotuning... on a dyno you would have been able to mess w/ timing along w/ A/F and whatever other tweaks you can do to a car.

 

Yea I think it just needs some dynotime. Also was(bitch) shifting with a broken thumb. So that might be another reason my times were slower. I just wanna see what it makes compared to my old setup on the dyno.

 

i think all these people hit this right on the nail. Dyno time with a good tuner. Also understand that the crower cams have tons of overlap. Which means that they are designed for quite higher static compression ratio than your 11 to 1. Generally from what I have seen people have to retard the exhaust cam up to 3 degrees to tune enough overlap out to make power. Just my thoughts. It will make power so dont worry.