Type R into DA Integra
I was just wondering if anyone knew how difficult it would be to be swap a type R motor into my 91 Integra. Thanx. Also maybe what parts I might need
Assuming you mean a USDM B18C5...
Engine: 1997-up USDM B18C5
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 10.6:1
Hp/Torque: 195hp@8000rpm/130lb-ft@7500rpm
Transmission: S80 w/ LSD (hydraulic)
This is an OBD-2 engine from 97-up Integra Type Rs. This motor is TOP DOG of all 1.8 Liter Honda motors (with exception of the JDM B18C5). With almost 200hp and more torque than your stock B18A1, this motor will make your car feel like a totally different monster. But with the performance comes a price tag. Price on this motor will vary as well. Sometimes you can find a deal for about $4500, other times you may pay up to $5500 for one of these motors. This is not a swap for people that are trying to do an inexpensive swap. If you are doing this swap, you know EXACTLY what you are buying. Mileage on this motor will vary, because it is a US Spec motor and we don’t have to pull our motors at 40,000 miles. These are the only items of concern with this swap:
Wiring Harness-You will need to use your existing B18A1 cream plug wiring harness. It will plug into everything on the motor except for the distributor and injectors. And just like the B17A1 engine, you’ll have to add the 3 wires for VTEC, knock sensor wire, and the second oxygen sensor. Also, the temperature switch on this motor is located on the thermostat housing unlike your B18A1 which is located on the back side of the block, so you will have to cut and extend the two wire plug to reach the thermostat housing. But this is fairly easy. The black plug harness that comes with the OBD-2 B18C5 cannot be used, but can be sold for $100-$125.
Motor Mounts-Use your existing B18A1 mounts. They are slightly different than the B18C5 mounts.
Distributor-You can use your B18A distributor but the leg towards the front of the car has to be cut off to allow clearance for the VTEC purge assembly. You will only have two bolts holding your distributor, but that is adequate. You can do this or your other choice is to buy a non-OBD VTEC distributor (PR3). You can find them on the net for as little as $100, but most are priced at about $150. The OBD-2 Distributor that came with the motor cannot be used but can be sold for $150-$200.
Injectors-You will need to use your existing non-OBD B18A1 injectors. The OBD-2 injectors have a different plug on them made for the b1ack OBD-2 harness. Other than that, the injectors are identical.
ECU-This motor will come with an OBD-2 VTEC ECU (P73). You cannot use this ECU with your harness that is inside your vehicle (non-OBD). So sell it and buy a non-OBD VTEC ECU (PR3, PWO). But you may want to consider getting an after market chip to up the VTEC x-over and redline to Integra Type R Specs.
Transmission- This engine also comes equipped with a hydraulic transmission with LSD, which either needs to be swapped out for a short geared cable transmission (J1, S1) or I believe Place Racing makes a hydraulic to cable converter that you can use. But then you are talking about more money (but it may be worth it to have the LSD). Again you can buy a YS1 short geared transmission, but you will need a clutch assembly from a 92-93 Integra or you can use the B18C5 clutch and flywheel. In fact, if you get the B18C5 flywheel with the engine, use that since it is 14lbs instead of 18lbs like the rest of the B-series flywheels. Lighter equals faster revving!!!
Clutch-Depending on what transmission you go with (90-91 or 92-up cable transmissions) will determine what clutch you should get. If you get a 91 or older cable transmission you will need a 90-91 Integra clutch assembly. If you go with the 92 up YS1 Cable transmission, you will need a 92 up Integra clutch assembly. Use the matching flywheel with the same clutch. If the B18C5 motor came with the flywheel and clutch, use those with either the hydraulic transmission with place racing converter or buy a YS1 short geared cable transmission.
Below are things that I recommend doing while your motor is out and before you drop your B18C5 in:
Replace the water pump & thermostat (depending on miles)
Replace the timing belt and timing belt tensioner (depending on miles)
Replace Cap, Rotor, and Spark plugs
Adjust valves
Replace valve cover gasket and spark plug seals
Replace fuel filter
Replace PCV valve
**NOTE**
I didn't write this. This is part of a great and detailed writeup by Dan Platt. The entire writeup includes basically any B-series engine swap for a 90-91 teg or 92-93 teg. It can be found on http://www.g2ic.com under the "Teg Tips" section (go to the engine section and select "Engine Swap Guide". Very very informative writeup. You should check the whole thing out and look at your options...
-- Kevin
Engine: 1997-up USDM B18C5
Displacement: 1797cc
Compression Ratio: 10.6:1
Hp/Torque: 195hp@8000rpm/130lb-ft@7500rpm
Transmission: S80 w/ LSD (hydraulic)
This is an OBD-2 engine from 97-up Integra Type Rs. This motor is TOP DOG of all 1.8 Liter Honda motors (with exception of the JDM B18C5). With almost 200hp and more torque than your stock B18A1, this motor will make your car feel like a totally different monster. But with the performance comes a price tag. Price on this motor will vary as well. Sometimes you can find a deal for about $4500, other times you may pay up to $5500 for one of these motors. This is not a swap for people that are trying to do an inexpensive swap. If you are doing this swap, you know EXACTLY what you are buying. Mileage on this motor will vary, because it is a US Spec motor and we don’t have to pull our motors at 40,000 miles. These are the only items of concern with this swap:
Wiring Harness-You will need to use your existing B18A1 cream plug wiring harness. It will plug into everything on the motor except for the distributor and injectors. And just like the B17A1 engine, you’ll have to add the 3 wires for VTEC, knock sensor wire, and the second oxygen sensor. Also, the temperature switch on this motor is located on the thermostat housing unlike your B18A1 which is located on the back side of the block, so you will have to cut and extend the two wire plug to reach the thermostat housing. But this is fairly easy. The black plug harness that comes with the OBD-2 B18C5 cannot be used, but can be sold for $100-$125.
Motor Mounts-Use your existing B18A1 mounts. They are slightly different than the B18C5 mounts.
Distributor-You can use your B18A distributor but the leg towards the front of the car has to be cut off to allow clearance for the VTEC purge assembly. You will only have two bolts holding your distributor, but that is adequate. You can do this or your other choice is to buy a non-OBD VTEC distributor (PR3). You can find them on the net for as little as $100, but most are priced at about $150. The OBD-2 Distributor that came with the motor cannot be used but can be sold for $150-$200.
Injectors-You will need to use your existing non-OBD B18A1 injectors. The OBD-2 injectors have a different plug on them made for the b1ack OBD-2 harness. Other than that, the injectors are identical.
ECU-This motor will come with an OBD-2 VTEC ECU (P73). You cannot use this ECU with your harness that is inside your vehicle (non-OBD). So sell it and buy a non-OBD VTEC ECU (PR3, PWO). But you may want to consider getting an after market chip to up the VTEC x-over and redline to Integra Type R Specs.
Transmission- This engine also comes equipped with a hydraulic transmission with LSD, which either needs to be swapped out for a short geared cable transmission (J1, S1) or I believe Place Racing makes a hydraulic to cable converter that you can use. But then you are talking about more money (but it may be worth it to have the LSD). Again you can buy a YS1 short geared transmission, but you will need a clutch assembly from a 92-93 Integra or you can use the B18C5 clutch and flywheel. In fact, if you get the B18C5 flywheel with the engine, use that since it is 14lbs instead of 18lbs like the rest of the B-series flywheels. Lighter equals faster revving!!!
Clutch-Depending on what transmission you go with (90-91 or 92-up cable transmissions) will determine what clutch you should get. If you get a 91 or older cable transmission you will need a 90-91 Integra clutch assembly. If you go with the 92 up YS1 Cable transmission, you will need a 92 up Integra clutch assembly. Use the matching flywheel with the same clutch. If the B18C5 motor came with the flywheel and clutch, use those with either the hydraulic transmission with place racing converter or buy a YS1 short geared cable transmission.
Below are things that I recommend doing while your motor is out and before you drop your B18C5 in:
Replace the water pump & thermostat (depending on miles)
Replace the timing belt and timing belt tensioner (depending on miles)
Replace Cap, Rotor, and Spark plugs
Adjust valves
Replace valve cover gasket and spark plug seals
Replace fuel filter
Replace PCV valve
**NOTE**
I didn't write this. This is part of a great and detailed writeup by Dan Platt. The entire writeup includes basically any B-series engine swap for a 90-91 teg or 92-93 teg. It can be found on http://www.g2ic.com under the "Teg Tips" section (go to the engine section and select "Engine Swap Guide". Very very informative writeup. You should check the whole thing out and look at your options...
-- Kevin
Lol it only has G2 info because it's G2IC...Generation 2 Integra club 
As for your car though, search on here, there has to be stuff. Or try http://www.team-integra.net/, I'm sure they'll have stuff to.
Putting a Type R engine in your car would be more straightforward then swapping it into a G2, so it shouldn't be as complicated. Main thing I would see is the OBD difference. I'm not going to get into details though, that can be your job
-- Kevin

As for your car though, search on here, there has to be stuff. Or try http://www.team-integra.net/, I'm sure they'll have stuff to.
Putting a Type R engine in your car would be more straightforward then swapping it into a G2, so it shouldn't be as complicated. Main thing I would see is the OBD difference. I'm not going to get into details though, that can be your job
-- Kevin
Rather than doing the type R swap, do a b16 swap, turbo it and build the motor for the same price and make more hp and tq than the type R....IMO
just go turbo
or build a motor for turbo.
a type r motor is over priced and in a integra is quite slow
i have a 200whp lsvtec in my DA and let me tell from personal experance that its slow and i wish i went turbo every time i drive my car
or build a motor for turbo.
a type r motor is over priced and in a integra is quite slow
i have a 200whp lsvtec in my DA and let me tell from personal experance that its slow and i wish i went turbo every time i drive my car
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cooch2005 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why wouldn't i just turbo the b18 then....</TD></TR></TABLE>
i say do whacha like. with turbo comes a shitload of maitnence and tuning and constant worry. there are companies that sell plug and play ENGINE harnesses (not ECU JUMPER HARNESSES as this is not the proper way to do the swap /me puts on flame suit) that you could use to mate the b18c5 to your car and make is a quick and easy ordeal.
i say do whacha like. with turbo comes a shitload of maitnence and tuning and constant worry. there are companies that sell plug and play ENGINE harnesses (not ECU JUMPER HARNESSES as this is not the proper way to do the swap /me puts on flame suit) that you could use to mate the b18c5 to your car and make is a quick and easy ordeal.
But yet again, when i see people that have a $5000 type R swap get eatin by someone with a $2000 turbo kit, i cant help but laugh b/c it's such a waiste of money...i know many people will argue me to death on it..but in my opinion its not worth it...
If you want to stay simple turbo ur b18 and dont even worry about ls/vtec, and just build the motor, and tune it nicely ( u can find people to tune it the right way...once)
If you want to stay simple turbo ur b18 and dont even worry about ls/vtec, and just build the motor, and tune it nicely ( u can find people to tune it the right way...once)
I just thought i'd mention I already have K&N cold air intake, K&N filters, custom active headers, 2.5" custom exhaust, and a 4" pipe, oh, and an aftermarket rad...i'm assuming almost none of that will be compatable with the engine swap or the supercharge?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sooo_slow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But yet again, when i see people that have a $5000 type R swap get eatin by someone with a $2000 turbo kit, i cant help but laugh b/c it's such a waiste of money...i know many people will argue me to death on it..but in my opinion its not worth it...
If you want to stay simple turbo ur b18 and dont even worry about ls/vtec, and just build the motor, and tune it nicely ( u can find people to tune it the right way...once)</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah its expensive, but who will spend more on maitnence? and who will be the one saying OH **** I JUST THREW A ROD THRU MY BLOCK.........hint, it doesnt have TYPE R in the name
If you want to stay simple turbo ur b18 and dont even worry about ls/vtec, and just build the motor, and tune it nicely ( u can find people to tune it the right way...once)</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah its expensive, but who will spend more on maitnence? and who will be the one saying OH **** I JUST THREW A ROD THRU MY BLOCK.........hint, it doesnt have TYPE R in the name
what kinda mods can i do with the b18c5 from the type r........ i mean, it's a vtec... so ya, i'm kinda just getting into cars now, like can u supercharge a vtec?? and intake, well vtec basically is you intake isn't it?? or does it just regulate the amount of intake and exhaust better? can u change the manifold, headers, cam, etc. Basically this is a 7 year project show car...(it's gonna take 7 years to pay off) currently i'm making 15.42 an hour, which is pretty damn decent, but that's not gonna last much longer because i'm going to school next year for pre pharm....if all goes well i'll be rich as hell once i get a job as a pharmacist and be able to continue modifying the teg....lol, incase u needed my life story n all. The engine is one of the last things i'm going to do, as it's obviously going to be the most expensive, not to mention i only have 153000 KM (95000 miles) so i'm not in that great of need of a new engine right away, it's just something that i want to look into and know my **** about so that when it comes time i know exactly what i want to do and what i'll get out of it. I'm doing some body work over the next year as my current engine has enough mods to satisfy me for now....and i know u all hate riced out tegs....but as i said, it's going to be a show car so ya... besides it's my car so ya. shut up! haha, anyways, thanx for the help and i hope somebody can come up with some great information for me. Thanx again, latez
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cooch2005 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kinda mods can i do with the b18c5 from the type r........ i mean, it's a vtec... so ya, i'm kinda just getting into cars now, like can u supercharge a vtec?? and intake, well vtec basically is you intake isn't it?? or does it just regulate the amount of intake and exhaust better? can u change the manifold, headers, cam, etc. Basically this is a 7 year project show car...(it's gonna take 7 years to pay off) currently i'm making 15.42 an hour, which is pretty damn decent, but that's not gonna last much longer because i'm going to school next year for pre pharm....if all goes well i'll be rich as hell once i get a job as a pharmacist and be able to continue modifying the teg....lol, incase u needed my life story n all. The engine is one of the last things i'm going to do, as it's obviously going to be the most expensive, not to mention i only have 153000 KM (95000 miles) so i'm not in that great of need of a new engine right away, it's just something that i want to look into and know my **** about so that when it comes time i know exactly what i want to do and what i'll get out of it. I'm doing some body work over the next year as my current engine has enough mods to satisfy me for now....and i know u all hate riced out tegs....but as i said, it's going to be a show car so ya... besides it's my car so ya. shut up! haha, anyways, thanx for the help and i hope somebody can come up with some great information for me. Thanx again, latez</TD></TR></TABLE>
depends on your goals for the car, i personally prefer N/A on honda motors.....that may not be your bowl of rice
depends on your goals for the car, i personally prefer N/A on honda motors.....that may not be your bowl of rice
thats why i said build the motor....so u wont snap rods, throw bearings..etc
Maintanence??? if u get someone that acutally can tune it right u wont have to worry about maintanence other than oil changes..etc
Again i guess it just comes down to personel preferance, and an over priced type r swap just isnt my thing....but i know everyone else loves it, maybe i'm just the 1 in a million that doesnt.
Maintanence??? if u get someone that acutally can tune it right u wont have to worry about maintanence other than oil changes..etc
Again i guess it just comes down to personel preferance, and an over priced type r swap just isnt my thing....but i know everyone else loves it, maybe i'm just the 1 in a million that doesnt.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sooo_slow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats why i said build the motor....so u wont snap rods, throw bearings..etc
Maintanence??? if u get someone that acutally can tune it right u wont have to worry about maintanence other than oil changes..etc
Again i guess it just comes down to personel preferance, and an over priced type r swap just isnt my thing....but i know everyone else loves it, maybe i'm just the 1 in a million that doesnt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you think that building it right is $2000 or less? nope, it will cost more then that, close to that of a type r swap, then you are comparing a modded engine to a STOCK one.......of course the modded engine wins
Maintanence??? if u get someone that acutally can tune it right u wont have to worry about maintanence other than oil changes..etc
Again i guess it just comes down to personel preferance, and an over priced type r swap just isnt my thing....but i know everyone else loves it, maybe i'm just the 1 in a million that doesnt.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you think that building it right is $2000 or less? nope, it will cost more then that, close to that of a type r swap, then you are comparing a modded engine to a STOCK one.......of course the modded engine wins
Im sure mostly everyone would LIKE a type r engine in their teg, but its definetly not the most practical way to go. Im gonna go with sooo_slow, he is right with what he is saying.
Point in fact is that it all relates to personal preference. Vtec is a decent way to start but so is building for boost.......listen to what these other dudes have to say and then do some research for yourself. You'll find your resolution
you have to know what you are trying to accomplish. NA or FI. b18c5 motors are great if you are gonna build an all motor due to it's high compression. so in other words, it's all about what you want.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cooch2005 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NA?? FI??</TD></TR></TABLE>
Naturally Aspirated or Force Induction
Naturally Aspirated or Force Induction
ok, gotcha.....now i was just curious....can you not supercharge the b18c5?? I'm not sure because of the vtec....but at the same time i'm pretty sure that the GTP has a vtec and can be turbo'd......so, would that not be a **** load of motor PLUS forced induction?


