AS the topic says.

I'm going to be doing this install soon and was wondering what I will be needing to do everything.

I've heard that the rear motormount is hard to get to, so will I be needing an engine hoist?

If someone has a 'how to' or a writeup for this install, please help a brotha out.

Step by step directions would do fine too

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bagarbilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AS the topic says.

I'm going to be doing this install soon and was wondering what I will be needing to do everything.

I've heard that the rear motormount is hard to get to, so will I be needing an engine hoist?

If someone has a 'how to' or a writeup for this install, please help a brotha out.

Step by step directions would do fine too </TD></TR></TABLE>

lol. make sure you have LOTS of time if you're going to do the control arm bushings yourself, even if you have access to a press. do not install the ES inner LCA bushings or trailing arms bushings; these bind when there's not enough compliance and this can cause your car to handle strangely. this odd handling does not necessarily show itself on street driving, but i wouldn't want to put something on my car that could make it unpredicatable near it's limits (emergency maneuvers/track days).

as far as tools, a 20-30 ton press, a blowtorch, a hacksaw/sawzall, and beefy chisel, a small chisel, a good size, securely mounted bench vise, a 3 poung sledge hammer, possibly a respirator/mask (breathing burning rubber is not a good thing). those are just for the control arms.

for the motor mounts, your usual spread of metric deep and shallow bodied sockets, 2-3 long extensions, 1 short (~5 in) extension, a breaker bar, a universal joint, and a big jack. the rear mount is a pain in the ***, but it's not really all that difficult.

if you don't have one already, do yourself a favor and order a helms manual. they make life much easier.

 

^^^he's just doing the motor mount inserts according to the topic title.

you'll need the normal tools. pretty much as listed above for the motor mounts.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by artifex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
for the motor mounts, your usual spread of metric deep and shallow bodied sockets, 2-3 long extensions, 1 short (~5 in) extension, a breaker bar, a universal joint, and a big jack. the rear mount is a pain in the ***, but it's not really all that difficult.

if you don't have one already, do yourself a favor and order a helms manual.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the rear mount is a little difficult, but more time consuming then anything. if you can get a friend there to help, it makes it a little easier. i ended up unbolting the rear motor mount bracket, and just slide it up out of the way so i could get to the mount itself. it took me and a friend 2 hrs to do the torque mount inserts and the rear mount insert. not too shabby. good luck, and its pretty self explanatory, and if you know your way around a car even just a little bit, you'll be fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bagarbilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AS the topic says.

I'm going to be doing this install soon and was wondering what I will be needing to do everything.

I've heard that the rear motormount is hard to get to, so will I be needing an engine hoist?

If someone has a 'how to' or a writeup for this install, please help a brotha out.

Step by step directions would do fine too </TD></TR></TABLE>
You'll need a breaker bar and a 17mm socket, and an extension or two. A hoist would be useful, but a jack with a piece of wood on top is good enough too. Literally all you need to do is remove the bolt holding the bracket to the mount, put the inserts in place, and then bolt it all back up again.

Probably the easiest way would be to unbolt the three torque mounts (1 in the rear and 2 in the front), and then place the jack under one side, remove the bolt from that engine mount, and lift that side of the engine. Put the inserts into that mount, and then bolt it back up and do the same for the other side. As for getting the inserts into the torque mounts, it would probably be easiest to just remove the actual mount (or the bracket), put them in, and then put it back together.

 

Thanks for the replies guys.

I'm not sure I follow everything here, I have to take a look at the mounts and the parts supplied.

Some pics would actually do wonders if anyone has them.

The thing is, there are zip ties and what not supplied as well. What are those used for?

 

i don't have any pictures, but it's really simple. You'll get two parts per mount. They simply fit into the gaps in the rubber bushing of each mount to brace them more securely. You don't need to remove anything, just unbolt the mount from the bracket so you can get at them. Trust me, once you get them, you'll know exactly what to do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by transpar_nt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i don't have any pictures, but it's really simple. You'll get two parts per mount. They simply fit into the gaps in the rubber bushing of each mount to brace them more securely. You don't need to remove anything, just unbolt the mount from the bracket so you can get at them. Trust me, once you get them, you'll know exactly what to do. </TD></TR></TABLE> And those little zip ties are used to hold the two halfs on the origional mount. It's as straight forward as everyone has said. If the insert doesn't belong where your trying to put it it wont slip on easy like it should..

 

So basically both the zip ties go around the insert and the motor mount? Or is there a specific way to put them on?

Thanks again for the responses! You guys have been very helpful.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bagarbilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So basically both the zip ties go around the insert and the motor mount? Or is there a specific way to put them on?

Thanks again for the responses! You guys have been very helpful. </TD></TR></TABLE>
they dont go around, they go through the motor mount. you'll figure it out i'm sure when the parts come in. and if i remember correctly, there is a little sheet of directions to clear up any questions. you'll figure it out, its easy stuff

 

heres some pictures from mine. might help you. http://repo.jackmoves.com/album172

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monicle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heres some pictures from mine. might help you. http://repo.jackmoves.com/album172</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice, do you need to order both of those kits? I'll be doing this fairly soon...

 

no you dont need to. I used the 2 seperate kits so i could stiffen all 5 mounts not just the lower torque mounts. the es kit will only come with inserts for the lower passenger and drivers mounts, and the rear tranny mount. the upper driver and upper passenger inserts are offered by prothane. the drivers side is a bitch and youll need a clamp or table vice to press in even with a good ammount of oil lubing them up.

 

Tnaks A LOT bro. That will definitely help!!!!

While I'm at it, I'll probably be insepcting my stock motor mounts to see if they are fine or not.

Any tips on how to tell if they have gone bad?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bagarbilla &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tnaks A LOT bro. That will definitely help!!!!

While I'm at it, I'll probably be insepcting my stock motor mounts to see if they are fine or not.

Any tips on how to tell if they have gone bad?</TD></TR></TABLE>You would probably know by now just from driving the car. Shakes/studders could be a sign of a bad/failing mount. As long as there isn't any tears in the rubber or major corrosion your fine. Especially because your installing the ES kit.

 

If the rubber is visably torn.... its bad. The nice thing about the inserts is that the mounts dont have to be in perfect shape or even good shape to work. They basically fill in the extra space to make it a solid mount. As long as there arent chunks somehow missing then youre good to go.

 

Gotcha. There is no vibration or shaking *thank God* however I do get some crazy wheel hop when I USED to launch, which I haven't done since it used to shake the crap out of my car.

Under normal driving, it's fine. Thanks for the heads up guys. You all have been a great help.

I'll let you know how the Install went after the weekend.

 

heh get ready for some vibration after they are installed. Not from power but just from the motor. any small rattle or squeak you had inside your car will now be a much more annoying rattle/squeak.