MEdm >jdm
interesting
any potential negative effects you think?
is it just the one bar, or multiple?
if they work nicely, whip up a couple more and sell em lol
any potential negative effects you think?
is it just the one bar, or multiple?
if they work nicely, whip up a couple more and sell em lol
Looks interesting. I wonder if the socket joint you have on there as a pivot actually assists in the reduction of the problems you were experiencing with flex. It seems like too easy of a fix LOL. Let us know some more details about the setup.
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is this just an add on you made for what looks to be the full race traction bars. from what ive seen i can't find anything like this other than for the dc2 and eg chassis. i need a set myself, but im holding off as long as i can to see if full race is going to end up making these for the crx.
there still needs to be allot of testing and this is also the first design...theres always room for improvement and this wont come out till the room is empty.
I like the idea however, being that close to the bottom of the aluminum block towards the oil pan leads me to question the strength and longevity of the mod. Why not use existing bracket holes, "a/c" for example for the base? Or create your own brace to sit up top from the strut tower to engine? Might I add that buying a set of polyurethane engine mount inserts are a great upgrade to reduce eng. flex as well.
I'm assuming you already eliminated the main enemy of your mod, wheel hop, with the traction bar. That still doesn't mean it won't break something. One bolt in aluminum doesn't seem like it will last very long. Even if it doesn't rip out, I'd say eventually the weld will fatigue to the point of cracking.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LaFawnduh »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In before the I broke something pic.</TD></TR></TABLE>
me too
me too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicDXdude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its full race traction bars. i've seen them with this option already
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this option is only on the proAM traction bars which are only made for the dc and eg chassis. the design is also different
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm assuming you already eliminated the main enemy of your mod, wheel hop, with the traction bar. That still doesn't mean it won't break something. One bolt in aluminum doesn't seem like it will last very long. Even if it doesn't rip out, I'd say eventually the weld will fatigue to the point of cracking. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the new rod will be one peice drilled and tapped on both ends. this piece was welded up for measurments and to mock up the bracket on the traction bar.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rexman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like the idea however, being that close to the bottom of the aluminum block towards the oil pan leads me to question the strength and longevity of the mod. Why not use existing bracket holes, "a/c" for example for the base? Or create your own brace to sit up top from the strut tower to engine? Might I add that buying a set of polyurethane engine mount inserts are a great upgrade to reduce eng. flex as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the bolt hole used is the lower right bolt hole for the ac compressor bracket/trq mount. im running the first gen hasport b-series mount with brand new poly inserts.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this option is only on the proAM traction bars which are only made for the dc and eg chassis. the design is also different
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm assuming you already eliminated the main enemy of your mod, wheel hop, with the traction bar. That still doesn't mean it won't break something. One bolt in aluminum doesn't seem like it will last very long. Even if it doesn't rip out, I'd say eventually the weld will fatigue to the point of cracking. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the new rod will be one peice drilled and tapped on both ends. this piece was welded up for measurments and to mock up the bracket on the traction bar.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rexman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I like the idea however, being that close to the bottom of the aluminum block towards the oil pan leads me to question the strength and longevity of the mod. Why not use existing bracket holes, "a/c" for example for the base? Or create your own brace to sit up top from the strut tower to engine? Might I add that buying a set of polyurethane engine mount inserts are a great upgrade to reduce eng. flex as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>
the bolt hole used is the lower right bolt hole for the ac compressor bracket/trq mount. im running the first gen hasport b-series mount with brand new poly inserts.
ive seen something like these, to prevent the motor moving around alot, but its a dampener.
Youve esentaily made a SOLID engine mount.
everyone knows a solid engine mount will break something eventualy.
anyways. If you can somehow use a spring or Fluid to keep the motor still, but still have a little give, it will help alot.
Youve esentaily made a SOLID engine mount.
everyone knows a solid engine mount will break something eventualy.
anyways. If you can somehow use a spring or Fluid to keep the motor still, but still have a little give, it will help alot.
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rsca_crx
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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Mar 30, 2011 05:03 AM




