87 accord alt and battery burn ups
Have a 87 accord trying to get running for a to/from work car only. It has burned out 3 alt's and drained a couple battery's. My step-dad thinks there is a short in the circut system somewhere. Would this be a matter of replacing a circut panel, maybe? Also, this may be related or not...the lights in the panel or console do not work. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
I would first start by determining if there are any components staying on (which would drain a battery). A quick test:
If you not yet own one, pick up either a twelve volt (12v) test light (usually an ice pick with a light in it and a test lead coming out of the handle) or a volt/ohm meter. Remove the negative cable from the battery and bridge between the two with either test impliment.
If there is a draw on the battery, the bulb will light up.
Starting in the engine compartment fuse panel, pull one fuse out at a time and reinstall them (one at a time) until you find one where the light goes out. That will id a circuit which is drawing voltage.
Continue this until you test all of them, including the interior fuse panel as well.
Some, such as the clock and ecm memory circuits, will draw voltage normally.
It's the others that your looking for: Glove box lamp, trunk lamp etc.
Take note of any blown fuses you may find also.
Once we determine why your battery goes dead, then we'll address your alternator problem.
P
One thing you might want to check is the hide-away headlamps. Sometimes the headlight bucket snags and won't close properly. The drive motor stays on until it's fully closed and will continue to drain the battery if it doesn't.
If you not yet own one, pick up either a twelve volt (12v) test light (usually an ice pick with a light in it and a test lead coming out of the handle) or a volt/ohm meter. Remove the negative cable from the battery and bridge between the two with either test impliment.
If there is a draw on the battery, the bulb will light up.
Starting in the engine compartment fuse panel, pull one fuse out at a time and reinstall them (one at a time) until you find one where the light goes out. That will id a circuit which is drawing voltage.
Continue this until you test all of them, including the interior fuse panel as well.
Some, such as the clock and ecm memory circuits, will draw voltage normally.
It's the others that your looking for: Glove box lamp, trunk lamp etc.
Take note of any blown fuses you may find also.
Once we determine why your battery goes dead, then we'll address your alternator problem.
P
One thing you might want to check is the hide-away headlamps. Sometimes the headlight bucket snags and won't close properly. The drive motor stays on until it's fully closed and will continue to drain the battery if it doesn't.
yo P... good advice but if i might add something instead of a test lite you need to use a amp meter..and set it at milliamp ..if it drains more than i believe .020 amps than as you suggested the fuse pulling starts..
JK have a shop test your charge system ,,even if u have a drain that should not affect the alternator output , So what do u exactly mean by burn up???
JK have a shop test your charge system ,,even if u have a drain that should not affect the alternator output , So what do u exactly mean by burn up???
Good point. I had neglected to mention that route because I haven't used it as much.
Not knowing how long this car sits idle, I had considered Parasitic Draw (ECM, Clock Etc.), but I had gotten the impression that this was a relatively quick process, and my experience with my '88 (spare car) has been that it could sit for a month and restart without problems under "normal" conditions.
This is one of those "chicken/egg" things, Did the shorted battery cell ruin the Alternator, or did the Overcharging Alternator overheat the battery. And why does it seem to keep happening.
Hopefully this story will continue
P
Not knowing how long this car sits idle, I had considered Parasitic Draw (ECM, Clock Etc.), but I had gotten the impression that this was a relatively quick process, and my experience with my '88 (spare car) has been that it could sit for a month and restart without problems under "normal" conditions.
This is one of those "chicken/egg" things, Did the shorted battery cell ruin the Alternator, or did the Overcharging Alternator overheat the battery. And why does it seem to keep happening.
Hopefully this story will continue
P
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Alex Odushkin
Honda Accord & Crosstour (2003 - 2012)
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Nov 15, 2017 07:50 PM




