OBD1 PR3 ECU chipping any different than OBD1 P28/P30/P72 chipping?
I just finished helping out a friend with his ecu, an OBD1 PR3. We were unsuccessful in getting it working, it acts as though there's no chip in the socket when the jumper is connected, when we unplug the jumper life is good on the stock map.
I'm just wondering are there more capacitors or resistors that need to be installed in the obd1 pr3 than a p28 or p30?
I noticed the black unit that sits toward the case of the ecu is missing but there is a daughterboard, i assumed that the daughterboard replaced this piece?
I double/triple checked all the solder points as well as made sure the board was clean from any debris or bits of solder on any of the leads. it's a hell of a lot cleaner than the p28 i run in my car yet it still doesn't work.
if it matters, i used a moates uberdata kit for it. (really nice kit
moates
)
if anyone has any ideas i'd be very interested to hear them
thanks in advance
-Brent
I'm just wondering are there more capacitors or resistors that need to be installed in the obd1 pr3 than a p28 or p30?
I noticed the black unit that sits toward the case of the ecu is missing but there is a daughterboard, i assumed that the daughterboard replaced this piece?
I double/triple checked all the solder points as well as made sure the board was clean from any debris or bits of solder on any of the leads. it's a hell of a lot cleaner than the p28 i run in my car yet it still doesn't work.
if it matters, i used a moates uberdata kit for it. (really nice kit
moates
) if anyone has any ideas i'd be very interested to hear them
thanks in advance
-Brent
The board should be a 1720, just like the P28, P05, and P06 ECUs made between '92 and early '94. The chipping procedure should be the same. I assume the daughter board to be the knock sensor processor.
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