The C1 I'm looking at, I've got two options. 94-95, and 96+. Would one be better than the other? My assumption is our cars would accept (more easily) the 94-95.

Also, if I can make it happen, I'd like to have A/C in there. I'm building this car for all-around, and DD. I've not had A/C on this d15, and...GOD I miss being able ot have the windows up. Plus my girl whines :D

Finally, the swap I'm taking from comes with the Power Steering pump. 1) I don't want it, 2) I don't have any of the rest of the power steering stuff to hook it up...so it's gotta go. Is it somethin' I can just bolt-off and lose the belt and it'll be good to go? Or what else would I need to do?

Think that covers it all, but I'm certain ya'll will make me have more questions.

 

yeah obd 1 is the way to go so 94-95 teggy is ur bet..... u can either make ur own custom bracket or buy the hasport one for the ac compressor but it can be done.............. the powersteering belt/pump can be taken off no problem......

also whenever ur girl "whines" just drive faster

 

I try, but a d15 with 241K on it has the pedal to the floor...you might as well be jogging :D Can't complain, she's gotten me across the country once east to west and back, and across the country south to north a couple times. I've focused all my time and money on suspension lately.

One more question, the B18C1 94-95 has a hydraulic transmission. d15, as I'm certain you know with the rex, is a cable trans. Which should I deal with, and what do I need to do make it that way? I'm probably purchasing from Osaka JDM motors, and this is all included. Or I heard somethin' about the GSR motor with...snap, either a Si or TypeR or LS transmission, I don't remember what they went with, but apparently it was better? I don't know. But let me know what I should look into going for, and what needs to be done to go there. Keep in mind I plan on some autox/SCCA club racing and such, so I have to be within any restrictions, and less fluid-level-checks are always welcomed.

Oh, and finally, what cluster did you use? The style I"m after is modified-stock, so I don't want a huge auto-meter gauge on my dash or anything...I was going to go with the SiR cluster...will this be direct plug and play with this swap? like what about the electronic speed sensor or whatever?

 

For the transmision thing I suggest getting the hydro gsr trans with lsd when you buy the swap from say hmotors. Then buy the hasport mounts that allow you to use the hydro trans in an EF. Thats the way I would go.

 

you have dpfi? man u have to convert to mpfi fisrst before you can do anything..........ok tranny, you have to use a cable tranny either INTEGRA ls/gs/rs as long as its a cable tranny for a b series

 

Yeah, dpfi. But hey, it's gotta go, so I don't mind bearing with it til I get the new toy in. Then all these people that keep revving and raping me will see whats' up. I don't revv or speed up or anything, and they take off, I'm like "wtf? yeah...you won".

Anyways, that answers that. What do you think I could get for that hydro tranny from the GSR? I'll be selling it in trade for cash for a cable. And is anything else needing to be done to switch to cable? Anything off, anything on, anything switched or adjusted?

And also, don't forget the question on the cluster if you can answer that.

Thanks for the help with install on Hydro trans, but I'd prefer cable. Thanks again.

 

ON THE cluster im not 100% sure but i beleive u can put an si cluster depending on what year you have a 88-89 are the same and 90-91 are the same. what year is ur ef? i have a 88-89 cluster if u need one 20 bucks + shipping

 

haha, I already read up on your sale. Mine is a 1991 and I'm looking for the SiR cluster. Reason being it has a higher redline. I plan on extending the 8200 of the GSR, but we'll see where we end up. Thanks, though.

 

sounds like a good setup to me...my bro once had a b18c1 in a four dour ef...that thing was very very wuick....it was turboed too witha type r head....too bad he sold it....good luck with urs bro...later

 

I put a B18C1 in a CRX-HF.

We used HASport mounts and linkage.

For the trans problem, We sold the Hydro trans for big money and bought a cable trans and had money left over. Your call there. The Hydro mounts kit were only out a few days when we did the swap. The trans is a 92-93 cable trans case with 94+ B16 trans guts and an ITR LSD with a GSR ring gear. If you run a 92-93 trans you can use 94+ clutch discs.

For the axles, I know everyone will bitch but, I used the 94+ GSR axles (they're even ABS) and intermediate shaft. I am 95% sure that 94+ axles are the same lengh as 90-93 axles but the joint on the int shaft is different. I had to change the one seal on the cable trans to run hydro axles.

For the A/C, you need a HASport AC mount.

I converted the engine harness to OBD1 so I could run the correct P72 computer. I had to add wires for knock, vtec, oil pressure, O2 heater, IABs, and speed sensor.

Now that the car is wired for speed sensor I converted the cluster plugs to run a CRX SIR cluster. I converted the SIR from metric (KPH) to MPH with a little box from Speedohealer.com. It was 4 wires to convert it to MPH and now it reads to 190mph. (<---SWEET)

It runs a stock airbox with a H22 intake arm and a CTR (2.5inch) exhaust manifold for that OEM look.

I had to have a longer fuel line made up.



Modified by JohnnieChimpo at 4:19 PM 4/11/2006

 

Jesus Christ I think I just shat myself. That's exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

 

Shameless plug: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1351585

The post above yours pretty much explains it all. I have everything you need, much cheaper than you would spend at a motor mall, with more accessories .

 

I just noticed on your car that it used to be a 4 speed. I am pretty sure that the 4 speed cars use CRX HF axles. That would mean that you would need spindles from a non Civic 4speed or HF. Any 88-91 civic will work best 2,3 or 4 door. I used 90-93 Integra spindles because of the big brakes that come with them but eventually swapped to Civic EX after listening to the hype on here. There was no noticeable difference between the two while driving(EX vs Teg). The braking between the HF and the EX/TEG was significant.


I also used 15/16 master and 1inch (ooooo ahhhhh Hype R sized) and I'm here to tell ya, if I did it all again, I would find a 15/16 master cylinder that works with my stock booster. I swapped to 90-93 Teg master and booster. The 15/16 master bolts right on. The booster, I would rather get kicked in the nuts. I was so angry I was ready to cry the night I put that on. Find yourself a 10 year old kid who can yet his little hands and arms up in under the dash and have him put it all together and you tighten the nuts. On the 1 inch DA master I made an adaptor because the ABS cars use a bigger brake line. Some guys flare an ABS fitting onto their old line, I made the adaptor so I could swap back and forth, plus there wasn't much room in the bay to cut and flare lines. I liked the feel of the 15/16 better, more controlable, like pounding in a nail with a huge hammer vs. a normal hammer.

I know it is obvious but I think it needs said. If you buy your engine and it is still in the car, START IT AND MAKE IT RUN. My buddy and I swapped out the CRX engine and put the GSR in. It took one night. Only thing that wasn't done was header hooked to the exhaust, needed welding. We turned the key and it didn't start. Could it be the wiring? The engine? The starter? Timing belt? ........ It took two days to check everything. Plug wires were on wrong order and the coil was bad.

Also if you have an 89 HF, use an 89 HF wiring harness to swap your engine. If you can, use the harness that is in your car now. we had some pipe dream of keeping the HF engine complete so if we wanted to swap back we could. I used a 90 HF harness because someone on here said HF=HF. I spent a week of testing wires from sensors to the ECU to find 4 that were different. Once I repinned them the CEL went out and the Vtec would come on.


Something else to think about is, the hood is dented from rubbing the valve cover and it makes the cover look like **** (hood too). I may lower the engine with 1/8" thick washers in the side motor mounts. You could cut the webbing out of the hood and/or raise the hood with some washers.

We've had it up to 145+ and it was still pulling but was nearly redlined. It'll chirp 3rd. Handles fine but is killing the OEM suspension on the front. It feels quick but I bet it's only running a mid 14.



Modified by JohnnieChimpo at 4:26 PM 4/11/2006

 

Even more outstanding information...

On the axles, that explains SO much. I had the 4spd std originally, but then swapped into a 5spd. I never had to change my axles, but for some reason when I went into Autozone for a replacement CV axle, it had t be from a CRx HF, and not a civic hatch. So I think this also explains the mystery of the transmission because when I bout it, all he said was it was out of a civ/rex, but never specified anything, and said that he couldn't. After the install, I needed a part (throwout bearing) and ordered one for the civic 5spd, and it wouldn't fit. I had several shops run the serial number and code, but nothing was ever found. So I now know where the trans is from, this rocks.

As for the 15/16, I am looking to do the EX4dr swap into the front of my 1991 hatch. Will the 15/16 not bolt directly to the booster I have now? I'm planning to get an NOS/OEM booster when I do the full brake system, so it'd be nice to know what I need to do to hook this setup up.

Suspension isn't fully completed, YET. But thus far it's Skunk2 RACING coils all aorund, KYB AGX in the rear, ChassisTech camber kit in the front. I'm looking at my next purchase being the 3pt strut bar from Password, matching struts in front, and EM Racing rear strut bar, susp tech sways (FandR) and then my suspension will be done for a while. Once the interior's in, I'll be having a custom roll cage built for it for autox. Can't wait.

Again, 91 hatch...what should I do with the wiring harness? I was slightly confused by your post, but I think I've caught the gist of it.

As for the front crossmember, I've not heard yet of swapping this out. Details, please?

The hood I'm already planning ot get the USDM-JDM SiR hood from Password (where it comes up in the middle instead of down) so this SHOULD solve that problem. I've heard this-and-that's on the topic, so this hood should fix all.

 

check out ryans page :
http://www.norcalcrx.org/droppedcrxsi/

it has a very comprehensive b18c1 (and b16) swap guide with step-bystep

As for the wiring harness, here comes the plug, http://www.rywire.com . send him your stock harness and money and he will custom fab you one that will plug and play onto your GSR. also has just about everything you need for mpfi conversion.

As for the crossmember, stock is fine, unless you plan to run jdm4-1's or run a turbo with huge downpipe.

In that case, ful-race.com has VERY nice traction bars.

Jimfab.com also has nice traction bars, but they wont clear jdm4-1

 

Also, if/when you get your motor, I'ver heard lots of bad things about osaka motors. I've seen a motor from hmotorsonline and it was spotless and looked brand new. Also, I think importautosalvage is somewhere in the southeast so I would def give them a call. I hear they are good people to work with.

Since you're going to have to swap knuckles you might as well buy DA knuckles so you can run the bigger DA brakes. If you don't want to then I'll buy some DA knuckles and sell you my DX knuckles for about the same price I find some DA knuckles

 

On the Civic hubs and weird trans check this thread.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1355561

On the master cylinder, I've read on here that the EX master cylinder bolts right to the Civic booster but I have never done it so I don't know for sure.

Changing the booster, even to a new one, is a pain in the ***.

On the wiring harness, you'll need to convert to MPFI. There are links on here giving instructions on how to do it and there are also guys on here who will do it for you for money. I've never done it so I don't know what's involved. Once you are MPFI you'll need to convert to OBD1. I made a harness to convert my ECU harness to OBD1 but it was a PITA. You can find them for $100 if you look for them.

On the engine you buy, OBD2 engines will be newer with less mileage. As far as I know they are the same, with the exception of a few plugs, as an OBD1 engine. An OBD2 engine also has a few more sensors than an OBD1 engine. If you control the OBD2 engine with an OBD1 computer, you just leave those sensors unhooked. My understanding of OBD2 ECUs is that they are fussier than OBD1 ECUs, more Check Engine Lights, more sensors, and not chippable, plus I've never heard of an OBD0 to OBD2 ECU harness.


On the front crossmember, there are guys making them out of lighter tubing, plus they usually add more traction.


I am looking for an SIR style hood too but be aware, there are two styles. One is "JDM SIR" which will need a special radiator support, front bumper and headlights. The other is USDM SIR which is just a hood that bolts right on. The "USDM SIR" hood is a custom made thing, usually made from carbon fiber or fiberglass, it was never actually made by Honda.

 

once you take that d15 sohc out... send it to me... AND ill pay shipping because im a nice guy

 

I only got a chance to skim your thread, but I'll look into the website.

Your advice is to get an OBD1 ecu with OBD1 wiring harness and OBD2 engine with OBD1 -> OBD2 hookup? Or is it a whole harness?All is plug and play?

For the hood you're looking for, I am familiar with it. Check into Passwordjdm.com to find that hood for I think it's 389 + 100 shipped to my area? Again, goin' on memory, and that's not that great, haha. Also, they're supplied by VIS sports, found at VISRacing.com I've seen some other various sites to carry it, but I don't recall them. Good luck.

check back, I may post more on this topic when I get a chance to read in depth.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by driveahonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">once you take that d15 sohc out... send it to me... AND ill pay shipping because im a nice guy</TD></TR></TABLE>Haha, why do you want the D15? It's a D15B1 with just-rolled 241K, decently new clutch, CRx HF 5spd cable trans. Rebuilt by me 183 with new rings, rod bearings, completely-re-done head, honed cylinder walls. All new seals and gaskets with the exception of Crank seals, which are still pretty good. This thing's been taken ot the mountains and holds it's ground. It's strong as hell for what it is. I was thinking of taking it and building the eff out of it, just to see what I can do with it and how far I can push it, but if you make a better deal than me having to keep it around the house and such, I'm down for it. Shipping from ATL; 30188 if you wanted to check further into that. But the engine won't go til I get the new one, and I wasn't planning to do that until late-winter-early-spring.

 

The hood is the least of your worries. That $489 dollars could be well spent on a good clutch/flywheel setup for your motor. If you're worried about the clearance, just use washers to either make the motor sit lower, or at the hinges of the hood so it will sit higher. This is what I had to do to my car since I didn't want to buy a new hood. You could also cut the subframe out of the hood but that looks ghetto to me.

 

Clutch and flywheel?


Why? The clutch on a GSR was OEM on a car that weighs ~600lbs more than the Civic it's going into. Unless he boosts his power way up or starts drag racing it's money wasted. I use the OEM '95 GSR clutch on mine because it only had 40K miles on it. It has never slipped and I chip 3rd gear.

 

Frankly I wouldn't trust any kind of used clutch. Money wasted? I'd rather have a new clutch that will last for the next years to come than a shiny CF hood. All I'm saying is that since the motor's already out of the car it's easier to replace it now and he'll appreciate it more later down the road.

 

I had already planned to swap the clutch and have the flywheel either machined or replaced. Yeah, money is the issue, and I may just end up going hoodless for a short while. Or just throw cardboard between the valve cover and hood. What's ghetto? :D