JDM-spec Fujitsubo RM-01A exhaust on a USDM EP3 (lots of pics)
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JDM-spec Fujitsubo RM-01A exhaust on a USDM EP3 (lots of pics)
So, after finding out that a JDM catback exhaust designed for the Type-R Civic would bolt up to the Si by using a stock RSX Type-S header, downpipe, and catalytic convertor (no adapter or cutting needed), I started doing some more shopping around. I had pretty much narrowed down my choices to a couple catback systems, bought the RSX parts ahead of time, and finally put on my RM-01A exhaust last week.
So, off to the nearby Air Force base's auto shop I went (gotta love access to lifts & tons of tools!), and thanks to a bit of help from one of the shop workers, the install came out fine. Any further pointers would be appreciated, too -- this is my first exhaust install, and the first sports exhaust on any car of mine.
Starting from the front:
Here's where the header meets the downpipe. The K20A3 motors in the Si and base RSX have a four-bolt mounting bracket for the header; the Type-S's K20A2 uses a two-bolt bracket, visible just to the left of the header-downpipe connection. You'd need to purchase that bracket, and you can use the same bolts to mount it.
The RSX K20A3 uses basically the same 4-bolt bracket as our EP's. Unbolt it from the block, and bolt up the A2's bracket to the hole on the left. It's easy -- you won't be able to install it wrong.
PS - I don't know anything about the VTEC solenoid valve; I don't think I saw one during my installation. You'll be able to figure out how to remove the halfshaft cover, though -- it's a black shield that surrounds the halfshaft, and it's just in the way of getting to some of the exhaust bolts.
The downpipe-cat assembly is longer than the Si's, so the wires for the O2 sensors end up just barely reaching far enough. I'll probably need to extend mine, either by splicing some extensions or finding plugs & sockets to do the same job. But, they fit into the cat, and the ECU reads them just fine.
EDIT****
You'll see several posts down the thread where civicvtec1ps recommends getting some O2 sensor wire extensions from Casper Electronics. I called 'em up and had them make a 6" set -- much better than the 12" they usually carry, but they're still kinda long. I may either figure out how to shorten these or order a 3" set. Anyway, here's how they look now:
Here's the product page at Casper Electronics for the O2 wire extension. DO NOT buy the 12" version -- call them up personally and speak to somebody about getting a shorter extension. If they can make one with 2 or 3 inches of wire, it'll be a nearly perfect fit. You need to buy two extensions (well, duh.. lol)
https://www.casperselectronics...honda
END EDIT
Connection from the Type-S cat to the RM-01A midpipe (new gasket is included with the RM-01A) -
Resonator section of the RM-01A midpipe -
Here's the connection between the midpipe and axleback. The stock parts had nuts welded onto the midpipe, and the spring bolts screwed into those nuts. The RM-01A came with two bolts, two washers, two springs, and four nuts -- none welded to the midpipe. So, I tightened the spring bolts all the way down onto one nut each, then used the other two nuts to lock them into place. I think this will work; if there's a more reliable way, let me know.
**update June '06** See how the hanger rods are actually hollow tubes? They're hollow primarily to save weight, but an added bonus is that they make it easy to stick a screwdriver in one end and bend the tubing.
I've recently gained access to a reserved, underground parking spot at work, and the top of the entry/exit ramp had been scraping my midpipe every time, even if I crossed the hump at an angle. Yesterday, I put the car up again, poked a Philips screwdriver into each of this section's hanger arms (the ones that ride in the rubber hanger on top), and pulled down in an effort to tweak the tubing a little closer to the resonator section.
The procedure had the effect of raising the center section of the exhaust, even if by just a small amount. However, it was enough to raise the midpipe far enough to clear the garage entrance ramp today.
/end edit
Muffler (duh.. lol). The hanger arms are welded to a strap, which in turn clamps around the muffler. The muffler has a little nub that fits into a hole in the strap; make sure it does as you tighten it down, because this is how it's aligned. I think I prefer this mounting style to having the hangers welded directly to the muffler, too.
More muffler pics:
The facilities (actually the smaller of the two buildings) :
... the obligatory straight-back pic:
... and the nicer shot:
**** Sound Clip!***
It's just revving while parked, though. At least you'll get an idea of how buzz-free it is.
Click here
Anyway... make sense?
Modified by BarracksSi at 7:41 PM 9/22/2005
Modified by BarracksSi at 8:05 PM 9/24/2005
Modified by BarracksSi at 9:36 AM 11/13/2005
Modified by BarracksSi at 9:37 AM 11/13/2005
Modified by BarracksSi at 10:01 AM 6/16/2006
So, off to the nearby Air Force base's auto shop I went (gotta love access to lifts & tons of tools!), and thanks to a bit of help from one of the shop workers, the install came out fine. Any further pointers would be appreciated, too -- this is my first exhaust install, and the first sports exhaust on any car of mine.
Starting from the front:
Here's where the header meets the downpipe. The K20A3 motors in the Si and base RSX have a four-bolt mounting bracket for the header; the Type-S's K20A2 uses a two-bolt bracket, visible just to the left of the header-downpipe connection. You'd need to purchase that bracket, and you can use the same bolts to mount it.
The RSX K20A3 uses basically the same 4-bolt bracket as our EP's. Unbolt it from the block, and bolt up the A2's bracket to the hole on the left. It's easy -- you won't be able to install it wrong.
PS - I don't know anything about the VTEC solenoid valve; I don't think I saw one during my installation. You'll be able to figure out how to remove the halfshaft cover, though -- it's a black shield that surrounds the halfshaft, and it's just in the way of getting to some of the exhaust bolts.
The downpipe-cat assembly is longer than the Si's, so the wires for the O2 sensors end up just barely reaching far enough. I'll probably need to extend mine, either by splicing some extensions or finding plugs & sockets to do the same job. But, they fit into the cat, and the ECU reads them just fine.
EDIT****
You'll see several posts down the thread where civicvtec1ps recommends getting some O2 sensor wire extensions from Casper Electronics. I called 'em up and had them make a 6" set -- much better than the 12" they usually carry, but they're still kinda long. I may either figure out how to shorten these or order a 3" set. Anyway, here's how they look now:
Here's the product page at Casper Electronics for the O2 wire extension. DO NOT buy the 12" version -- call them up personally and speak to somebody about getting a shorter extension. If they can make one with 2 or 3 inches of wire, it'll be a nearly perfect fit. You need to buy two extensions (well, duh.. lol)
https://www.casperselectronics...honda
END EDIT
Connection from the Type-S cat to the RM-01A midpipe (new gasket is included with the RM-01A) -
Resonator section of the RM-01A midpipe -
Here's the connection between the midpipe and axleback. The stock parts had nuts welded onto the midpipe, and the spring bolts screwed into those nuts. The RM-01A came with two bolts, two washers, two springs, and four nuts -- none welded to the midpipe. So, I tightened the spring bolts all the way down onto one nut each, then used the other two nuts to lock them into place. I think this will work; if there's a more reliable way, let me know.
**update June '06** See how the hanger rods are actually hollow tubes? They're hollow primarily to save weight, but an added bonus is that they make it easy to stick a screwdriver in one end and bend the tubing.
I've recently gained access to a reserved, underground parking spot at work, and the top of the entry/exit ramp had been scraping my midpipe every time, even if I crossed the hump at an angle. Yesterday, I put the car up again, poked a Philips screwdriver into each of this section's hanger arms (the ones that ride in the rubber hanger on top), and pulled down in an effort to tweak the tubing a little closer to the resonator section.
The procedure had the effect of raising the center section of the exhaust, even if by just a small amount. However, it was enough to raise the midpipe far enough to clear the garage entrance ramp today.
/end edit
Muffler (duh.. lol). The hanger arms are welded to a strap, which in turn clamps around the muffler. The muffler has a little nub that fits into a hole in the strap; make sure it does as you tighten it down, because this is how it's aligned. I think I prefer this mounting style to having the hangers welded directly to the muffler, too.
More muffler pics:
The facilities (actually the smaller of the two buildings) :
... the obligatory straight-back pic:
... and the nicer shot:
**** Sound Clip!***
It's just revving while parked, though. At least you'll get an idea of how buzz-free it is.
Click here
Anyway... make sense?
Modified by BarracksSi at 7:41 PM 9/22/2005
Modified by BarracksSi at 8:05 PM 9/24/2005
Modified by BarracksSi at 9:36 AM 11/13/2005
Modified by BarracksSi at 9:37 AM 11/13/2005
Modified by BarracksSi at 10:01 AM 6/16/2006
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Bad part about the sound -- it can be boomy & resonant around 3000-3700 RPM, which is right about highway speed. At those speeds, it's quiet under part throttle, a little louder when coasting downhill, and loudest when going uphill. If you want to hear any bass from the audio system, you'll have to add a sub, because it's nearly loud enough to drown out bass from the stock system.
Everything else about the sound is very nice. From outside the car, it's not buzzy at all (seriously -- not one bit), and it's just not that loud. It's deep, but subdued, and sounds really "well-tuned" (if that's even a legitimate characteristic). It burbles a little bit when releasing the throttle, but it doesn't cough & spit. It makes a nice "vroomy" sound when you spin up the engine, turning into a kind of "whoosh" in the upper rpm's.
Honestly, unless you know what to listen for, it almost sounds stock. It's just got that extra little bit that makes it sound interesting, like a bystander would go, "Ooh, that's nice." It's much more mellow than you'd think just by looking at it.
Everything else about the sound is very nice. From outside the car, it's not buzzy at all (seriously -- not one bit), and it's just not that loud. It's deep, but subdued, and sounds really "well-tuned" (if that's even a legitimate characteristic). It burbles a little bit when releasing the throttle, but it doesn't cough & spit. It makes a nice "vroomy" sound when you spin up the engine, turning into a kind of "whoosh" in the upper rpm's.
Honestly, unless you know what to listen for, it almost sounds stock. It's just got that extra little bit that makes it sound interesting, like a bystander would go, "Ooh, that's nice." It's much more mellow than you'd think just by looking at it.
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From: Burlington, NJ, USA
Re: JDM-spec Fujitsubo RM-01A exhaust on a USDM EP3 (BarracksSi)
UGH!!! Why did someone have to go and Show me pics of my ALL TIME FAVORITE EXHAUST on the car that i'm driving now!!! 
I had the RM-01a on my 93 Si Hatch and I loved it in EVERY aspect. I really do wish i had the $$$ to get another one for my EP3.... 
Very beautiful...
I had the RM-01a on my 93 Si Hatch and I loved it in EVERY aspect. I really do wish i had the $$$ to get another one for my EP3.... Very beautiful...
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Re: (sk8flex)
lol... I only have the cash for stuff like this each spring (having a mortgage counts a lot towards tax refunds).
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sk8flex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can we get a short video clip or sound file?
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, but only when I make one that I'm satisfied with. I did one on my digital camera yesterday, but it's pretty distorted, and doesn't sound very much at all what it sounds like in person. I'll try again sometime with the camera further away; the volume won't distort, but it might still just be so-so quality. I do want to end up with something fairly comprehensive, though -- I'll post it up when I get it done.
Somewhere around the web is a windows media file called exhaustcatalog.wmv -- it has probably a dozen exhausts on a DC5-R, going from stock to Mugen to the RM-01A and Legalis-R, and to much louder exhausts like one from J's Racing. Also, Fujitsubo has sound samples on their website as RealPlayer files; they're pretty informative.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sk8flex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can we get a short video clip or sound file?
</TD></TR></TABLE>Yes, but only when I make one that I'm satisfied with. I did one on my digital camera yesterday, but it's pretty distorted, and doesn't sound very much at all what it sounds like in person. I'll try again sometime with the camera further away; the volume won't distort, but it might still just be so-so quality. I do want to end up with something fairly comprehensive, though -- I'll post it up when I get it done.
Somewhere around the web is a windows media file called exhaustcatalog.wmv -- it has probably a dozen exhausts on a DC5-R, going from stock to Mugen to the RM-01A and Legalis-R, and to much louder exhausts like one from J's Racing. Also, Fujitsubo has sound samples on their website as RealPlayer files; they're pretty informative.
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Re: (mister x)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mister x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What's the tip diameter? Nice sleeper look unlike the big *** megaphones on some mufflers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The very end of the tip is about 9 cm, or 3.5" across. The hole in the center of the muffler looks like it's probably 2-1/2 inches, same as the rest of the tubing.
The very end of the tip is about 9 cm, or 3.5" across. The hole in the center of the muffler looks like it's probably 2-1/2 inches, same as the rest of the tubing.
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: ths oc, ca, emerica
i like that exhaust on ur car. im plannin on buyin a ep3 soon, it will be the first car i plan on tuning so my knowledge of cars is little to none. are there any other parts you can use besides the dc5 rsx parts u listen above? thnx all the info helps im tryin to learn as much as i can about the ep3
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Re: (DankityStankity)
Thanks, guys (good eye, ESDMEJ20.. lol) --
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DankityStankity »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... are there any other parts you can use besides the dc5 rsx parts u listed above? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Anything made for the RSX-S, such as race headers and whatnot, would be able to fit. You should also be able to use JDM CTR or DC5-R parts, too, like the Mugen header/cat combo or even the OEM ITR 4-2-1-downpipe assembly (I've only seen one pic, but it looked pretty cool.
You'll only need to use such parts if you're going with a JDM-length catback system (Fujitsubo, Mugen twin-loop, etc). Additionally, these header & cat parts will be too long for a catback that's designed for the USDM Si.
Summary: JDM catbacks are shorter, because the K20A and K20A2 motors' header-thru-cat sections are longer. USDM catbacks are longer because the K20A3 motor's header-thru-cat section is shorter.
As a bonus, the RSX-S header & cat are of a larger diameter, from the runners through the end of the cat. It matches very well with the bigger RM-01A system.
Almost two weeks with it now, and I ******' dig it. I stopped by the dealer for an oil change this afternoon, and as they drove it around back, I just had to stand around to hear it. Its sound is noticeable -- but it isn't. Weird, I know. It's got this subtle aggressiveness that carries well but somehow doesn't draw attention. I haven't noticed any casual bystanders giving a second glance, not even the few dozen cops that are posted around my area.
Performance-wise, it's got some spunk. I'm guessing that it's gained a bit through most of the RPM range. It keeps it up all the way to redline, and doesn't seem to have given away any response. Pretty darned cool.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DankityStankity »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... are there any other parts you can use besides the dc5 rsx parts u listed above? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Anything made for the RSX-S, such as race headers and whatnot, would be able to fit. You should also be able to use JDM CTR or DC5-R parts, too, like the Mugen header/cat combo or even the OEM ITR 4-2-1-downpipe assembly (I've only seen one pic, but it looked pretty cool.
You'll only need to use such parts if you're going with a JDM-length catback system (Fujitsubo, Mugen twin-loop, etc). Additionally, these header & cat parts will be too long for a catback that's designed for the USDM Si.
Summary: JDM catbacks are shorter, because the K20A and K20A2 motors' header-thru-cat sections are longer. USDM catbacks are longer because the K20A3 motor's header-thru-cat section is shorter.
As a bonus, the RSX-S header & cat are of a larger diameter, from the runners through the end of the cat. It matches very well with the bigger RM-01A system.
Almost two weeks with it now, and I ******' dig it. I stopped by the dealer for an oil change this afternoon, and as they drove it around back, I just had to stand around to hear it. Its sound is noticeable -- but it isn't. Weird, I know. It's got this subtle aggressiveness that carries well but somehow doesn't draw attention. I haven't noticed any casual bystanders giving a second glance, not even the few dozen cops that are posted around my area.
Performance-wise, it's got some spunk. I'm guessing that it's gained a bit through most of the RPM range. It keeps it up all the way to redline, and doesn't seem to have given away any response. Pretty darned cool.
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Re: (DankityStankity)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DankityStankity »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so any rsx/rsx-s bolt-ons will fit the ep3 motor? dope</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not the catback systems; just from the header to the end of the catalytic convertor. Everything after that is different enough to require modification.
You'd need the new header bracket for sure, though.
My intent, really, is to have the best parts in place in case I decide to go through with a motor or head swap. If I don't, I figure that I'll still have good stuff on the car.
Not the catback systems; just from the header to the end of the catalytic convertor. Everything after that is different enough to require modification.
You'd need the new header bracket for sure, though.
My intent, really, is to have the best parts in place in case I decide to go through with a motor or head swap. If I don't, I figure that I'll still have good stuff on the car.
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From: western, PA
Re: (BarracksSi)
First off, nice job i like it.
Next, did u take car of that O2 sensor situation yet? Look into that before u start doing anything w/ it, but def fix that up for your sake.
If you say that the wires are real tight u might be able to get some more play out of the harness, or something. Exhaust and header etc will be banging around and u dont want those wires getting pulled on.
I dont know about splicing in wires for an O2 sensor, You gotta be careful not to change the resistance because thats gonna def effect how your car runs and its important that it gets the proper voltage.
Next, did u take car of that O2 sensor situation yet? Look into that before u start doing anything w/ it, but def fix that up for your sake.
If you say that the wires are real tight u might be able to get some more play out of the harness, or something. Exhaust and header etc will be banging around and u dont want those wires getting pulled on.
I dont know about splicing in wires for an O2 sensor, You gotta be careful not to change the resistance because thats gonna def effect how your car runs and its important that it gets the proper voltage.
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Re: (Used2beAb16)
No, haven't taken care of the O2 sensor wires yet.
One of the other EP guys who did the same thing spliced in wire extensions, and another sourced a set of plugs and fabricated a short extender piece. Neither of them have had any problems so far.
I'd much prefer to not hack into the existing wires, but it may be a pain to find those plugs by themselves. Think they might be shared by other Hondas?
One of the other EP guys who did the same thing spliced in wire extensions, and another sourced a set of plugs and fabricated a short extender piece. Neither of them have had any problems so far.
I'd much prefer to not hack into the existing wires, but it may be a pain to find those plugs by themselves. Think they might be shared by other Hondas?
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Re: (BarracksSi)
https://www.casperselectronics...honda
That's just like the one they provide with dc race header setup, just plugs into original o2 sensor harness.
12" should be more than long enough for rsx s cat setup.
Fix it quick asap, if you rip one of those sensors, they will cost you money.
-Paul-
That's just like the one they provide with dc race header setup, just plugs into original o2 sensor harness.
12" should be more than long enough for rsx s cat setup.
Fix it quick asap, if you rip one of those sensors, they will cost you money.
-Paul-
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Re: (BarracksSi)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BarracksSi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Almost two weeks with it now, and I ******' dig it. I stopped by the dealer for an oil change this afternoon, and as they drove it around back, I just had to stand around to hear it. Its sound is noticeable -- but it isn't. Weird, I know. It's got this subtle aggressiveness that carries well but somehow doesn't draw attention. I haven't noticed any casual bystanders giving a second glance, not even the few dozen cops that are posted around my area.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the one thing that i liked best about the Fujitsubo RM-01a, it's one of the best (best IMO) exhaust systems on the market but keeps a low profile in sound and appearence. When i had it on my '93 Si it emitted like a really deep tone, and sounded like it had a slight "buzz" that even at 3000 RPMs it was setting off car alarms but still sounded quiet. It was the coolest thing ever
I <3 Fujitsubo
Almost two weeks with it now, and I ******' dig it. I stopped by the dealer for an oil change this afternoon, and as they drove it around back, I just had to stand around to hear it. Its sound is noticeable -- but it isn't. Weird, I know. It's got this subtle aggressiveness that carries well but somehow doesn't draw attention. I haven't noticed any casual bystanders giving a second glance, not even the few dozen cops that are posted around my area.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's the one thing that i liked best about the Fujitsubo RM-01a, it's one of the best (best IMO) exhaust systems on the market but keeps a low profile in sound and appearence. When i had it on my '93 Si it emitted like a really deep tone, and sounded like it had a slight "buzz" that even at 3000 RPMs it was setting off car alarms but still sounded quiet. It was the coolest thing ever
I <3 Fujitsubo
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Re: (civicvtec1ps)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicvtec1ps »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://www.casperselectronics...honda
That's just like the one they provide with dc race header setup, just plugs into original o2 sensor harness.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Casper was much easier to talk with than DC, so they got my order for a couple custom 6" extensions; just enough to take care of it without letting it dangle. Sweet!
Thanks for the tip.
That's just like the one they provide with dc race header setup, just plugs into original o2 sensor harness.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Casper was much easier to talk with than DC, so they got my order for a couple custom 6" extensions; just enough to take care of it without letting it dangle. Sweet!
Thanks for the tip.
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Re: (djvtoner)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by djvtoner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's the one thing that i liked best about the Fujitsubo RM-01a, it's one of the best (best IMO) exhaust systems on the market but keeps a low profile in sound and appearence. When i had it on my '93 Si it emitted like a really deep tone, and sounded like it had a slight "buzz" that even at 3000 RPMs it was setting off car alarms but still sounded quiet. It was the coolest thing ever
I <3 Fujitsubo </TD></TR></TABLE>
Newest cool thing I've noticed -- it gets quiet above 80-85 mph in 5th gear.
Dammit, I want someone to drive it around the block a few times while I just stand there on the sidewalk and listen.. lol
I <3 Fujitsubo </TD></TR></TABLE>
Newest cool thing I've noticed -- it gets quiet above 80-85 mph in 5th gear.
Dammit, I want someone to drive it around the block a few times while I just stand there on the sidewalk and listen.. lol