what motor oil
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
stick with 10w 30 - do synthetic
Preludes need oil with great viscosity <--if i spelled that correctly -
15w 50 won't help
If your weather conditions are pretty fair - and the 15w 50 is cheaper - you can go for it i guess......
Preludes need oil with great viscosity <--if i spelled that correctly -
15w 50 won't help
If your weather conditions are pretty fair - and the 15w 50 is cheaper - you can go for it i guess......
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From: Respek my Fresh
Re: (NaptownKing)
mobil seems to be waaay overpriced these days. I'm thinking about switching to something else. My buddy's dad has an old work truck about to turn 450,000 miles that's been running havoline its whole life, i've been thinking about switching.
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Coventry, RI, US
I have been running Mobil 1 synthetic 10w 30 since I bought my car and have never had any problems, but now that I'm swapping inthe H22 I'm thinking about switching to Royal Purple because I have heard nothing but good things and it's around the same price.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: what motor oil (2quik)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 2quik »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i been using mobil 1 10w 30, hows the 15w50?</TD></TR></TABLE>
any reason why you'd want to run such a thick oil?
i might run it in 120 degree weather at the track for an enduro, but for driving to work, 10w30 is great.
Mobil 1, RP, Redline, Amsoil are all fine motor oils. Remember 3000 mile oil changes = waste of money and perfectly good oil. Run em to 7500 or more.
any reason why you'd want to run such a thick oil?
i might run it in 120 degree weather at the track for an enduro, but for driving to work, 10w30 is great.
Mobil 1, RP, Redline, Amsoil are all fine motor oils. Remember 3000 mile oil changes = waste of money and perfectly good oil. Run em to 7500 or more.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: what motor oil (tommyd)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tommyd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">even as a daily driver? would you go somewhere in between like 5K miles?</TD></TR></TABLE>
especially for a daily driver. for purely track cars, the interval becomes something like 2 or 3 events between oil changes.
even at 7500 the oil itself is fine, it's the filter that needs replacing. The oil itself is probably good to 10,000 or 12,000 miles. If you're topping off the crankcase because your h22 is leaking oil (which it probably is) you could probably go 15,000 miles before changing the oil. That said, it's probably easiest to change it all (oil and filter) at 7500.
If you're really interested on what's going on with your motor oil, send samples off to blackstone labs for analysis.
especially for a daily driver. for purely track cars, the interval becomes something like 2 or 3 events between oil changes.
even at 7500 the oil itself is fine, it's the filter that needs replacing. The oil itself is probably good to 10,000 or 12,000 miles. If you're topping off the crankcase because your h22 is leaking oil (which it probably is) you could probably go 15,000 miles before changing the oil. That said, it's probably easiest to change it all (oil and filter) at 7500.
If you're really interested on what's going on with your motor oil, send samples off to blackstone labs for analysis.
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From: The District, DC, United States of America
Interesting - the Prelude manual says 7500 for oil changes for normal "operation" and says the filter should be changed every other oil change (i.e. 15k Miles).
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: The Wizard Of Oz, State Rd 1505, Section 8
Yeah - we chose not to listen to them.........
I know the new beemers say like 8k or something for an oil change.......
There's no way oil can work properly after 8k miles..........
Its supposed to clean, lubricate, and cool(sometimes) - if its traveling around the engine for 8,000 miles, how does it ever get clean?
I know the new beemers say like 8k or something for an oil change.......
There's no way oil can work properly after 8k miles..........
Its supposed to clean, lubricate, and cool(sometimes) - if its traveling around the engine for 8,000 miles, how does it ever get clean?
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: (NaptownKing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NaptownKing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah - we chose not to listen to them.........
I know the new beemers say like 8k or something for an oil change.......
There's no way oil can work properly after 8k miles..........
Its supposed to clean, lubricate, and cool(sometimes) - if its traveling around the engine for 8,000 miles, how does it ever get clean?</TD></TR></TABLE>
New bimmers, depending on the engine, can go something like 15,000 or 20,000 mi b/w oil changes.
Oil can do it's job with 8,000 miles on it, and do it perfectly well. 8000 miles is nothing for a synthetic oil.
I know the new beemers say like 8k or something for an oil change.......
There's no way oil can work properly after 8k miles..........
Its supposed to clean, lubricate, and cool(sometimes) - if its traveling around the engine for 8,000 miles, how does it ever get clean?</TD></TR></TABLE>
New bimmers, depending on the engine, can go something like 15,000 or 20,000 mi b/w oil changes.
Oil can do it's job with 8,000 miles on it, and do it perfectly well. 8000 miles is nothing for a synthetic oil.
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From: Little Falls, NY, US
Re: (bad-monkey)
I change my oil every 5k miles using synthetic, and 3k in all my cars that I've run dino juice in. I've the argument for using longer change intervals and it's pretty convincing, at least for synthetic oils. The regular oils break down a lot faster if I have been understanding what I read.
As far as what particular brand to use, all synthetics will do you good. I use German Castrol in my H22. It's Castrol Syntec 0w-30, SOLD AT AUTOZONE. If you buy it anywhere else or any other weight it's not GC. You have to check the back of the bottle though, cause sometimes they run out and have the US stuff. It should say "Made in Germany" right on the back of the bottle.
Other than that Mobil 1 is definately second although a lot of cars seem to use more oil when they switch to it.
As far as what particular brand to use, all synthetics will do you good. I use German Castrol in my H22. It's Castrol Syntec 0w-30, SOLD AT AUTOZONE. If you buy it anywhere else or any other weight it's not GC. You have to check the back of the bottle though, cause sometimes they run out and have the US stuff. It should say "Made in Germany" right on the back of the bottle.
Other than that Mobil 1 is definately second although a lot of cars seem to use more oil when they switch to it.
Joined: May 2005
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From: Ottawa/London, ON, Canada
Re: (mkazm83)
For all those confused about "W oil number", here's an abstract from the Motor Oil Bible:
"The first number (the "5" in 5w30) is only a relative number which basically indicates how easily it will allow an engine to "turn over" at low temperatures. It is NOT a viscosity reference. In other words, a 10w30 is NOT a 10 weight oil in cold temperatures and a 30 weight oil in warm temperatures.
In fact, since SAE viscosity classifications only apply to an oil at 100 degrees C, it doesn't even makesense to label it as a certain SAE viscosity at any temperature other than 100 degrees C.
Besides, if you thought about it for a second, it wouldn't make sense for a 10w30 oil to be a 10 weightoil in the cold and a 30 weight oil in warm temperatures."
As you can hopefully realize, the only difference you should experience between 10W and 15W is when your engine is cold.
"The first number (the "5" in 5w30) is only a relative number which basically indicates how easily it will allow an engine to "turn over" at low temperatures. It is NOT a viscosity reference. In other words, a 10w30 is NOT a 10 weight oil in cold temperatures and a 30 weight oil in warm temperatures.
In fact, since SAE viscosity classifications only apply to an oil at 100 degrees C, it doesn't even makesense to label it as a certain SAE viscosity at any temperature other than 100 degrees C.
Besides, if you thought about it for a second, it wouldn't make sense for a 10w30 oil to be a 10 weightoil in the cold and a 30 weight oil in warm temperatures."
As you can hopefully realize, the only difference you should experience between 10W and 15W is when your engine is cold.
Joined: May 2005
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From: Ottawa/London, ON, Canada
Re: (mkazm83)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mkazm83 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive got a question about viscosity. Is 5-30 better then 10-30? Im gonna be running RP</TD></TR></TABLE>
Better? only in the winter (if it gets cold where you are)
I run 10W in the summer, and 5W in the winter.
Cheers
Better? only in the winter (if it gets cold where you are)
I run 10W in the summer, and 5W in the winter.
Cheers
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From: so cal, USA
Re: (bad-monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">New bimmers, depending on the engine, can go something like 15,000 or 20,000 mi b/w oil changes.
Oil can do it's job with 8,000 miles on it, and do it perfectly well. 8000 miles is nothing for a synthetic oil. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, 8000 is nothing for synthetic, but they way i drove my car, i felt safer swapping it out earlier oh yeah, i was boosted.
Oil can do it's job with 8,000 miles on it, and do it perfectly well. 8000 miles is nothing for a synthetic oil. </TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, 8000 is nothing for synthetic, but they way i drove my car, i felt safer swapping it out earlier
oh yeah, i was boosted.
Joined: May 2005
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From: Los Angeles, CA, USA
Re: what motor oil (Demonlude)
I used Pennzoil 10w40 on my last oil change, my prelude's a 97 with over 110k miles on it. is this the best oil to use, should i use a different type or should i change to synthetic?? any info would be greatly appreciated.
