since cali suks and wont allow boost on accords....... and saving up for an h22 motor would is still a lot........ would working on the internals (cams, valves, valave springs, pistons, pulleys <--- parts intending to get) be cheaper and make (somewhat) close to the hp as an h22? the f23 has i/h/e. i know it would be more reliable and im only going to use it as a daily driver with the sleeper effect. a manual tranny is also on the list.... thnx for ur inputs.

 

from everything i read on this forum N/A with the F series is alot of money to make it fast, lack of aftermarket support for the F goin the N/A route...u'd be better off saving up for the H22

 

I agree. I read a thread once somewhere about a guy who spent close to a year and a ridiculous amount of money to build a n/a F22. He ended up with like 181 whp. Go for H22

 

cali suck and they wouldnt allow turbo and swapped motor LOL

if you doing all the internal work, do you think you just gonna roll into the smog check station and expect it to pass?

be real, if your reason for NA is to stay legal, H22 or internal work for f23 will get you crap from smog ****

 

/\ motor swaps illegal? wtf? damit! r u sure they are illegal? can i get some more statements on this?

 

cali allows swapped motors, what are you talking about? you just have to do it legally!

internal work is undetectable, no one will bust your ***** if you install higher compression pistons or a different cam because there will be no way to know.

 

My F23 has only bolt-ons and a JET tune with all emissions equipment and puts 153hp and 157ft/lbs torque to the wheels. I haven't touched the internals to bump up compression, or swap the cam, though I plan to. I forget exactly what the numbers are, but bumping the compression from 9.3 to 10.5-11.5 can easily match the H22's output (overall performance in a car). What the F series lacks in top end hp, it makes up for with low and mid-range torque. Something the H series knows nothing about.

 

F has plenty of NA potential......in fact, if built full on ***** out, it can make more power NA than an H22 can (this is coming from bisi)

the issue isnt with what can make more power -its with finding parts for the F -which can be expensive

 

so how much cheaper is it to work on the internals rather than doing an h22 swap? anyone know info on this?

 

You can get a performance kit for the F-series.

-Complete gasket set
-Cometic Head Gasket
-Ross or wiseco pistons in your choice of compression
-performance rings
-performance wrist pins
-toga main bearings
-toga rod bearings
-thrust washers
-timing belt
-expansion plugs

All for $999


That's everything you need to rebuild to a fresh motor and up your performance.

importperformanceparts.net look for engine kits.

Just a lil searching...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AFAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can get a performance kit for the F-series.

-Complete gasket set
-Cometic Head Gasket
-Ross or wiseco pistons in your choice of compression
-performance rings
-performance wrist pins
-toga main bearings
-toga rod bearings
-thrust washers
-timing belt
-expansion plugs

All for $999


That's everything you need to rebuild to a fresh motor and up your performance.

importperformanceparts.net look for engine kits.

Just a lil searching...</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats using some H aftermarket parts, is it not?

 

That's all inclusive with the kit, so I believe it's all F parts.

 

/\AFAccord.... i jus saw ur mods in ur thread. did u gut ur car of hella stuff? mines da same except auto and a sedan. do u think it could make almost the same times? ..............i need headers. other then that, good stuff

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pooMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">/\AFAccord.... i jus saw ur mods in ur thread. did u gut ur car of hella stuff? mines da same except auto and a sedan. do u think it could make almost the same times? ..............i need headers. other then that, good stuff</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course, 5-speed &gt; auto. That's a given.

With AFAccord's mods, you should hopefully hit mid-high 15s constantly.

 

Actually I only cleaned the car out so it had nothing extra to carry. A friend of mine held on to my spare and my xbox while i made my runs. Other than that, it has full interior and a few goodies (aftermarket amp, speakers, no sub, headunit, screen, power inverter, and corbeau seats). The 5-speed makes a HUGE difference in performance with this car just as Crono139 said. If i remember right, the JET tune makes a nice improvement with the automatics, since they modify the shift points, but you'd better ask them to make sure. I don't think the sedan and coupe differ much in weight stock. Mine weighs 3010 consistantly on truck scales with a quarter tank of gas. Other than that, I don't see why you wouldn't run high 15's. Point being, your tranny will be the most hindering element of your setup.


&lt;thread jack&gt;

I seriously don't understand how so many 6th gen accords run only 15's when spraying 50-70 shot of nitrous. Bad drivers? I can only imagine since I frown upon those who spray on anything other than a built N/A motor. And, it's a single "header" for your 4 cyl. Just to prevent future flaming. I'm in a slump right now, but I plan on a port/polish, bored TB, N/A cam, the kit mentioned above with higher compression, and AEM EMS to fine tune it all as soon as money allows. I'm REALLY hoping to top 200whp and 210-220wtq with that. Any thoughts?

 

/\ i wanna go on a truck scale...... (ur talkin bout on of those exits on the freeway right?)
does anyone have the unorthodox pulleys instead of the aem. doesnt the aem have an alternator pulley thats twice as big so theres less rotations to charge the battery? i was wonderin of that was the same with the unorthodox setup.....

 

Well those too, but there are some locally around here that are for moving vans and local rigs, not so much for regulation on the freeway. But yes, if you go stop on the freeway, they should weigh you. Being military, I tell them I need an empty car weight for a DITY (Do It Yourself Move).

 

is it free? and any info about the pulleys?

 

At the moving station i went to, it's like 5 bucks, cause you get a certified slip with the weight. If i remember right, it was free on the interstate. Pulleys... what do you want to know? Quite easy to install so long as you have an impact wrench to break the nuts loose. Not much of an increase. Based on what the V-force module did on the dyno, I'd say the pulley's did about the same... MAYBE 2-3 whp. But a noticeable difference you could almost feel mostly at low end, less sluggish. If anything they look better than my rusty stock pulleys.

 

What's this crap about finding parts for the F23?

Crower makes rods.
Wiseco/ROSS makes pistons.
Web Cams will grind a cam to your specs.
Gude makes a cam. Mixed reviews but never the less, they make one.
Ferrea makes valvetrain parts.
Mill the journals on the crank and you can run H22 or B-series rods.

This isn't hard guys.

 

^^^ it's still not like a B series where every manufacturer in the world makes parts, and FYI those weisco/ross pistons from the importperformanceparts.com are CUSTOM - they are not available off the shelf.

the available parts are expensive - $700 for the crower rods and good luck finding them in stock anywhere

the cams you listed are regrinds, not new cams

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AFAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pulleys... what do you want to know? Quite easy to install so long as you have an impact wrench to break the nuts loose. Not much of an increase. Based on what the V-force module did on the dyno, I'd say the pulley's did about the same... MAYBE 2-3 whp. But a noticeable difference you could almost feel mostly at low end, less sluggish. If anything they look better than my rusty stock pulleys. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i wanna know the difference between the unorthodox and aem pulleys. the alternator pulley on the aem is twice as big so theres less rotations to charge the battery. i wanted to know of the unorthodox had the same problem/concerns, considering it costs twice as much.

 

RSX pistons will work.

 

I believe the UO pulley kit is extremely aggressive. By that I mean the pulley's are much larger than AEM, further slowing down the drive of the alt and ps pump, and I think it includes a crank pulley also. WAYYYY too aggressive IMO.

 

AEM pullies are the way to go for an I4.

I'm still stuck on an exhaust now. Is it worth it to upgrade to 2.5" piping instead of 2.25" piping?

I either want the Tanabe Hyper Medallion, or want 2.25" / 2.5" SS piping from KTeller along with a Magnaflow muffler.