I searched, but couldn't come up with anything that helped.

Next week, I'm taking my ITA Civic into the shop to have the leaking main crank seals replaced. I'm figuring that since they need to drop the tranny to do this, I'd have them replace the 160,000 mile clutch and resurface the flywheel.

Currently the car has an intake, header, and will have a straight through exhaust the following week. The more or less stock power really only needs a stock clutch replacement, but I will most likely be having the motor built to ITA/H4 specs withing the next year or so.

Based on the power improvements with the eventual spec motor build, is there a aftermarket clutch worth installing to maximize torque? I know right now I only need a stock clutch with the approx. 125-130whp, but I don't want to purchase and install a stock clutch now, then a year from now find out I need a new higher capability one with the engine upgrades.

Any input will be helpful, as I am taking the car into the shop next Monday, and would like to purchase whichever clutch beforehand. TIA

 

Stock clutch is what you want. You don't want, and you don't need any "upgraded" clutch because it will transmit more shock to your drivetrain!

 

Spec sells a light weight clutch, if you wanted to save a few lbs there

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prkiller &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock clutch is what you want. You don't want, and you don't need any "upgraded" clutch because it will transmit more shock to your drivetrain! </TD></TR></TABLE>

You could go with a full face kevlar clutch. The kevlar clutch will engage and drive exactly like stock, but will be able to hold up to the extra power that you may put down in the future. There will also not be any additional stress transmitted to your drivetrain. Check out an Action 1KS.

 

I've always used the ACT stuff. In particular the heavy duty PP with street disk.

$.02.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've always used the ACT stuff. In particular the heavy duty PP with street disk.

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Same thing here

 

I love my Spec Clutch and i only have stock HP... but EVERY ounce of power gets put to the wheels...

 

Clutchmasters for me, I can't stand the ACT nonsense.

 

Stock OEM clutch will work just fine in an IT car and is what I run and have never had any problems with full ITC engine build.

 

While a stock clutch will work fine, the performance improvements from a ACT will be great. What most people don't think about is the ability to have clutch rebuilt. Down the road, say the crank seal messes up again. The disk gets contaminated with oil. You can have the whole clutch gone thru & rebuilt. Saves a bit of money.

ACT performance street disk & heavy duty pressure plate.

 

My 0.02:

1) New stock clutches are rated (typically) for 130% max engine torque, at a minimum. So you have some breathing room there.

2) High clamp-load clutches increase the load on, and therefore decrease the life of, the release system (pedal box, cable, hydraulics, etc)

3) If you can find a "unsprung" disc, meaning no torsion damper, this will reduce the possibility of something breaking on you at high RPM. Also the lighter nature of these discs makes for quicker shifts, and easier on your synchros.

4) But make sure that such a disc has "cushion" springs in it such that it is driveable!

5) DO NOT get ceramic or cerametallic facings. They chatter like mad, eat up your clutch and flywheel, and transmit HUGE torque spikes to your trans/axles.

That's all I can think of for now...

 

this is just an observation 160,000 mile motors don't last to long on the track
spending the money to replace a leaking crank seal, which might turn out to be a leaking oil pan, is a pretty big waste of money and time for the average IT racer, removing the tran's and doing this with a manual is pretty easy, the money your spending on this could go towards your new motor.

as far as clutches go, Clutch Specialties 714-525-4272 in Fullerton just tell them you want what all the other road racers are using

good luck

 

Rebuilding a clutch? Why wouldn't you just buy a new disc?

 

I like my Spec Stage 3 clutch and PP. It is sprung.

Barry H

 

'cuz it is cheaper. of course, you could just get a new disc. for the record, the only time i needed a rebuild is because the darn crank seal starting leaking.....

here is a easy thing to do. drive a car with a ACT clutch & then a stock one. if you can't tell the difference, then you don't need one.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allenp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

3) If you can find a "unsprung" disc, meaning no torsion damper, this will reduce the possibility of something breaking on you at high RPM. Also the lighter nature of these discs makes for quicker shifts, and easier on your synchros.

4) But make sure that such a disc has "cushion" springs in it such that it is driveable!


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Aren't #3 & #4 contradictory? I don't know what you mean by a torsion damper in #3. Example?

I would agree that you want to get what is commonly refered to as a sprung hub. This means that the friction disk has the springs in it. Makes it much more forgiving.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civicrr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Aren't #3 & #4 contradictory? I don't know what you mean by a torsion damper in #3. Example?

I would agree that you want to get what is commonly refered to as a sprung hub. This means that the friction disk has the springs in it. Makes it much more forgiving.</TD></TR></TABLE>

They aren't contradictory if I explained myself better Being responsible for the development and performance of clutches doesn't make me any better at communicating their function I guess

There are two main types of springs in the typical clutch disc:

1) The "Cushion" spring is comprised of sheet metal formed into a "wave" type spring. You find the cushion spring in between the friction material faces. The reason this is known as the cushion spring is that it is the part responsible for a smooth engagement of the clutch. You can think of the cushion as the "torque valve" for the clutch - as the pressure plate squeezes the disc, this spring, via its deflection rate, controls the amount of torque passing to the transmission. Very important: This is the element that makes the clutch more "forgiving."

2) The "torsion damper" springs are the springs arranged cirumferentially inside the disc assembly. If I am correct, this is what people refer to as a "sprung hub." They are typically coil springs or rubber cylinders. They have one purpose: to isolate the transmission from the torsional vibrations that result from the combustion process. These springs have no effect on the "forgiving" nature of the clutch. They will, however, create opportunities for the disc to fail under prolonged high-speed operation. This is why I suggest getting a disc without them. The torsion damper's purpose is primarily Noise/Vibration/Harshness (NVH) related, NOT durability.

Hope this clarifies the function of the clutch disc...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FormulaIntegra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know right now I only need a stock clutch with the approx. 125-130whp, but I don't want to purchase and install a stock clutch now, then a year from now find out I need a new higher capability one with the engine upgrades. </TD></TR></TABLE>

If you're building to ITA/H4 specs, you're not likely to see more than 135whp or so out of that motor anyway. I've never had a problem using a stock clutch in my CRX. They seem to hold up just fine. I actually put a used stock one back in when I did my motor build because there was nothing wrong with it. IMO, just stick with stock unless you really feel like trying something new. Another clutch I've heard some people say they liked is the Exedy organic, but I haven't used it.

- Scott

 

Thanks for the help, info, and opinions, guys.

I found a really killer deal on ebay for a ACT HD pressure plate/street clutch package, so I'm going with that. I appreciate the help and insight.