hey everyone, i was planning on building and ls-vtec motor for a new car im getting, so far ive known 3 people that have built ls-vtec motor and they were all great for a few days then they all blew (one spun a bearing, one threw a whole rod though the block, and the other ones pistons shattered and threw it through the oil pan)

and ive heard of ls-vtec setups only lasting around 7000 miles before problems

all the motors were using stock rods bolts and i was only going to build one with ARP rod bolts and acl bearing and put some p30 pistons on the rods

will this fix the problem and make it a reliabe daily driver? as long as i dont smash on it very hard even though vtec is almost irresistable to anyone

let me know what else will help

 

i have a few friends with Ls/vtec setups. they all changed the rods, rod bolts and pistons. havent seen any problems yet. I guess its all in the builder.


Modified by jameskersten1 at 12:04 AM 9/7/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA9ls-vtec91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey everyone, i was planning on building and ls-vtec motor for a new car im getting, so far ive known 3 people that have built ls-vtec motor and they were all great for a few days then they all blew (one spun a bearing, one threw a whole rod though the block, and the other ones pistons shattered and threw it through the oil pan)

and ive heard of ls-vtec setups only lasting around 7000 miles before problems

all the motors were using stock rods bolts and i was only going to build one with ARP rod bolts and acl bearing and put some p30 pistons on the rods

will this fix the problem and make it a reliabe daily driver? as long as i dont smash on it very hard even though vtec is almost irresistable to anyone

let me know what else will help </TD></TR></TABLE>


That's the problem right there.
You don't need to get aftermarket rods for an LS/Vtec setup considering your not making enough power to damage the rods.
Bearings if anything use the stock ones if they are in good condition and have new rod bolts put in to prevent the rod bolt from stretching under pressure.

These can be very successful builds but it all depends what you build the motor for what what RPM/HP/TQ potential you have in mind.

 

i plan to run it at 8500 max rpms when i race, i plan to use the ARP rods bolts like ive heard, and possibly ACL bearings cuz i heard you should never re-use bearings when you build a motor

 

*BUMP* for a bored kid doin homework

 

*Bump* before bed

 

I've had my lsv for about 1 year now, daily driven with no problems. I even did a road trip from Las Vegas to So.Cal and back. Motor was built/tuned by Dennis at LDL speedshop.

I would recommend the following:
ARP rod bolts
ARP/AEBS head bolts
Balance the complete rotating assembly
Balance/shot peen the rods
New OEM bearings, oil pump , water pump, tbelt, tensioner and gaskets
OEM pcv system

I always check my oil, and i dont drive like a maniac. I've hit 9k a couple of times, but i dont redline light to light. Another important thing is the tuning, detonation can be bad for your motor life, so make sure your motor is properly tuned. If you build the motor with the correct components and have a compitent(SP?) person built it you should be fine.

 

arp rod bolts are the key ingredient in making a budget lsvtec last...i had one with pr3's,gsr oil and water pumps,aclbearings,arp bolts,itr head,rocket springs,and blox type b cams....drove it like a maniac(9500k shifts sometimes) for prolly 10k miles even with a 65 shot of nitrous before i sold it to my friend who still has it in his crx...no problems at all

 

sounds good, i plan to shoot nitrous too hah, and take out some cocky kids

*Bump* for just gettin off work

 

Bump for the night

 

i have 9k on my ls vtec had it in since feb of this year no problems ever since i dropped it in. been running strong ever since. just make sure you go to a good shop. im using acl bearings shopeened rods arp rod bolts and jdm pr3 pistons.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jameskersten1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have a few friends with Ls/vtec setups. they all changed the rods, rod bolts and pistons. havent seen any problems yet. I guess its all in the builder.


Modified by jameskersten1 at 12:04 AM 9/7/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly what I did...and of course freshened EVERYTHING up. It's reliable and I love it for daily driving...the only thing I'd trade it for is a ITR motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have 9k on my ls vtec had it in since feb of this year no problems ever since i dropped it in. been running strong ever since. just make sure you go to a good shop. im using acl bearings shopeened rods arp rod bolts and jdm pr3 pistons. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i plan to build it myself and i know a good shop to put the pistons on, and the rod bolts, so it sounds like i should be set

what should my redline be at with JDM p30 pistons, JDM GSR head, itr valves and valve springs, itr cams, stock rods, ACL bearings and ARP rods bolts?

thanks for all the imput everyone

 

*bump* to the top, what should my redline, and my power be at with my setup i plan to build

 

i'll tyr to get my dyno chart posted but i reline at 8500 made 216.2hp and 139.4tq it depends each motor is different you have to tune it to find your peak power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'll tyr to get my dyno chart posted but i reline at 8500 made 216.2hp and 139.4tq it depends each motor is different you have to tune it to find your peak power</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds good, what parts is your motor built with? for like internals, and how did you tune it, im probably tuning mine though a hondata s200

 

Block:
B18a
shotpeened LS rods
oversized jdm pr3 pistons
gsr oil and water pump
acl bearings and arp rod bolts

Head:
1st gen B16 Portflow head
full P&P with REV valves
portflow springs and retainers
Blox st 2 cams with JG cam gears

Bolt-ons:
anr street header
arp head studs
blox intake manaifold
65mm t/b
aem fuel rail/regulator
walbro 255lph fuel pump
RC 310 injectors

Tranny:
B16 non lsd
act 6-puck heavy duty plate

i rom tuned my setup only on a chipped ecu through REDZONE in San Jose
Car has been running fine ever since no problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fmrprojects &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Block:
B18a
shotpeened LS rods
oversized jdm pr3 pistons
gsr oil and water pump
acl bearings and arp rod bolts

Head:
1st gen B16 Portflow head
full P&P with REV valves
portflow springs and retainers
Blox st 2 cams with JG cam gears

Bolt-ons:
anr street header
arp head studs
blox intake manaifold
65mm t/b
aem fuel rail/regulator
walbro 255lph fuel pump
RC 310 injectors

Tranny:
B16 non lsd
act 6-puck heavy duty plate

i rom tuned my setup only on a chipped ecu through REDZONE in San Jose
Car has been running fine ever since no problems</TD></TR></TABLE>

sounds sick, what kinda times are you getting or what kind cars are you beating on the street?

how much did your tuning cost you?

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1082748

You might want to check that thing out.. its an lsvtec motor.. he shifts at 9500 rpm.

I can personally vouch for that motor, and its running strong till this day in a daily driven street car.

 

if you decide to use stock cams there is no point in shifting higher than 8000 rpms. Even with my skunk2 stage 1's i made peak hp of 196 whp at 8000 rpms with power holding strong to 8400 rpms.

 

*bump* for the morning time do i need to install a knock sensor? or is there any way i can get around it


Modified by DA9ls-vtec91 at 11:16 AM 9/14/2005

 

BUMP for the night, i wanna build this right so help me out

thanks for all the input from everyone so far

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DA9ls-vtec91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*bump* for the morning time do i need to install a knock sensor? or is there any way i can get around it


Modified by DA9ls-vtec91 at 11:16 AM 9/14/2005</TD></TR></TABLE>run a p28 with some sort of tuning program(i.e. uberdata,hondata,crome,etc)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by reactiondc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">run a p28 with some sort of tuning program(i.e.
uberdata,hondata,crome,etc)</TD></TR></TABLE>

what chip should i run?

i might be able to get a hondata s200 system from a friend

how should i program it to bypass the knock sensor

*BUMP for the day*

 

the engine we did for fmrprojects was built by myself and tuned by Brandon with Crome....you can use a P28 and a base map to start the car, But I reccommend tuning it as soon as possable.....The hondata will work also, but the S200 would be more then you need and is more expensive then the S100, S100 would work well for you. If you get a deal on the S200, then you cant go worng. there are many places to tune the S100 and S200 systems...Modacar, DNR, DSR, and so on....

We tune with Crome, Kpro, DFI, and Vtec controllers......no Hondata S systems though, sorry

Good luck with your build and tune!