NO gauges, No power windows, No getting the car out of park without manualy overiding, Now before anyone answers, I have checked all fuses, ignition switch, all conections I.E ecu and ignition harnests, I can roll down my windows by running a direct wire from battery to fuse box, I still have power mirrors. So that tells me it's not the battery, or power window motor, I belive it in between the ignition switch and fuse box, I could be wrong, but I also haven't tacked on one mile for about 1000 miles now, I don't here my fuel pump kick in and in the manuel it states that a proper systems check in 90-93 hondas is all dash lights, battery, oil, SRS,etc. will come on the when the key is in the on position, before cranking, and you are supposed here the fuel pump. The only light I had coming on was the battery, and yesterday, on the freeway my car with no warning just took a ****** ****, I had it towed, me and my brother and I ran a test on the spark plugs, and I'm getting no spark, could be the distributor I don't yet, But I do know that 4th gen accords are Notorious for distributors. So bottom line I think It distributors ecu, or ignitin harnests. If some something similiar has happend or has worked with something like this I would really appreciate the help, I do have modifactions If that helps any, thers A list on my profile, appreciate the for reading this...... Thanx............

 

main relay?

 

Main relay doesn't provide power for windows or some of the other stuff.

Connections between switch & fusebox sounds like a good idea. You sorta proved that when you made the windows work with a wire to the fusebox.

How did you check the ignition switch? Try to move the key around while checking continuity thru all 3 circuits of that switch? Can you make it screw up by moving the key?

I wouldn't blame the distributor yet, since it doesn't control the windows, SRS, oil warning light, etc... More likely whatever causes those other things to lose power is also cutting the distributor's power too.

 

I got the lights and windows to work, it was a blown ECU FUSE. now the relay seems to be working according how the manual explains to test it, but I'm still getting no fuel, so i'm narrowing it down, Im leaning towards the fuel pump, but i'm still getting no spark, I tested the ignition switch with a light tester. it's a real shitty problem.....





Modified by LOGICx420x at 7:45 PM 9/7/2005

 

I would check out ignition switch. Seems like it's the only thing that controls all of that stuff besides maybe ECU.

 

I sort of have the same problem.
My problem is that the fuel pump relay burns up which in turn, shuts off the fuel pump.

 

Now I know it's not the main relay......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLKFLSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would check out ignition switch. Seems like it's the only thing that controls all of that stuff besides maybe ECU.</TD></TR></TABLE>Not ECU. The ECU doesn't control the windows or the oil pressure warning lamp, or dashboard illumination, etc...

 

Fuel pump went bad. but your ECU fuse in you drivers kick panel doesn't control the other stuff but it does control whether power gets to those accsersories or not, as soon as I changed the fuse, WAA-LA it mystriously started working again, but now i've replaced the fuel pump and the gas tank is ****** bitch to get back on, I'll finish tommorow and well see at moment of truth....

 

My car still does not ****** start I am getting really pissed.....

 

Ignition switch. Read Jim Blake again

 

Um No!! when testing the ignition switch there are 4 connections, when the key is turned in the on position 3 of those wires should light up with a test light that are hot and one that doesn't. the one that doesn't only supposed to get power when the engine is been cranked, I have tested all the wires at igniton switch and the wires that go to the fuel pump and the only one that gives me doubt is when i get to the coonection of the sending unit the light lites up real dim. I the fuel pump does kick in if you jump it off the battery, i felt ****** stupid after i bought a brand new pump just to find that the old one works.. thanx for the tip anyway but thats not it.

 

Does it ever come on anymore? When it came on and you drove it, when it shut off, did the lights on the dash come on. check engine light and all that stuff? and did you still have power to your stereo?

 

Sounds like you grounded something out and fried a few fuses and possibly some other parts as well.

 

Before my car took a **** I had that problem with the windows, the guages etc. when It finally cut off and no dash lights came on because the weren't working so I wouldn't have known if the ecu stored a code. I changed the ecu fuse, they work fine now. To be honest I think its has to do with the pgm-fi main relay or it sensors that are connected to it. I also think this may have to do with having these upgrades, I have to test if my ecu is giving that power to open the pump and giving the coil and distrubutor spark, if the ecu shows no power or ground then that may be my problem or like I said one of those relays or sensors. some information on pgm-fi system would be greatly appreciated, like i said before thanx for taking the time to read this...

 

What if it turns out that it is not electrical related, how about exhaust related.

 

I'm pretty sure it's electrical, i've been narrowing it down and it's within the pgm-fi system, it's been 2 1/2 weeks since i've had my car it really sucks....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LOGICx420x &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when testing the ignition switch there are 4 connections, when the key is turned in the on position 3 of those wires should light up with a test light that are hot and one that doesn't. the one that doesn't only supposed to get power when the engine is been cranked, I have tested all the wires at igniton switch and the wires that go to the fuel pump...</TD></TR></TABLE>Those circuits thru the ignition switch; do they continue to have good continuity when you wiggle the key? Maybe the lock cylinder holds the electrical switch slightly out-of-position?

Then check the connections to those terminals of the ignition switch. Maybe the switch is OK but there's a bad wire from there to {wherever}?

 

anytime i have ever had no spark or no fuel it has usually ended up being a crank/cam possition sensor (aka your dizzy might be dun) just my .02 cents good luck

 

Ok so for about 3 weeks my car was out of commission, but finally it's running again it turned out to be a short that had a domino effect, which in turn caused my distributor, alternator, crank sensor and ecu fuse to take a ****. but now it running like a champ, thanx for everyones advice...

 

good work man... i hate that electrical **** haha...