As you can see, i have an 89 CRX SI, the car itself only has 100k miles on it, but it has not done well on the salty roads of michigan all its life, and for 150$ what do i have to lose, its fun as hell to work on something like this.

anyhow, here is the bad stuff



a closeup of the rust...








no more rust! ..but.. crap....





here we go, this is looking better.... (kinda)




and finally....






all this is about 15 hours of work...


finally, i want to end up looking something like this...




what do you think, where am i going wrong... let me know before i screw it up too bad

 

youd benefit from grinding the paint back a little farther around your weld seams and wiping it down with acetone. big project but looks like youre headed in the right direction.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike_belben@yahoo.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">youd benefit from grinding the paint back a little farther around your weld seams and wiping it down with acetone. big project but looks like youre headed in the right direction.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Word.

Also some people knock the EK front end but I think it looks good .

Check out my sig for some info on rust repairs. Looks like you have a good idea of what you are doing though.

 

Does anyone have any tips on forming the sheetmetal, unfortunately i only have some hammers and clamps and my bare hands, if anyone knows where i can buy replacement pannelining that is already formed i would greatly appreciate it.

 

project is starting off in the right direction. Keep everyone posted with the timeline of the work.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by devinfox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does anyone have any tips on forming the sheetmetal, unfortunately i only have some hammers and clamps and my bare hands, if anyone knows where i can buy replacement pannelining that is already formed i would greatly appreciate it.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have heard both that there are replacement parts and that there isn't. can't confirm sorry.

For forming. I used my hands, hammer and clamp also. lol. My buddy told me take a piece of sheetmetal put it over the where you are going to be putting it and then take oxy-acetolene setup and form it with heat. I have yet to do this so I am unsure how good it is. Also try to weld from the inside of the car as much as possible. I think looks better.

-Shane

 

Right now i have put about 4 or 5 hours into stripping the car down to what you can see, and i have put in about 15 hours of work into fixing the rust, most of that was grinding and cleaning rust off, maybe 20% of that was planning where and how i am going to cut and practicing welding on that thin of metal (ive never welded metal that thin before and it is a HUGE PAIN)

 

looks good man. Angle grinder is ur best friend.

I use my $10 angle grinder from harborfreight.com for EVERYTHING. Just got a bunch of metal cutting and grinding disks. Doesn't really matter where u weld from... tack it from where ever you can and then just grind down the tops of the welds.

Good luck and keep us all posted. I wish I took pics of myself/the car @ this stage in my build. My car has come a long way too.

 

wow good start and you have a long way, yeah looks like everything is ok. Take your time, and be patient. Rust Sucks!

 

yeah good luck bud looks good so far!

 

the ek front looks good only on that red one in particular. Ive seen that car in person and now it looks all toreup. dont know what theyre doin to it. i only like the front on it. but yea. your car is headin in the right direction. keep us posted

 

awsome work man...

did your car not come with a front end and thats why you want to go with the EK front? I would stick with the USDM or JDM CRX front end. I think once you get past the "rice" (we all used to or still have in us) you will appreciate the stock look much much better.

 

man . that sucks pretty bad, your gonna need to dedicate alot of time and money into the car but , **** its a crx so its 100% worth it...


good luck

 

smokinsax said it best, and its true admitting to rice is the first step we were all there at one point, once you find out what a clean car is and what a ricey car is its like a whole new appreciation for oem.

 

oh yeah if you do decide to do a body kit i suggest you dont mold the kit because it will be a pain if you get in an accident or decide to swap bumpers later on down the road

 

the reason you use the oxy-acetolene to heat up the sheet metal is because it expands the molacules in the metal and makes it a lot Ezer to bend, And Take the advise of other Get rid of all the surronding paint to the rust and porly about a foot on each side of the rust to make sure there isnt any more. (Junkyard for body panels.) also it's a little late now but you Can fab up a jig of some sort so you dont have to guess every time take a peice of MDF and Screw in blocks of wood in the places you need the bends. but i think the junkyard would be your best bet.

 

my daily driver is a very clean SSBP integra GSR, thats my non rice, this is just a fun car

 

forget what everone else thinks about the front end. Do what makes you happy. Also, I would search for a wrecked crx and chop that up for the parts u need to weld on. whoever is welding needs to set the amperage lower.

 

Damn that's a big *** project good luck.

 

some horses were just meant to be put to sleep.

 

It is already set as low as it can go, i was looking into possibly brazing(sp) the metal into place.

good idea, bad idea?

 

That car is GONE.

And I can still see rust behind the "patch panels"

To repair rust you MUST replace the ENTIRE panel from spot weld to spot weld other wise it will be back and fast......o whatever **** it nobody listens to the real body guys on here you all no what your doing I guess

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by devinfox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is already set as low as it can go, i was looking into possibly brazing(sp) the metal into place.

good idea, bad idea?</TD></TR></TABLE>

BAD, its not a real weld its a "bond" kinda like glue.

 

I forgot what the name of the product was but someone was using this metal glue which was supposidly stonger than welding. Might want to look into that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by UltimX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I forgot what the name of the product was but someone was using this metal glue which was supposidly stonger than welding. Might want to look into that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That would be the lord products.

In tests on a rack in can outhold a spotweld but thats due to more contact area with the glue and its not ment to replace welds its ment to assist.

This is the reason almost every product in the shop says not for sale to the public, you all use them wrongly and wonder were the problems come from.

Anyway lunch is over, back to the shop.