Hey guys, i'm in the process of installing a rear disc conversion on my 1996 coupe. i got one side done and thought might as well torque everything down to spec. when i got to the subframe bolt it said 40 ft/lbs and i went a bit lower, i think 36 ft/lbs. anyways i heard a click and thought oh **** i broke the bolt. turns out the bolt was fine but now the bolts won't thread properly! this leads me to believe that the nut on the back side got fucked up somehow. so i guess i will have to use a 14mm nut to thread it.. the problem is i don't know the best/easiest way to get the old one out. suggestions?

cliffs notes: damaged subframe mounting nut, need to remove it. how?

 

Can you clean it out with a tap?

 

Sometimes there is a nut on subframe mounting points and sometimes there isn't. First, can you visually see a nut? If you can and you really want to fix it you could; Remove the entire subframe, knock off the old nut with an air hammer with a chisel tip, reweld in a matching nut. I know when I replaced my front subframe on my EJ there were a bunch of points where the steel itself was tapped. I tend to be more careful when working in these areas now. Make sure to use some sort of assembly lube on the threads of the bolts when reassembling since without it 70% of the force is going just to overcome the friction on the threads. Good luck though..

 

Yeah I don't have a tap and die set.. there is definitely a nut but i won't be able to take the subframe apart.. do you guys think a large breaker bar could rip it off? just pull until it gives? i have a 14mm nut i can use in the back..

 

heat it up with those walmart propane torches and then cut it with dremel or saw

 

I had a similar problem with the front subframe. the bolt welded inside the subframe broke loose and theres nothing to thread into anymore. had to replace the subframe.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by monicle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a similar problem with the front subframe. the bolt welded inside the subframe broke loose and theres nothing to thread into anymore. had to replace the subframe.</TD></TR></TABLE>

shitty deal.. well for teh rear subframe the nut is on the outside. i was told by a buddy that has a lot of experience working on hondas that these nuts are just spot welded and will easily succumb to the force applied by a breaker bar.. then it will just be as easy as putting another 14mm nut at the back to thread into.. if you think about it all those rear suspension bolts freeze and get hard to take out. if these nuts were impossible to take off then that would create too much work for dealerships when working on peoples cars.. i'll let you guys know how it turns out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_driver &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heat it up with those walmart propane torches and then cut it with dremel or saw</TD></TR></TABLE>


the shitty thing about the pencil torch is it doesnt have a "rosebud" which would be the fitting to heat the metal with... a pencil torch can cause a lot more harm than good. if you're going to torch it youll need an oxy/acetaline torch with a rosebud so you can heat it properly and then pop it with a breaker bar. if its just spot welded you should just be able to pop it without heat.

best of luck to you.

 

I think I had the same problem when i did my five lug. All I did was cut a little hole in the Subframe, took the old peice out, put a 14mm lock nut on the other end, stuck the bolt through and tightend it. Check it just the other day and it was still as tight as a virgin...

Worked for me, Just my opinion.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedEK9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think I had the same problem when i did my five lug. All I did was cut a little hole in the Subframe, took the old peice out, put a 14mm lock nut on the other end, stuck the bolt through and tightend it. Check it just the other day and it was still as tight as a virgin...

Worked for me, Just my opinion. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Hey guys, heres an update! For those of you that have this happen to you don't panic! I did what i planned and got a 18" breaker bar on that nut. It was tough to get it on though since the splash guard for the gas tank is in the way. It took some effort but my buddy and i got the 19mm socket on there. after that it took almost no torque to annihilate that nut! Those nuts are only spot welded in 3 places so in hondas infinite wisdom they didn't decide to **** over people like me
I grabbed a hex nut from the local store that worked and its on there like a charm! Its basically no different than if your welded nut on the back of your rear struts has to come off