****EDIT 2***** Well i had a check engine light to and i went to autozone today and had it read, well the car threw 7 codes 2 were the 02 sensors and then it said cyl 1,2,3,4 misfires then the last code was mulitple misfires, now i knew about the 02 sensor but these misfires were not on the computer before... wtf could be causing this now?? im getting really angry because i have to go to the track in a week with a big group that we organized and now it looks like my car wont ****** run!


*-*EDIT*-* Ok so i did the valve adjustment and checked the timing, everthing seems to be lined up and adjusting the timing at the distributer is all the way advanced and the cam gear is advanced 2 degrees..... the problem still is there is a little rattle in the valve train and the car is just a tad sluggish but once u fit 4000rpms it takes off like no other......what still could be causing this, we rechecked the timing and everything was TDC so we are baffled... i hate to take it to a shop but i might... please help!!*****

so i put a new timing belt, water pump, cam gear, and camshaft in my car today... I have a d16y8 and was installing a stage 1 comp cams camshaft and a aem camgear...so we look in the manual i have and it says "adjust the valves to 10 and 12" so we did but later on reading it said something about 8 and 10... I dont know what one it is supposed to be but we are getting a lot of noise rite now like a clatter noise sort of...so then we took it for a quick spin around the block and the other problem would come up and that is if you give it full throttle it would take off as if u were just tapping the gas..? So i guess my questions are what is the RITE valve specs and is that what could be causing the noise, and also what would make the car feel like it has no power at all under full throttle?


Modified by Slow_CvC99 at 11:26 PM 9/4/2005


Modified by Slow_CvC99 at 4:28 PM 9/5/2005

 

its .008 and .010 so yea i would re adjust them then see if thats the problem.

 

what about the sluggish throttle response?

 

what i was sudjesting is start with what you allready know is wrong then go from there. when you floor it does it bog then pick up or just keep bogging? after you adjust your valves set the ignition timing then the cam timing since you now have and adjustable cam gear.

 

its not really like a bog, it just hesitates..... we didnt have a timing light either so we just tried to line everything up to TDC

 

yea but say when you smash it, it hesitates the goes? if so your ignition timing is off. or does it hesitate and never pick up?

 

well it goes but it hesitates like it just doesnt want to, i guess i will check that tom.. thanks for your help

 

Wow you adjusted your valves to .010 and .012? **** im suprised your cars even starting. Adjust the intake to .008 and the exhaust to .010 Itll be night and day difference.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow you adjusted your valves to .010 and .012? **** im suprised your cars even starting. Adjust the intake to .008 and the exhaust to .010 Itll be night and day difference. </TD></TR></TABLE>

ditto, when i put my zex cam in i put them to stock specs and not the ones given to me by compcams (didnt see them ) and it was so much better

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Luserkid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow you adjusted your valves to .010 and .012? **** im suprised your cars even starting. Adjust the intake to .008 and the exhaust to .010 Itll be night and day difference. </TD></TR></TABLE> Valve clearance is very important. Thats the right specs for ya. Some people also don't consider the fact that valve clearances should be inspected/adjusted with the adj cam gear at 0. But yeah we're dealing with interference engines here. No good...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slow_CvC99 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about the sluggish throttle response?</TD></TR></TABLE>If your not sure you adjusted them to the right spec this could be your valves getting pounded since you mentioned the pinging noise.. Hmm I would say take the **** apart again.

Here is a link to the UK honda site where they have the service manual for their civic. The specs and process shown here are for any D-series. It just has unfamiliar engine codes if your from the states..

http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/C...4.pdf

Good luck, hopefully you don't have any bent valves, those can get expensive..

 

To ^^^ its not pinging, its more of the valves clattering, the timing isnt off enough to bend the valves, that i am certain.... but to take everything apart again i think would be worthless because everything was lined up to TDC the entire way though the process.... the only thing that was not done rite to my knowledge was the valve adjustment because the chilton (sp) manual is the most ****** retarded manual ive ever seen...tells you one thing then changes its mind in another section. So I guess what to do a valve adjustment again, and then fire that puppy up and hope it sounds like a smooth runner. Also the camgear was not advanced or retarded simply because at this point without a dyno or a track to tell me times or numbers its pointless so it is set at 0 rite now.

 

Bump i fixed some stuff tonight check my first post for the edit please help me !

 

thats the cam for you... you are getting more air down low in the power band and you are losing some torque would be my guess, the valvetrain is gunna be loud, people ask me if my car is a diesel, stage 2 zex cam (59300), so the sound seems normal as well as the powerband... but i would get a timing light on there just to be safe and check it out

 

where is this blue plug thing that you must unplug and jump it with a paper clip.... er something the manual told us to do it and then check the timing?

 

ok new update and i still need help check EDIT 2

 

help?

 

up

 

did you put the plugs in the right place on the dizzy? That would cause some to fire and some not too aka misfire lol, i would check the O2 sensor and have it replaced, cover all bases, it could be the dumbest thing ever, just double/triple check everything.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you put the plugs in the right place on the dizzy? That would cause some to fire and some not too aka misfire lol, i would check the O2 sensor and have it replaced, cover all bases, it could be the dumbest thing ever, just double/triple check everything.</TD></TR></TABLE>

all in the right order we actually never unplugged them we just left them on it and then replugged them into the block...what about cap and rotor how do i know if that is making it misfire?? otherwise what could be making it do that?? I have to call the guy at the shop and let him know if i want to drop it off in the morning, he charges 50$ an hour for laybor

 

bring it up

 

If your ignition timing is off this could cause hesitation and misfiring. We were bored one day so we decided to see how bad ignition timing could negatively effect the performance of the engine. We were able to turn the dizzy enough to make the engine fire so prematurely the combustion was incomplete and the car barely drove. Thankefully we were going around about a 1/2 mile circle road that came right back to m house. I think with a big enough hill we wouldn't have been able to proceed.

I recall you mentioning you don't have a timing light. I suggest picking one up (like $20-$30) or most auto parts stores, such as AutoZone, will rent you the light. Check that and go from there. The service check connector should be jumped (its located just under the dash on the passanger side) and all acc. should be off when inspecting/adjusting ig. timing. Once done reset the ECU and see if the misfire CELs went away.