It all started about 2 weeks ago when i did a simple thing as changing the brake pads on my 1988 CRX which i bought from Bap Geon, 2 or 3 days later i noticed my brakes in the front passenger side are smoking and my rotors got so hot they looked like a cherry on a cigarette. So i figure its my calipers, bought rebuilt calipers and i'm having the same problem 2 days later, brakes smoking and rotor looking like a cherry. Whats the problem? Would gladly appreciate the help!

Keep in mind parts that have i replaced since:
-Brand New OEM M/C which i replaced before this happened
-New brake hoses
-Just put in a 4040 proportioning valve today (9/2/2005)
-New aftermarket front brake calipers(which i exchanged for a second caliper because i thought the first one was no good but not the case.)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_rex_will &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It all started about 2 weeks ago when i did a simple thing as changing the brake pads on my 1988 CRX which i bought from Bap Geon, 2 or 3 days later i noticed my brakes in the front passenger side are smoking and my rotors got so hot they looked like a cherry on a cigarette. So i figure its my calipers, bought rebuilt calipers and i'm having the same problem 2 days later, brakes smoking and rotor looking like a cherry. Whats the problem? Would gladly appreciate the help!

Keep in mind parts that have i replaced since:
-Brand New OEM M/C which i replaced before this happened
-New brake hoses
-Just put in a 4040 proportioning valve today (9/2/2005)
-New aftermarket front brake calipers(which i exchanged for a second caliper because i thought the first one was no good but not the case.)
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you Bench bleed the MC???

 

Sure did. Once i start driving in the day, if i start using my brakes thats when they start to lock, then i have to pull over and shut my car off for a while, once the car is off for about an hour, thats when the pressure goes down and i can start driving again, but i have to use my Emergency Brakes so my front right doesnt lock up again. Anybody have any other suggestions, i'm trying to go to NASCAR this weekend if i can fix the problem. Up

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_rex_will &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sure did. Once i start driving in the day, if i start using my brakes thats when they start to lock, then i have to pull over and shut my car off for a while, once the car is off for about an hour, thats when the pressure goes down and i can start driving again, but i have to use my Emergency Brakes so my front right doesnt lock up again. Anybody have any other suggestions, i'm trying to go to NASCAR this weekend if i can fix the problem. Up </TD></TR></TABLE>

I find that really, weird. care to tell me the details of how you bench bleed your MC?

 

My uncle was the one that bled the M/C and he's a mechanic for Honda so it was done the right way. I did a search but i get too many different things that can be wrong

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_rex_will &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My uncle was the one that bled the M/C and he's a mechanic for Honda so it was done the right way. I did a search but i get too many different things that can be wrong </TD></TR></TABLE>

k, who did the bleeding of the calipers? and how did you bleed those? theres a certan Sequence and way for it to be done right.

 

He was the one that bled the calipers also, pumping the brakes about 5 times then hold the brake pedal while he opend the valve the bleed them, maybe it was done wrong but i dont know because its only on one side which is the front passenger side so i know that was also done the right way. I'm not sure, im just frustrated because i have almost replaced everything except the rotors and i'm going to have to replace the pas again soon because they got eaten up from whats going on. Supposedly its the brake pads but who knows!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_rex_will &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He was the one that bled the calipers also, pumping the brakes about 5 times then hold the brake pedal while he opend the valve the bleed them, maybe it was done wrong but i dont know because its only on one side which is the front passenger side so i know that was also done the right way. I'm not sure, im just frustrated because i have almost replaced everything except the rotors and i'm going to have to replace the pas again soon because they got eaten up from whats going on. Supposedly its the brake pads but who knows!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, im at a lost.

 

no way it can be a brake pad problem.

How's the pushrod clearance between the m/c and brake booster?

 

Not sure! Wheres the pushrod located? I took it to a brake shop yesterday just to get another opinion and they said maybe the piston is coming out sidways and that the pads are rubbing up against the rotors, they said try another caliper which would possibly be my 3rd caliper if i exchange it again, then the brake shop said change the pads and the rotors and that should fix the problem. The other night my rotors got so hot i saw a little flame shooting from what looks where the brake hose bolts on to the caliper, it was kinda scary, i thought my car was going to catch on fire

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_rex_will &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Wait, now that I think of it. It might be your brake booster\rod clearence.

Its pulling back far enough for the other breaks but not enough for that stuck caliper. Until you shut the car off, alowing the vacume to leave?

Have someone in your car press the break peddle. and look at the fluid. it should go down, then back up. if not My best bet would be the rod isnt pulling back far enough to alow the MC to relase fully.

 

I will keep that in mind and give it a try!

 

No luck still, could it be that i'm just getting a bad rebuilt caliper? If thats the case it would be my 3rd caliper i've tried so far and again its only on one side which is the front passenger side.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_rex_will &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No luck still, could it be that i'm just getting a bad rebuilt caliper? If thats the case it would be my 3rd caliper i've tried so far and again its only on one side which is the front passenger side.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its possible. ive never gotten a bad rebuilt item from anywhere. but I guess its just a mater of time. heh.

 

Try replacing your left side caliper because if the right wheel is locking up all the time that means it is working to hard. Your left caliper isnt working so the right side locks up try that and good luck

 

Try the leftside huh? Will do on Tuesday, It's weird that you mentioned the leftside though because while all this is happening it does seem like the leftside is not doing anything as far as braking power and when i washed my car yesterday i noticed no brake dust coming out on the leftside but of course a lot of brake dust on the rightside where the problem is from eating up my pads.

 

Yeah that same thing happend to me with my old toyota celica. Do the work and tell me the results

 

whenever you take your brakes apart, when you are puttin everything back taogether you need to put Anti-Seize on the sliders for the caliper. it will act like your caliper is stuck and leave the pads against the rotor causing the excessive brake dust

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RACINTWEEK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whenever you take your brakes apart, when you are puttin everything back taogether you need to put Anti-Seize on the sliders for the caliper. it will act like your caliper is stuck and leave the pads against the rotor causing the excessive brake dust </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yup, i did that also, i made sure i put anti-seize on the sliders for sure because i thought that may have been the original problem, bump because i'm still stumped and frustrated. Keep in mind that all this started by doing a simple thing as changing the brake pads (before i spent a couple hundred on replacing parts) and it's been a nightmare

 

Bump for more info Come to find out today that the problem is getting worse, now my brakes lock up on it's own while i'm driving and using the E brake only (not applying pressure to the brake pedal) and if i shut my car off for about an hour after my brake locks then the pressure goes back down and i'm able to drive my car again. What controls the pressure of the brakes in the front?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_rex_will &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump for more info Come to find out today that the problem is getting worse, now my brakes lock up on it's own while i'm driving and using the E brake only (not applying pressure to the brake pedal) and if i shut my car off for about an hour after my brake locks then the pressure goes back down and i'm able to drive my car again. What controls the pressure of the brakes in the front? </TD></TR></TABLE>


Well, what controlls the pressure of the front, is the Proportinal valve. and its not a mechinical peice, its just passage ways. so that couldnt be the problem. Proptinal valves dont go bad, ha. but what can cause a pressure problem, is the master cylinder.

you replaced the Calipers, Prop, MC. Bench bleed the MC, you bleed all the breaks.

How does your break peddle feal? hard? soft?

 

It varys, if my brakes are not locked it's kinda soft, but once my brakes are locked then the pedal is hard where i can barely press the brake pedal and i just replaced the prop valve (40/40 from a DA), yeah your right from what i hear they dont go bad often either.

 

how old is your brake booster?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LaFawnduh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how old is your brake booster?</TD></TR></TABLE>

More than likely as old as the car, out of all this i'm starting to think it's the brake booster. Can a bad brake booster cause the brakes to lock up on the front right side only? Bump for more advice!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slow_rex_will &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

More than likely as old as the car, out of all this i'm starting to think it's the brake booster. Can a bad brake booster cause the brakes to lock up on the front right side only? Bump for more advice!</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, but your prop valve can cause this.