i get a code 4. ok great crank angle sensor aka Dist. when that comes on i cant rev passed 3250rpm and cuts fuel as i can see on my gauges.

i can turn off car and the CEL goes away. Then i can drive normal still then i go on the highway and drive normal 55mph-65mph bam car starts bucking and misfiring. get off gas and drive between 50-60 then i floor it again but to 70mph and it will buck more then go into limp mode and send me back under 3k rpm range.

I can turn my car on in the morning and let it warm for minute or 2 and then take off and hit vtec and rev the car and no bucking and no CEL and no limp mode.

also why does it throw code 4, go into limp mode and buck when vtec kicks in at partial throttle. and i notice it after driving for awhile on very hot days or at 1pm-2pm when the sun is shinning bright.

what i did was inspect ignition components and notice in the dist. cap look liked washers cut into 4 pieces each, metal residue shavings, also the coil,cap, rotor was corroded in the terminal i replaced with oem tec cap/ngk plugs/ngk wires thought it was gone and bam came back the next day but i didnt change the corroded coil so i then. bought a MSD cap and MSD blaster coil kit. to elminated the internal coil and see inside the dist cap since the msd cap is see thru. got spark and revved up and then i rev to 7 krpm in nuetral and no bucking and i see spark.

thats the thing i can turn the car on let it sit for 5-10minutes running and rev the car any rpm parked and no CEL and works fine but after driving a few minutes it will buck/cut fuel and go into limp mode.

<u>TIMING</u>
now i think the timing is off.. because i remember when on the dyno advancing the timing with the jumper wire under the carpet inside the car. but i didnt jump it again before i went retarding back not to stock but a little pulled back than stock.

also my car was off, not running at operating temp when i loosened the dizzy and retarded it tightened back up and started the car up, i wasnt thinking pretty much pissed at that time. i'm not good at timing it isnt my thing.

Help, TIA.
Nelson

 

same thing happened to me. It seems to have gone away right now with the cooler weather. It happens to be the Crank sensor within the Distributor (from what I've been researching) But if that was the case, it would be doing it all the time. So I will probably have to run the diagnostics on it found in the Helm's manual. I am assuming it is either bad wiring on my part, or the grounds going to the ECU.

Or it could be the Main Relay? Even though it probably has nothing to do with the distributor. Those things go out when it gets really hot like the past few days.

I also should probably replace the ignition coil inside the distributor.

Good luck in finding your answer!

-Jon

 

yeh i read up the dizzy wires can interfere signals if next to another. well i soldered the coil connections but i put electrical tape on them seperately and them i tape them together so they dont move around inside the cap to keep them from having "contact" with one another and the rotor.

but im going to go out and try to relocate the soldered and electrical taped points outside the cap. because i think the spark from dizzy is hitting the coil/injector wires. also i took off that plastic cover under around the rotor when i took off the stock coil on top.

i'll know in 45minutes if it changed anything.. if nto its my timing.. if not time for a new distributor.

also i think the autometer 5 inch is sending power through the rpm signal/ecu/-coil and messing up my **** since i bought it used on H-T. because i changed my timing/cap/rotor when i added the tachometer. lol oh god. looks like it was opened and tampered and to get the RIGHT signal i have to splice together the orange loop back when infact doing that it should only be for 6 cyl on the tach you have to cut both loops when they were both cut for 4cyl and i got a **** signal (read 1000rpm more at every stock tach reading.. idle at 900 on stock tach it was as 2k or something) now the illumination on autometer tach is out.

 

man i copped out and order from Distributor King lol

 

DID IT SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM?

 

yep. 15 minute job had me hitting vtec again.

 

For future reference, the thing to do to "repair" that distributor, is this:
Open it up and scrape any carbon that's on the wires leading to the igniter unit, those slip on terminals corrode like anything else and can cause the "bad igniter unit scenario" which is exactly what you described (the 3000 intermittent redline).
If that doesn't help then replacing the Igniter Unit is your best bet.
This has solved the problem for me in the past. It's very common.