ok.. here is what i did
my alarm has a remote starter.......
these are the wires that the alarm has
it actually has two parts
alarm:
wire to speaker (alarm)
two wires for turn lights
wire for negative
wire for positive
wire for trunk
then there are 6 wires for doors
remote starter:
wire to tachnometer
wire to parking brake
wire to something like "kill switch"?
wire to three relays which has 5 wires which are going into: 12V, ACC, 2 wires to ON, STR

Questions:
1. on the instructions it asks me to tap those 2 wires ON onto one ON wire.. but in my civic 93 EX, it has two ignition wires, should i tap both separetaly? or just tap both of them in one ignition wire?
2. for that wire to "kill switch", i am not sure what wire this is, coz it's in chinese, but i dunno how to translate it in english... but it's something like "electrical cut" then connects to the ignition coil... can somebody help me out with this?
3. here is what i did, i did hook up those ACC, ON, STR, 12V, parking brake, it didn't work... which sucks... i think the problem was that i didn't hook up the technometer wire.... is this right?
4. My alarm did work, but!!! because the alarm has the function of automatically alarm after 25 seconds, but even my car has started, it still keeps running, is that the problem of that "electrical kill" wire??
5. I have no idea why my turbo timer doens't work now... it's the same wiring like before, but it doesn't work... how come?? somebody help please !!!

i know i sound like i dunno nothing, but i do, i just dunno how to express it myself !!

thanks alot guys !!

 

First off I need to say: Well have have been reading your posts and from the sound of it, like other people have stated it sounds like you could really use some professional help installing this alarm. I suggest and I am sure that many other people would agree with me.

Secondly:
If you have two ignition wires, like most civics you need to make sure that they both get powered. If you only power one then either the car won't start or only your AC and heat will work. In order for the remote start to be worth your while you need to use both of them... To do this you are going to need another relay. It might not have been included with your kit... you might need to buy another one. Basicly you are going to find the low amperage trip (there should be one for the other ignition relay) and use that to trip your new relay.

My question is now.... is the electrical cut or kill switch like the starter kill? Or is it the kill or the way to turn off the remote start? If it is a starter kill then that is another relay. It is a special relay. Which your kit should have anyway... But back to remote start... If it is a remote start kill or cancel then it will just be a switch. Is it a positive or negitive trip? Most if not ALL remote starters have a connection to the break pedal so that way when the car is remote started and the person gets in the car they put the key in (turn it to ON, NOT start) and tap the break.... This will turn off the REMOTE START but now the car will be in normal operation. It is also a security feature, so if someone breaks into the car and taps the break the car will shut off. So I am not sure what this kill wire is. Your kit might not have a break pedal wire so you might have to use a switch or button. (terrible)

You MUST connect the tach wire. The remote start will not work with out it. The remote start has to know if the car is on. The only way it really know the motor is running is through the tach. Basicly if it wasn't connected then it would just keep craking the car over until it just gave up. Plus in directions it will say how to program the tach signal. The remote start needs to know what the normal idle RPMs are.

You messed up the wiring of you turbo timer. Or your remote start or alarm is conflicting with it. It is hard to say.

Sorry I couldn't help you any more. I hope this gives you some ideas..

GOOD LUCK,
Matt W.

P.S. read my first statement from above