Aftermarket Flywheel with Stock Clutch and Pressure Plate
Hi all,
As stated in one of my previous thread, I am planning to install an aftermarket flywheel and JDM final drive in my ITR (stock motor). Is it a bad idea to keep the stock clutch and pressure plate in the tranny? Are they going to hold? Currently I am not planning to get aftermarket clutch and pressure plate in the near future (that is, if the stock parts are going to hold).
Thanks in advance!
As stated in one of my previous thread, I am planning to install an aftermarket flywheel and JDM final drive in my ITR (stock motor). Is it a bad idea to keep the stock clutch and pressure plate in the tranny? Are they going to hold? Currently I am not planning to get aftermarket clutch and pressure plate in the near future (that is, if the stock parts are going to hold).
Thanks in advance!
It wouldn't have any problems, but depending on how worn the clutch is, you may want to replace it anyway, just so you don't have to drop the tranny again.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sscguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It wouldn't have any problems, but depending on how worn the clutch is, you may want to replace it anyway, just so you don't have to drop the tranny again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said, and if you get a shittty flywheel you may have rattle and startup problems(imo worthless mod, cause i have nothing to show for it in terms of performance like faster times, itr flywhel is light enough)
what he said, and if you get a shittty flywheel you may have rattle and startup problems(imo worthless mod, cause i have nothing to show for it in terms of performance like faster times, itr flywhel is light enough)
stock clutch with spoon flywheel, and loving it , haven't failed yet but I would change the clutch if the condition wasn't that good, so you don't end up paying the labour again in a few months.
I changed the FW myself so I 'd do it again for clutch so no worries .
I changed the FW myself so I 'd do it again for clutch so no worries .
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by white rocket »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">JDM FD and Fidanza Aluminum FW + stock clutch and PP = lots o' fun and no problems so far.
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SWEET! We are going to have the same setup (I got Fidanza FW and JDM FD as well)!
My clutch have 60k KM on it, mostly hwy driving...
</TD></TR></TABLE>SWEET! We are going to have the same setup (I got Fidanza FW and JDM FD as well)!
My clutch have 60k KM on it, mostly hwy driving...
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what he said, and if you get a shittty flywheel you may have rattle and startup problems(imo worthless mod, cause i have nothing to show for it in terms of performance like faster times, itr flywhel is light enough)</TD></TR></TABLE>
With a shitty alu flywheel, a rattle will be the least of you problems. Here's what happend to my Action alu flywheel:


Flywheel rim got loose, which again caused the flywheel to become unbalanced, whic again caused my tranny input shaft bearing to go bad, which again forced me to buy a new tranny. That became a REAL expensive flywheel
My advice : Buy a one pice chromoly flywheel. Much much safer.... Toda or nothing I say.
what he said, and if you get a shittty flywheel you may have rattle and startup problems(imo worthless mod, cause i have nothing to show for it in terms of performance like faster times, itr flywhel is light enough)</TD></TR></TABLE>
With a shitty alu flywheel, a rattle will be the least of you problems. Here's what happend to my Action alu flywheel:


Flywheel rim got loose, which again caused the flywheel to become unbalanced, whic again caused my tranny input shaft bearing to go bad, which again forced me to buy a new tranny. That became a REAL expensive flywheel

My advice : Buy a one pice chromoly flywheel. Much much safer.... Toda or nothing I say.
Toda flywheel and stock clutch here, no problems. I would replace the clutch with a new unit-why risk a used clutch on a nice new setup?
I have a B16 but also have a Fidanza flywheel with stock ITR clutch, works great. If you have 60k I would go ahead and save yourself the headache and put in a new clutch while the tranny is off. GL.
Aluminum flywheels are s oprone to breaking . See if u can get a one piece chromoly Flywheel and you should be good for a long long time.
My FW is 9.2 lb spoon( chromoly) and its working like a charm/.
My FW is 9.2 lb spoon( chromoly) and its working like a charm/.
Aluminum flywheels are **** unless they have at least a chromoly friction surface. Go with a chromoly Toda one for less headaches.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mehdiR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aluminum flywheels are s oprone to breaking .
</TD></TR></TABLE>
GOT PROOF ? Not just one incident, Your referring to many by saying are prone. So cough up at least 5 proved cases.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
GOT PROOF ? Not just one incident, Your referring to many by saying are prone. So cough up at least 5 proved cases.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Punkaddic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">two piece flywheel like the stock one design are bullshit</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd like to hear an explanation for this statement... Try.
I'd like to hear an explanation for this statement... Try.
Why are they <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideways2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aluminum flywheels are **** unless they have at least a chromoly friction surface. </TD></TR></TABLE> and Why would <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideways2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> a chromoly Toda one for less headaches.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vtec.dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> itr flywhel is light enough</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have you driven a ITR with a Comptech Al FW?
If you have then that is a shocking statement.
Have you driven a ITR with a Comptech Al FW?
If you have then that is a shocking statement.
Aluminum flywheels have been proven to fail if it has an aluminum friction surface. Mfg's have been smart to introduce 2 piece, with the friction surface being chromoly. In that case, the weakpoints move to the bonding point between the aluminum and chromoly parts. IMO, one-piece chromoly flywheel is the way to go.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sideways2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Aluminum flywheels have been proven to fail if it has an aluminum friction surface.
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OK cool. Got proof?
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OK cool. Got proof?
If only I had my CRX to show you. It failed on 170whp.
In case you dont know, IMO means "in my opinion", which were derived from my own experiences. Original poster asked for input, so I gave it. Don't be all froggy and jump on everyone's case.
In case you dont know, IMO means "in my opinion", which were derived from my own experiences. Original poster asked for input, so I gave it. Don't be all froggy and jump on everyone's case.
I ran my Fidanza Flywheel and ATS Final Drive on my stock Clutch and PP for about 2 years. Now I have the Exedy 3-puck with the same combo, and no complaints.
As for aluminum flywheels being 'weak', I have never seen any substantial proof.
As for aluminum flywheels being 'weak', I have never seen any substantial proof.





