AND it has a Honda timing belt on it... Its probably the original belt... Right?

The belt looks good, but I have no way of knowing how many miles are on it. Could be 10K, could be 100K.

Scott, who has been at this thing with an impact and a breaker bar all afternoon and it won't fuggin move.

 

I dunno how old of a Honda are we talking here and milage? I have a 2000-2001 teg motor and that sucker was a B**ch to get off of there and it is not that old.

 

How are you preventing the crank from moving? I've had good luck with the moroso crank pulley tool and a long breaker bar.

 

The motor is from a CRX Si. I think Christian said the mileage was around 100K but he doesn't know if the previous owner changed the belt.

I'm getting ready to say screw it and hope this belt was changed by a dealership at 80K miles (I know, pipe dream. But its possible).

 

Dontcha need something like this? https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1256981

 

*Somewhere* in the garage I have the right tool to hold the pulley in place and let you get an impact in there. If I can find it, want me to send it down?

I've also got a pretty stout (air powered) impact gun if that would help. I'm certainly not using it right now.

Note - I know it works on a B18C1. Unsure if it'll work on a D16.

On edit - looks won't tell you anything. The belt that snapped on Mom's old street driven GS-R "looked" fine as well...and snap! Fortunately I didn't hurt anything.

--Karl, who has a considerable tool collection, and doesn't like to use them anymore...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">--Karl, who has a considerable tool collection, and doesn't like to use them anymore...</TD></TR></TABLE>


anymore? as in you used to before?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anymore? as in you used to before?</TD></TR></TABLE>

He lost his place to store the tools when the MG lost structural integrity.

 

huge screwdriver in the transmission vent to hold it all in place while using the gun or breaker bar?

if that doesn't work, you're going to need the crank pulley tool..

 

Once loosened, a crank pulley bolt will never be as tight as from the factory. Did you notice any scrapes, rounded edges or wear marks on the crank pulley bolt before you started in on it?

The smoke wrench never fails. Heat the bolt red hot and let it cool down. If you're a man the bolt will come out with a breaker bar.

 

The motor is out of the car. Impact didn't effect it at all. I'm trying a breaker bar with a prybar stuck in the flywheel teeth so it won't turn... Nuthin'

I just got finished beating on the breaker bar with a hammer... Nuthin'
Didn't budge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Batoutahell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Did you notice any scrapes, rounded edges or wear marks on the crank pulley bolt before you started in on it?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point. The bolt *was* pristine.
Its a damned fair bet that this is the factory original timing belt.

 

bigger bar?

slap a 6' bar on there and start busting sockets!

 

heat will help.

on stuff like this, i stick a breaker bar on it, then take apart the handle from a jack so it's in 2 4' hollow sections, and slide it over the breaker bar. it turns it into a 6' or so breaker bar. if you wanted to, i suppose you could slide the whole handle over it and make it an 8' or so breaker. should be able to get a fair bit or torque on that setup.

 

I use my 18in breaker bar and about 4ft of pipe over it ... and the moroso crank pulley tool.

You might want to go with a piece of pipe and increase your breaker length until that puppy comes off.. or you snap the breaker bar

 

I don't know if it's true for all d16's, but my crank pulley doesn't have a "cutout" for the moroso tool. For the crx I've always wedged a big screwdriver in the flywheel.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Note - I know it works on a B18C1. Unsure if it'll work on a D16.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont believe it will.

You're going to need a big m'fing breaker bar to get it off. It could have been changed at some point, but the donkey that did it raged on that bolt with a 650 ft-lb impact gun. Add in a touch of corrosion and you got one mean mother to deal with.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont believe it will.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just used the moroso crank pulley tool on a d16y7, completely stock. Its possible it will only work for certain year pulleys of course.

 

I could be wrong on this

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I could be wrong on this </TD></TR></TABLE>

I very much think its different years. I don't remember one on my VX or Z6 motor... but know it came in handy on my sisters stock y7

 

I'm gonna have to do this in the next couple days myself. I have the motor out of my CRX and need to get the belt cover off to make sure it didn't crack the block where the motor mount broke. I think the lightweight crank pulley I have on it would keep me from being able to use any tool made for the job. Is there any good way to hold the flywheel still against that much torque (with the tranny either on or off) while I go at it w/ my breaker bar + jack handle? Damn I wish I had a decent air compressor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by splitime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just used the moroso crank pulley tool on a d16y7, completely stock. Its possible it will only work for certain year pulleys of course.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Depends on your pulley. If your pulley is "hexed" around where the bolt is, you're okay. My D15 pulley is round.

 

Heat the NUT up and let it cool once or twice. Then heat it up again and go at it. Pipe over the breaker bar works as well. I also suggest getting a friend to help you lay on that sucker.

I got some 300ZX rear uprights from a junkyard that had the Ebrake nuts(29mm) on so freakin' tight it pulled the threads on the stud(that'd tight). Had me and a 240 lb friend of mine stand on the LCA as we both leaned on a 3' breaker bar. Took some beer and cursing, but it finally broke free with the both of us leaning on this thing. Sounded like a small caliber handgun when it broke free.

 

Is the motor out of the car on a motor stand..? If so, pull the flywheel and put 2 flywheels bolts 1/2way in, then get a big breaker bar/prybar to bind it up with the motor stand. Add about 3 feet onto the bar , it should break. of course, I did bend a prybar into a Z doing this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Def &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Heat the NUT up and let it cool once or twice. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Isn't it a BOLT?