of you guys who built new motors, how long did they burn oil? i am at 440 miles, and it is still smoking. i changed my oil at 120 miles and again at 280. also, i heard the compression is not at its highest until it is fully broken in. my compression is right around 11.8:1, yet i did a compression test and the cylinders were consistently showing 230 psi. it should be over 250. i am waiting till 1000 miles to get it dyno tuned. any input would be appreciated. thanks.

 

my motor smoked the first 10-20 minutres during startup, after that till now, my motor has not consumed any oil at all. its daily driven with 6000KM

 

i am waiting till 1000 miles to get it dyno tuned. any input would be appreciated. thanks.[/QUOTE] Why would you wait 1000 miles to get it tuned? You may have already damaged your engine. Rings seat within the first 50 miles.

 

everything is basically stock on it, so it does not need to be tuned yet. i already had my other motor with my ecu tuned. i do not think i damage anything. you cant really tune a car when you cant even give it full throttle and take it past like 5 or 6 thousand rpms. i will be fine tuning it for na, but mainly for my n2o setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bootlegtrader &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you cant really tune a car when you cant even give it full throttle and take it past like 5 or 6 thousand rpms..</TD></TR></TABLE>


why the hell do we all care soo much about full throttle open loop pulls and tuning? partial tuning is important too..

where in the world did you get "cant really tune a car"

who said you need full throttle to tune a car? for wot yes, but for your instance just to get it around town part throttle is the best..

what cams are you running? stock?

why do you think you should be over 250psi?

 

my 11.3 lsvtec gets 220psi. i also have big cams though which lower compression.
when i built my motor it smoked for about 15-20 minutes untill it burned off all the engine lube

 

i do not want to spend $200 an hour for a partial tune. are you trying to tell me that i am wrong about being over 250psi? if so, you better do some more reading. i have never heard of big cams lowering compresion.


Modified by bootlegtrader at 3:05 PM 9/1/2005

 

thats why you do a street tune to get things settled in correctly.

Go get a wideband, And some crome or if you got the cash id recommend the Hondata S300. and then hit the streets and observe your datalogging. and tune to the Airfuel ratio. once u get on the dyno is when you play with ignition timing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bootlegtrader &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i do not want to spend $200 an hour for a partial tune. are you trying to tell me that i am wring about being over 250psi? if so, you better do some more reading. i have never heard of big cams lowering compresion.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually you need to do more reading and learn about big cams and a little thing called overlap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bootlegtrader &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i do not want to spend $200 an hour for a partial tune. are you trying to tell me that i am wring about being over 250psi? if so, you better do some more reading. i have never heard of big cams lowering compresion.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you oviously dont know much then
ever heard of over lap
if i were to put my stock cams in my motor compression would jump at least 20-30psi higher due to less being loss from over lap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bootlegtrader &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">of you guys who built new motors, how long did they burn oil? i am at 440 miles, and it is still smoking. i changed my oil at 120 miles and again at 280. also, i heard the compression is not at its highest until it is fully broken in. my compression is right around 11.8:1, yet i did a compression test and the cylinders were consistently showing 230 psi. it should be over 250. i am waiting till 1000 miles to get it dyno tuned. any input would be appreciated. thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The only time my motor smoked was the first 2 days...very minimal smoke at idle. I am getting closer to 1000 miles of beating the **** out of the motor...and no smoke at all. Many agree that the rings should seat within the first 20 miles of the motor's life.

 

now what if you put a motor together with only a light hone.. say STD bore.. wouldnt the out of round cause the rings to take a lil longer to seal? just wondering cuz i was cheap and didnt buy oversize pistons.. haha

 

so would overlap cause smoking? im not trying to be to cheap of a bastard since i just droped 5 grand on a motor, but i dont want to pay to have everything tuned twice. maybe i will look into hondata. but that stuff has nothing to do with my question. i just want to know how long your motors were smoking for. my buddy just built a 4g63 and it smoked for almost 200 miles. mine is not running shitty just smoking. thanks.

 

Maybe when you built the motor you didn't set your rings right possibly getting some blow-by through the rings.

 

possibly, but i dont think so. i had the motor built by the guy who builds the motors for garage kwai and one 6 out here in illinois. i think he knows what he is doing. if that were the case, would all the cylinders be consistent? that can be checked by puting some oil in the cylinder before testing it. if the compression goes up that is the problem. i will check to make sure. i didnt try it because i didnt think that was the problem. thanks for your input.

 

Also depends on what rings you use...oem rings have a tendency to seat longer than aftermarket ones.

 

Ive got a built ls motor new everything and it never smoked. I used non detergent oil to seat the rings and switched to detergent 10 30 after 400 and doesnt smoke at all. so maybe im lucky?? but good luck to you

 

always use non-detergent oil for break in. and like i said, and u didnt believe me, big cams dont always mean big psi/cylinder. its called overlap..like about 3ppl said

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bootlegtrader &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so would overlap cause smoking? im not trying to be to cheap of a bastard since i just droped 5 grand on a motor, but i dont want to pay to have everything tuned twice. maybe i will look into hondata. but that stuff has nothing to do with my question. i just want to know how long your motors were smoking for. my buddy just built a 4g63 and it smoked for almost 200 miles. mine is not running shitty just smoking. thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My motors stop smoking after 5-10 miles

 

You say that the engine is basically stock, so you don't feel the need to tune. Did I miss something, cause you said you have 11.8 : 1 compression, that is far from stock and would need tuning I would think. At least tune the A/F ratios.

How did you break the engine in? Seems the preferred method is to dyno tune to redline right after the build. Break it in hard to seat the rings. Hope you don't have to pull the pistons to replace the rings because they washed out due to a poor tune.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bootlegtrader &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everything is basically stock on it, so it does not need to be tuned yet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It doesn't really matter that it's stock. The best thing you can do after building a motor is to tune the car with a wideband right away. If you can't do that, then stock injectors and a stock ECU would be the next best option.

Your motor shouldn't be burning oil or smoking at all. I am guessing you car is burning oil because it wasn't built and broken in properly. The rings will seat within the first few miles, so your way past that at 440 miles. The lack of tuning probably didn't help either.

As far as how many miles you should put on your car before hitting the dyno? Well that depends on your engine builder and tuner, so I would talk with them. Some go straight to the dyno with 0 miles, some wait a few hundred, some wait even longer.

Oh and check this site out... TONS of good info (Jeff Evans defintely knows how to build and tune motors)...

http://www.evans-tuning.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It doesn't really matter that it's stock. The best thing you can do after building a motor is to tune the car with a wideband right away.
http://www.evans-tuning.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

So if I rebuilt a stock B18a motor to stock specs, the stock ecu wouldn't already be sufficiently tuned for the engine? If its alright for Honda, its alright for me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam92Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So if I rebuilt a stock B18a motor to stock specs, the stock ecu wouldn't already be sufficiently tuned for the engine? If its alright for Honda, its alright for me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't say that at all... read a little closer. Every motor is different man. I would much rather have my car perfectly tuned from mile 0 with a wideband, wouldn't you? This way you will know exactly what's going on with your motor.

I'm not saying it's bad to break your motor in with a stock ECU and stock injectors, that will work fine. Doing it this way should prevent your engine from running rich or lean.

 

Have you ever hear of a cost/benefit ratio? Enough said.

Just curious, do you run a tuning shop or dyno or something?

I do agree with you, in a perfect world, the ideal situation is to tune every rebuild, but I then would refer to my first sentence of this post. Its kinda like changing your oil every 10 miles, or building with all titanium parts.

A stock engine with a stock ecu doesn't need dyno tuning IMHO. But I do respect your opinion if you believe that it does. I have 280K miles on my engine with no dyno tune, runs like a champ. But when I rebuild with the PR3's and 404's, I will take your advice and have it tuned immediately. I don't mean to offend you btw.

 

No offense taken. I am not an engine builder or tuner, that's why I haven't got very detailed about anything. I don't think a stock engine would "need" tuning, but it could only help I would think. If I was just doing a basic rebuild I would probably just run the stock ECU and stock injectors too.

This guy claims he spent 5 grand on the motor, so the cost/benefit ratio kind of went out the window lol. He also said it's 11.8:1 compression, that's not stock (as you already pointed out), but obviously something is wrong if it's burning oil and smoking. Spending this much money, I would want it tuned well from the start.