AEM V2 dyno results.
Though you guys might like this.
We had a BONE STOCK 2004 RSX-S on our Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno this morning to do a comparison run from stock to the AEM V2 intake system. The point of this test was to have an unbiased look at what kind of power this system would actually make on our chassis dyno. Our dyno reads actual whp, so if you're looking for a Dyno Jet number, add 17% to the totals. The results were VERY encouraging.

The only thing we did between runs was unplug the battery for 1 minute to reset the ECU.
We had a BONE STOCK 2004 RSX-S on our Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno this morning to do a comparison run from stock to the AEM V2 intake system. The point of this test was to have an unbiased look at what kind of power this system would actually make on our chassis dyno. Our dyno reads actual whp, so if you're looking for a Dyno Jet number, add 17% to the totals. The results were VERY encouraging.
The only thing we did between runs was unplug the battery for 1 minute to reset the ECU.
Dude, our unit is NOT an inertial dyno, it measures REAL power at the tires. Hence the lower reading numbers. Runs were made with the hood closed as well.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team 4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Though you guys might like this.
We had a BONE STOCK 2004 RSX-S on our Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno this morning to do a comparison run from stock to the AEM V2 intake system. The point of this test was to have an unbiased look at what kind of power this system would actually make on our chassis dyno. Our dyno reads actual whp, so if you're looking for a Dyno Jet number, add 17% to the totals. The results were VERY encouraging.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSXisS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10.6 whp there translates to 5-6 irl. I'll stay with cai.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol.. thats insane numbers though
We had a BONE STOCK 2004 RSX-S on our Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno this morning to do a comparison run from stock to the AEM V2 intake system. The point of this test was to have an unbiased look at what kind of power this system would actually make on our chassis dyno. Our dyno reads actual whp, so if you're looking for a Dyno Jet number, add 17% to the totals. The results were VERY encouraging.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RSXisS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">10.6 whp there translates to 5-6 irl. I'll stay with cai.</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol.. thats insane numbers though
First off, your driveline losses are MUCH higher than the 17% rule commonly believed in this industry. By the time the tires start turning, there is much more power loss than 17%. 30-34% is more common on a FWD car, and some AWD's lose as much as 50%. If you want REAL numbers, you use a load dyno. If you want to feel better about your car, find an inertial dyno. I promise you this though, my 155whp car(load dyno) is just as fast as a 180whp(inertial dyno) car.
Secondly, we have NOTHING to gain from showing this dyno chart. I just wanted you guys to see UNBIASED numbers, with a very level playing field. We even left the car strapped to the dyno while we did the install so that NOTHING changed for the runs. That's why I'm so shocked at the results of this intake! AEM has made a great product, and I am not an AEM dealer either.
Secondly, we have NOTHING to gain from showing this dyno chart. I just wanted you guys to see UNBIASED numbers, with a very level playing field. We even left the car strapped to the dyno while we did the install so that NOTHING changed for the runs. That's why I'm so shocked at the results of this intake! AEM has made a great product, and I am not an AEM dealer either.
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Explain this please.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznboysrfr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so ... what happens when you drive around for 10 minutes in normal traffic?
your 10 whp gain is gonna be closer to maybe 3.</TD></TR></TABLE>
your 10 whp gain is gonna be closer to maybe 3.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team 4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Explain this please.</TD></TR></TABLE>
heat soak
heat soak
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aznboysrfr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">heat soak</TD></TR></TABLE>
Doubtful. Air in the engine compartment moves along at a pretty good clip once you get moving.
Doubtful. Air in the engine compartment moves along at a pretty good clip once you get moving.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomakit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Doubtful. Air in the engine compartment moves along at a pretty good clip once you get moving.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha. Just don't ever come to a stop.
Doubtful. Air in the engine compartment moves along at a pretty good clip once you get moving.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha. Just don't ever come to a stop.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tomakit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Doubtful. Air in the engine compartment moves along at a pretty good clip once you get moving.</TD></TR></TABLE>
doubtful? ... search on clubrsx. There is tons of info and countless tests done with CAI's vs. V2's relating to heatsoak.
It doesn't seem to affect B series as much as K series.
Doubtful. Air in the engine compartment moves along at a pretty good clip once you get moving.</TD></TR></TABLE>
doubtful? ... search on clubrsx. There is tons of info and countless tests done with CAI's vs. V2's relating to heatsoak.
It doesn't seem to affect B series as much as K series.
The one thing we found on every stock ECU'd K20A2 we've dyno'd is that above 6500rpm, the engine goes WAY rich. Like 10.0:1 afr. Our wideband is not wrong either, as we calibrate it quite often. I personally think Honda is programming them this way to avoid warranty issues, but at the expense of power up top. The only RSX-S we've seen that isn't super rich at the top is our buddy's K-Pro controlled RSX-S. And he tuned out the richness in the car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Team 4 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The one thing we found on every stock ECU'd K20A2 we've dyno'd is that above 6500rpm, the engine goes WAY rich. Like 10.0:1 afr. Our wideband is not wrong either, as we calibrate it quite often. I personally think Honda is programming them this way to avoid warranty issues, but at the expense of power up top. The only RSX-S we've seen that isn't super rich at the top is our buddy's K-Pro controlled RSX-S. And he tuned out the richness in the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Regardless, what's your explaination for 151whp out of a 200whp motor with an aftermarket intake? I'm not blaming you, and I don't want it to sound like that, but in all seriousness, that's rediculous. I'm not a peak-numbers guy either, but that's still shocking to me.
Regardless, what's your explaination for 151whp out of a 200whp motor with an aftermarket intake? I'm not blaming you, and I don't want it to sound like that, but in all seriousness, that's rediculous. I'm not a peak-numbers guy either, but that's still shocking to me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Regardless, what's your explaination for 151whp out of a 200whp motor with an aftermarket intake? I'm not blaming you, and I don't want it to sound like that, but in all seriousness, that's rediculous. I'm not a peak-numbers guy either, but that's still shocking to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My explaination is that driveline losses are MUCH higher than the 17% normally considered acurate. Closer to 33% in most FWD cars. I posted about this a little earlier in the thread.
Regardless, what's your explaination for 151whp out of a 200whp motor with an aftermarket intake? I'm not blaming you, and I don't want it to sound like that, but in all seriousness, that's rediculous. I'm not a peak-numbers guy either, but that's still shocking to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
My explaination is that driveline losses are MUCH higher than the 17% normally considered acurate. Closer to 33% in most FWD cars. I posted about this a little earlier in the thread.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jimmyjames »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">151HP is terrible. A stock K20A3 will make 135HP all day and that's a 160HP motor. A stock Type-S dynos at about 165 and should be almost 170 with an intake and about 175 with an intake and Hondata.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Those are Dyno Jet numbers. Inertial dynos work on a completely different principal that load type dynos.
Dyno Jet is still the most common dyno available to the public. No 2 Dyno Jets measure exactly the same, so that should tell you something right away.
Our dyno measures ACTUAL wheel power that the pavement sees. This takes into account the power at the crank, put through the flywheel, then into the transmission, onto the axels, spinning the hubs and rotors, and finally spinning the wheels and tires that COG with the pavement. If you think that through all of that heat, friction, and inertial loss that your drivetrain loss is ONLY 17%, you need a physics lesson. MOST FWD CARS tend to lose between 30-35% before the car moves. The 17% rule of thumb is BULLSHIT!
Dyno Jet's automatically factor in an extra 17% in their programming software, thus reading higher than our unit, Mustangs and others by, SUPRISE!!!, 17%!
If you add 17% to our number there, you get 177.4hp "dyno jetted" whp. Right in line with where it should be in your opinion. We at Zensport prefer to NOT lie to our customers about whp numbers, but offer both graphs (one with a 1.17 compensation factor applied) to them. Just so they don't have to face issues like this.
Numbers are just numbers. I posted this graph ONLY to show the gains made by a company's product that I'm not even a dealer for. Why? Because this part worked VERY well IMO.
I promise you this RSX-S is JUST AS FAST as one making 175whp on a Dyno Jet. Why? Because our numbers are more accurate with what actually happens when tires cog on the road.
Inertia: An object at rest wants to stay at rest, while an object in motion wants to remain in motion. The faster you spin an inertial dyno, the LESS POWER IT TAKES YOUR CAR to spin the roller faster! This is FACT.
I know not everyone wants a car with 151.6 whp, but it is more accurate, ego boosting aside. 140whp from a car rated 200bhp stock is VERY EFFICIENT! That's only 30% powertrain loss, which equates the K tranny to a VERY efficient piece of engineering! With that intake, that car now translates into roughly 215bhp!
PM me if you have any more questions. This is not to take away from anyone's numbers at all! If an NA Honda makes 200whp on our machine, it is a FAST fawking car!
Those are Dyno Jet numbers. Inertial dynos work on a completely different principal that load type dynos.
Dyno Jet is still the most common dyno available to the public. No 2 Dyno Jets measure exactly the same, so that should tell you something right away.
Our dyno measures ACTUAL wheel power that the pavement sees. This takes into account the power at the crank, put through the flywheel, then into the transmission, onto the axels, spinning the hubs and rotors, and finally spinning the wheels and tires that COG with the pavement. If you think that through all of that heat, friction, and inertial loss that your drivetrain loss is ONLY 17%, you need a physics lesson. MOST FWD CARS tend to lose between 30-35% before the car moves. The 17% rule of thumb is BULLSHIT!
Dyno Jet's automatically factor in an extra 17% in their programming software, thus reading higher than our unit, Mustangs and others by, SUPRISE!!!, 17%!
If you add 17% to our number there, you get 177.4hp "dyno jetted" whp. Right in line with where it should be in your opinion. We at Zensport prefer to NOT lie to our customers about whp numbers, but offer both graphs (one with a 1.17 compensation factor applied) to them. Just so they don't have to face issues like this.
Numbers are just numbers. I posted this graph ONLY to show the gains made by a company's product that I'm not even a dealer for. Why? Because this part worked VERY well IMO.
I promise you this RSX-S is JUST AS FAST as one making 175whp on a Dyno Jet. Why? Because our numbers are more accurate with what actually happens when tires cog on the road.
Inertia: An object at rest wants to stay at rest, while an object in motion wants to remain in motion. The faster you spin an inertial dyno, the LESS POWER IT TAKES YOUR CAR to spin the roller faster! This is FACT.
I know not everyone wants a car with 151.6 whp, but it is more accurate, ego boosting aside. 140whp from a car rated 200bhp stock is VERY EFFICIENT! That's only 30% powertrain loss, which equates the K tranny to a VERY efficient piece of engineering! With that intake, that car now translates into roughly 215bhp!
PM me if you have any more questions. This is not to take away from anyone's numbers at all! If an NA Honda makes 200whp on our machine, it is a FAST fawking car!
I think the important thing to remember here is that the dyno (in this case and regardless of the type), is used to show the difference (if any) made in HP/TQ for a particular mod. As long as a proper stock baseline was made, it doesn't really matter what the final peak HP rating is. You will always get different numbers (even from the same kind/model of dyno) because there are so many variables involved. You should only be concerned with the difference in the before and after numbers...
Modified by Red 5 at 6:37 PM 9/1/2005
Modified by Red 5 at 6:38 PM 9/1/2005
Modified by Red 5 at 6:37 PM 9/1/2005
Modified by Red 5 at 6:38 PM 9/1/2005



