besides open deck and closed deck, what are some differences within the h22 blocks? is there a prefrence for when fully built? and on sleeved block, what is the max bore before the cylinder walls are too week? is 89mm too much for 11.5.1 all motor? thanks guys

 

forget the sleeves just get type s pistons, smsp header, Jun cams, flat faced valves, euro r intake, and Bigger Tb, and tuning with ems, or something like a vafc....then learn to drive!

 

what kind of compresion will the type s pistons give me? besides, i should probably resleve since its a closed deck block. since im resleving, i should go with a slighlty bigger bore. how are the jun cams anyway? is it hype, for a 1000 bucks, they better be god!

 

Im building up my H22 as we're speaking, aiming 11.5:1. Type S pistons, Spoon gasket, P&P head with 3 angle valve job, milled deck & Ferrea valves. The rest of my mods are in my sig.

 

You don't need to sleeve if you are just doing the Type-S pistons. The closed deck will be fine. Just make sure to bore and hone it correctly to the spec if you are doing the .25mm oversized. You can only go up to 87.25mm with Type-S pistons. Mill the head .020 and you'll be at 11.6:1. I made 209 whp with those pistons, 11.6:1, my header, Crower Stage 2 cams, and a STR 70mm TB.

Any other piston and you must sleeve. Don't go bigger than 89mm. Run up to 12:1. Get some Crower Stage 3's (only $500 now from Crower!) or try Web. DPR head work. There is a lot you can do, just depends on the budget.

 

What are your power goals?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ranta18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You don't need to sleeve if you are just doing the Type-S pistons. The closed deck will be fine. Just make sure to bore and hone it correctly to the spec if you are doing the .25mm oversized. You can only go up to 87.25mm with Type-S pistons. Mill the head .020 and you'll be at 11.6:1.</TD></TR></TABLE>


but i thought H22's couldn't be bored/honed due to the FRM sleeves from the factory?

 

You can as long as you are using a FRM compliant piston like the cast OEM Type-S piston. JUN makes some also. Its something to try and aviod doing, but if you're just doing a 87.25mm piston it can be done. You just have to make sure to hone it to Honda's specs.

 

as much as possible on pump gas. im looking over 200 for sure, i would like to raise the disspalcement a bit as well.

 

You dont need bottom end work if over 200 is what your looking for.

I hit 206 on dyno dynamics with my mods in the sig, stock head/bottom end.

 

206 sounds good, but ill need more than that. im new to the h22. i got all of the b-series stuff down. i really apreciate all the feed back thanks, any more?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sky_captain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as much as possible on pump gas. im looking over 200 for sure, i would like to raise the disspalcement a bit as well. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How much money do you have to play with? 93 octane or 100 or 110? Raise the displacement by increasing the stroke. Maybe a H23 crank. 89mm max bore. Get some of these bad boys: http://www.rndauto.com/cars/ranta/pistons.jpg

 

hehe, you dont need ITBs and CAMS and all that **** to make that kind of power.... My EuroR makes 208 and 157 with just bolt ons. Its not so much having the power when you have an H series.. Its being able to get traction. What are your goals, it doesnt take much to run 12s with an h22....

 

12's would be amazing, although its in a prealude 4th gen, this is 91 octane thats whats available in az. any word on the skunk 2 intake manifold for the h22?

 

238whp 160 tq on a dyno jet. is the most we got out of a seasoned H22A Euro R Motor. same pistons as type S. 11:1 compression. PUMP GAS... good luck! BTW I have a Euro R shortblock for sale in the classifides if anyone is interested. We parted the swap out. everything else is gone already.

 

If you're limited to 91 then just run the stock FRM sleeves, Type-S pistons, and mill the head .020". Or instead of milling the head, do a H23 crank and you'll have a longer stroke, be 2.3L, and at 11.5:1 compression with those pistons. Good intake and header, 68-70mm TB, maybe the Skunk2 IM. Those Crower Stage 3's are great and they are on sale for a great price.

 

how much fabrication is needed to put the h23 crank in there?

 

Ra, only .020 milling gives that much increase in compression? Darn! Nice to known.

 

street car, daily driven? if so 2.3 bottom end with s cams and euro r manifold. if you need help give us a call we specialize in h series as well as b series n/a builds. our n/a h series drag car is putting down 260 whp and 185 lbs tq. good luck with your build.

 

just in case you do eant to go crazy i need to unload a set of twms. i need to pay mortgage.

 

how much for the twm's? crazy can be good sometimes

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1349360

theres pics in there as well

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MHRacing-310 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">238whp 160 tq on a dyno jet. is the most we got out of a seasoned H22A Euro R Motor. same pistons as type S. 11:1 compression. PUMP GAS... good luck! BTW I have a Euro R shortblock for sale in the classifides if anyone is interested. We parted the swap out. everything else is gone already. </TD></TR></TABLE>
What kind of times did this thing run?

 

has any one tried the crower stage 3's for the h22?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sky_captain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">has any one tried the crower stage 3's for the h22?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I run them.