Anyone know how to bolt a 3 point sparco harness on a 1990 crx with no roll bar/roll cage?

 

i don't know, but are you going to strother on the 4th?

 

Yeah, don't.

 

erm as in strother field ? .........dont put on the harness? why not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VeilSide_Mas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">erm as in strother field ? .........dont put on the harness? why not?</TD></TR></TABLE>

probably goes something like: dangerous to run a harness without a cage, dangerous to run a cage w/o wearing a helmet, illegal to wear a helmet in a caged car on the street.

 

Intructions:

step 1




done...anyone who has tried 2 inch belts...knows they are very uncomfortable

 

I mean , i really need to strap myself in( stock seat belts just moves too much and i always bruised my legs trying to hold myself in place) and dont have enough money for somethin fancy like a roll bar or something yet.......

 

so instead you'll bruise your stomach and shoulders

 

I rode in a car once with 2 inch belts

i couldn't wait to get out of tha car

stock belt is more comfortable

are you using the trick to lock the stock seatbelt in place.....i get good results with that

 

err how do u lock it? .... well another thing is the sparco harness already arrived to my doorstep.

if its not safe and all why do sparco make them?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VeilSide_Mas &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">err how do u lock it? .... well another thing is the sparco harness already arrived to my doorstep.

if its not safe and all why do sparco make them?</TD></TR></TABLE>

why? cuz ppl will buy it


the locking trick is to slide your seat back all the way
put on on your seat belt
tug on seat belt, to lock the mechanism
then slide the seat forward, while still pulling the belt
it'll keep the seat belt locked
and should keep you from flailing around

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why? cuz ppl will buy it


the locking trick is to slide your seat back all the way
put on on your seat belt
tug on seat belt, to lock the mechanism
then slide the seat forward, while still pulling the belt
it'll keep the seat belt locked
and should keep you from flailing around</TD></TR></TABLE>

That trick or a CG Lock (Search Google) should do the trick for the stock belts.

 

http://www.cg-lock.com/

'welcome

 

Is that what you have? I hadn't even heard of a 3 point harness, so I looked it up. To me, it looks like that was still meant to mount to a harness bar behind your shoulders. So I think that w/o one, you shouldn't use it anyway.

Edit: I just noticed when I looked at the picture again that there is an actual bolt point on the end of the shoulder strap, so maybe it is supposed to bolt to something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> illegal to wear a helmet in a caged car on the street.</TD></TR></TABLE>

do you know this for certain? or is it just a full-face helmet that's illegal on the street?

 

The three point is designed for the shoulder belts to anchor to a bolt in the trunk (and run the belt through the rear seats), or to one of the rear seat belt bolts. It is certainly not as safe as a 6 point, and since it isn't any more difficult to mount a 6 point than a 3 point, there is very little reason not to just get the good one. I can see people not wanting to drill their floor like you had to for a 5 point, but a 6 point can mount to the forward seat bolts. Even if you already received the 3 point, I would return it and get something that will keep you safe.

A Kirk Roll Bar will be around $350, and a decent 6 point will run you another $250. If you can't afford that, you might want to reconsider the level of motorsports you participate in until such time that you can foot the bill to keep yourself safe.

 

third seatbelt trick is to put a twist or two in the seatbelt before clicking it into place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dan GSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I rode in a car once with 2 inch belts

i couldn't wait to get out of tha car

stock belt is more comfortable

are you using the trick to lock the stock seatbelt in place.....i get good results with that</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm not a safety expert. But SCCA pro and Scroth has paper finding that 2" lap belts works better than 3"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I'm not a safety expert. But SCCA pro and Scroth has paper finding that 2" lap belts works better than 3"</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought that that was only in the case of when the HANS device was used?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedracer33 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The three point is designed for the shoulder belts to anchor to a bolt in the trunk (and run the belt through the rear seats), or to one of the rear seat belt bolts. It is certainly not as safe as a 6 point, and since it isn't any more difficult to mount a 6 point than a 3 point, there is very little reason not to just get the good one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

some 3 point harnesses (scroth comes to mind) are DOT approved and street legal, because they use the factory seat belt mounting points. this, IMO, would be a motivating factor for someone who wants more support but doesn't want a roll bar.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not a safety expert. But SCCA pro and Scroth has paper finding that 2" lap belts works better than 3"</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why are Schroth 5- and 6-points 3" belts then?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by artifex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

some 3 point harnesses (scroth comes to mind) are DOT approved and street legal, because they use the factory seat belt mounting points. this, IMO, would be a motivating factor for someone who wants more support but doesn't want a roll bar.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

A 6 point doesn't require a roll bar though. I used to have one in my Prelude for auto-x that ran to a hole I drilled in the trunk.... just like the shoulder belts on a comp 3 point would.

Based on that, the only difference in installing a 6 point or a 3 point is if you undo the bolts that hold down the front of the seat. To me that's a no-brainer.

Keep in mind that a 3 point like the kind he bought is just as dangerous as a 6 point in the event of a roll over. The anti-sub belts aren't the ones that hold you in place when the roof caves in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by emwavey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.cg-lock.com/

'welcome</TD></TR></TABLE>

If anybody wants a cg-lock I'll sell mine for $20 shipped

 

i bought the harness mainly because the fact that i was all over the place trying to hold myself in place when auto-crossing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I thought that that was only in the case of when the HANS device was used?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope, for HANS they make 2" SHOULDER belts.

SCCA pro and Scroth now promote 2" LAP belts. Scroth went even further to say they found the 2" belts lap or shoulder is better.

You can find SCCA pro rule online.