I was going to install my coils on my stock struts by myself... but i couldnt open the screw the 17mm nut on the lower fork... I had to buy a cheap socket set from a store. The extender twisted when i tried to torque it with the jack lift stick... so i returned the kit and will get more expensive brands.. what im wondering is... how do ppl normally do it?? Is it really hard? I coudlnt get it to budge... with a torque ratchet... the metal twisted on the cheap extender

 

If the car is old, or if it's been exposed to winter, you may have to grind the nut & bolt off and install new ones. A few years of corrosion and they're tough as hell to get off.

Best bet is to soak the nut in penetrant and hit it with a impact wrench. AND have a spare bolt handy in case you snap the bolt.

 

wtf... how do mechanics do it then?? WD-40? impact wrench?

 

you may need to hit the bolt with a little heat from a blow torch.

 

I got mine off without much of a problem without any liquid wrench at all. To start, I used a snap-on ratchet and 17mm deep socket. I put it on and angled the handle so it was sticking down and a little towards me. Then I sat on the creeper, grabbed the UCA with one hand and the brake rotor with the other, put my right foot on the ratchet and pushed. It came loose no problem. Before I tried this I was just as stuck as you. Try this out, it works well
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BTW: The snap-on tools don't really make a difference. Even craftsman is good enough. I only use snap-on because my **** roommate refuses to buy anything else. He doesn't make much money at all, but blows money like you wouldn't believe, while his wife pays all the bills. He seriously has a few thousand dollars worth of tools and has used maybe half of them AT ALL!!! I've used his tools more than he has. Dead serious.

 

PB B'Laster and a breaker/cheater bar. You shouldn't need a torch for the fronts; the rears are a different story, though.

 

i got the bolt opened.... now i got the suspension out... i cant open the top strut nut... it seems to spin the strut too... how do i do this?

 

saw it off

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AZNracerx1989 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wtf... how do mechanics do it then?? WD-40? impact wrench? </TD></TR></TABLE>Impact wrenches, penetrant, torches, cheater bars, and if all else fails, an angle grinder. With a big cheater bar and nothing else you'll snap the bolt, if it's badly corroded. If it's not corroded, the cheater bar should work. But may snap the bolt anyway.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AZNracerx1989 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got the bolt opened.... now i got the suspension out... i cant open the top strut nut... it seems to spin the strut too... how do i do this?</TD></TR></TABLE>What I did was grab a pair of lockjaw pliers, set them on relatively tight (don't want to distort the threads), and use that to as a counter-balance against turning the nut. But I've only tried that trick on the new suspension, which is still relatively new.

Regularly soak the SOB in penetrant for a few hours, then try the lockjaw trick. If all else fails, cut. Bolts & nuts are relatively cheap (just use the appropriate grade hardware - all bolts & nuts are not equal).

 

The shocks use a type of "lock nut." Find the appropriate sized allan wrench to hold it in place and get a wrench to take of the nut.

Are you sure you should be doing this? Installing/removing springs can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing.

 

Easier solution buy new struts, and dump the old ones

 

I use kroil penetrating oil with a medicine dropper for application. I do think this stuff is better than pbblaster for loosening rusted nuts and bolts. I always use anti-seeze on nuts and bolts when re-assembling. If a nut is trashed, I replace it with stainless steel. I always use stainless steel on muffler nuts and bolts. If the nut is not moving, I would torch it to red hot. Getting to red hot breaks loose the rust and the nut or bolt will almost always come off easily after a slight cool-down and a little pbblaster or kroil applied.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mericbe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Easier solution buy new struts, and dump the old ones</TD></TR></TABLE>

But you'll still need the top hats and bushings for the new ones. There is an allen key on the top of the shock shaft, use that and an open end / box wrench to get the nut off. I stripped a few of mine, so then I would cut a slot for a screwdriver. If that failed, I got out the hacksaw.

 

like said, you need put an allen key in the top of the shock to hold it still. IF by chance you strip this bolt or any that hold the shock onto the car, an air hammer can spin them off.


My best suggestion to you is step away from your car and read up on the projects you attempt before you start them. That way you see what tools are needed to complete the project and you will also know step by step how to do it instead of asking us step by step.

learn about your car before you start working on it.