Just wondering if anyone has tried it out. i was thinking of using a 3" domestic tb instead of those electric ones that always break. Do you guys think it'll hold the exhaust pressure ok when it's closed?

 

Well they hold boost pressure on turbocharged cars without much problems and thats way more than your exhaust pressure is gonna be.

 

but your intake isint over 1000 degrees

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cstay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but your intake isint over 1000 degrees</TD></TR></TABLE>

ding ding ding

U need steel y0

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flashmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well they hold boost pressure on turbocharged cars without much problems and thats way more than your exhaust pressure is gonna be.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i guess so

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cstay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but your intake isint over 1000 degrees</TD></TR></TABLE>

true, but i'll try to put it down stream more so it's not as hot.....full-race geoff uses an aluminum catback so i think it should hold up.

 

acually it holds up the heat perfectly well. i tried it with a Nissan 240 tb on my hatch and put it between the block and radiator, it held the exhaust in when closed,no leaks and i had it in there for about 5 months with no problems i say go for it

 

The DMH electric ones have a 4 year warrenty on the entire unit. It'd have to be a pretty big TB to flow what you'd like anyways.

Blaze

 

Lol at aluminum not holding heat....how did anyone come to that conclusion?? HAHAIt will hold up fine...do it...I want to see it! LOL
Kyle

 

some one over on sr20forums runs a tb cutout (NA application though)...bunch of pics and a vid in this thread

http://www.sr20forum.com/showt...utout

 

its doable,

 

ahh perfect! that's what i need

 

yeah then just use a string in the cab to pull it


hahahah this is HMT all the way. keep us updated!

 

i wanted to do one with this d16z tb i have but it has several holes in it that would leak the exhaust fumes around the throttle plate,anybody know of any cars with oem tbs with no extra holes to leak exhaust gas past the throttle plate?

 

I have one on my car. I used a dsm throttle body.

 

awesome, i'll def trying this out Do you guys know of any 3" TB's that don't have the holes like people were saying?? If not i'll just zap the holes w/ the mig welder lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Flip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">awesome, i'll def trying this out Do you guys know of any 3" TB's that don't have the holes like people were saying?? If not i'll just zap the holes w/ the mig welder lol</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah zap that Al. do you have a spool gun and pure Ar?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flashmn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well they hold boost pressure on turbocharged cars without much problems and thats way more than your exhaust pressure is gonna be.</TD></TR></TABLE>

but boost isnt realized when the tb is closed.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18Flip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
true, but i'll try to put it down stream more so it's not as hot.....full-race geoff uses an aluminum catback so i think it should hold up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

there is no doubt a al tb will hold up. BUT not all the operating parts inside of tb's are al. you have spacers, gaskets, springs, etc. things that a prone to heat warping and cracking with the rapid heat up and cool down process w/ boosted cars AND the rapid heat up and cool down of al. then again the tb cutout will be under the car where airflow will be high..as far as placing the tb downstream more. you dont wanna lose the effect the tb gives. you want it placed where the exhuast heat begins to "cool" so that your down pipe and its "dump" will be efficient.

ps. i have never ever EVER talked to someone with an e-cutout that hasnt had problems. be it electric or manual.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotommy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but boost isnt realized when the tb is closed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

When you let off the gas from a full throttle run there is.

 

eh i'm going to try it out, it seems that it has worked out for the people who have tried it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quote, originally posted by turbotommy »
but boost isnt realized when the tb is closed.

When you let off the gas from a full throttle run there is.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Right....and on cars without dump/blow off valves, pressure has to stall the turbine, go the other way and that takes fairly long to happen... (oh and I know its not good, people still do it)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotommy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but boost isnt realized when the tb is closed.

there is no doubt a al tb will hold up. BUT not all the operating parts inside of tb's are al. you have spacers, gaskets, springs, etc. things that a prone to heat warping and cracking with the rapid heat up and cool down process w/ boosted cars AND the rapid heat up and cool down of al. then again the tb cutout will be under the car where airflow will be high..as far as placing the tb downstream more. you dont wanna lose the effect the tb gives. you want it placed where the exhuast heat begins to "cool" so that your down pipe and its "dump" will be efficient.

ps. i have never ever EVER talked to someone with an e-cutout that hasnt had problems. be it electric or manual.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes the plastic spacers and washers and seals can melt. I pulled mine apart and removed all of the plastic. Sorry people, forgot to mention that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowseeker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yes the plastic spacers and washers and seals can melt. I pulled mine apart and removed all of the plastic. Sorry people, forgot to mention that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yup i'll def do that....btw how big is the dsm tb??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotommy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


ps. i have never ever EVER talked to someone with an e-cutout that hasnt had problems. be it electric or manual.

</TD></TR></TABLE>
i've been running a Quicktime cutout for about a year and a half with no problems yet.also installed a couple on people's cars with no problems.
Chris

 

joey davis has been talking about doing this forever...he's had the t/b for a long time....i've always been interested in doing it...if he can get it to work alright

 

butterfly type valves assemblies have been used in the turbo industry for a while with out a problem. these arent AL though. only thing is that the valves im referring too are used to impede flow and or raise exh mani pressure not the other way around....and they are $$$