Gets a l'il hot. Thinkin' head gasket bad? Do I NEED to have my head machined???
Put in this forum because it is a Civic D16Z6 engine. Questions pertaining to this engine only.
I may have nipped it in the butt before it did any damage, but I believe my head gasket may be blown on my D16Z6 SOHC VTEC motor that is installed in my CRX.
Senerio:
I just installed a new turbo setup, and the DAY of install, (before I had any charge pipes hooked up), I noticed she would get a little on the warmer side. I thought it was due to the new FMIC (wheras I WAS using a SMIC prior) and the fact that I started to use a half radiator (unfortunately a single core, for now (WILL BE UPGRADED)). But I was told by my turbo guru that switching to those items wouldn't cause it to act like it does heat-wise. Not to mention she never got hot like this with the other turbo setup prior to it (was only pushing about 6psi on it). But I was using the CRX's original full-width radiator, so perhaps it was masking the problem at the time.
Car now gets a little on the hot side, needle's never hit the red HOT, but uncomfortably close to it, and to keep her cooler than she has been, I have to use my heater on, not always full blast. I pulled the cap off the radiator, and a bubble every once in a while (like a couple seconds at a time) pops up, usually indicating a blown head gasket. Soot comes from my exhaust sperratically. Not a steam show.
I am changing the head gasket tomorrow.
Question is: Can I get by with just replacing the metal head gasket and torquing it down to spec? Or do I HAVE to have the head machined?
I am on a tight budget, and yes, $40 is hard to come by at the moment to have the head machined, and I need to keep her on the road with no down-time.
Any input based on my information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I may have nipped it in the butt before it did any damage, but I believe my head gasket may be blown on my D16Z6 SOHC VTEC motor that is installed in my CRX.
Senerio:
I just installed a new turbo setup, and the DAY of install, (before I had any charge pipes hooked up), I noticed she would get a little on the warmer side. I thought it was due to the new FMIC (wheras I WAS using a SMIC prior) and the fact that I started to use a half radiator (unfortunately a single core, for now (WILL BE UPGRADED)). But I was told by my turbo guru that switching to those items wouldn't cause it to act like it does heat-wise. Not to mention she never got hot like this with the other turbo setup prior to it (was only pushing about 6psi on it). But I was using the CRX's original full-width radiator, so perhaps it was masking the problem at the time.
Car now gets a little on the hot side, needle's never hit the red HOT, but uncomfortably close to it, and to keep her cooler than she has been, I have to use my heater on, not always full blast. I pulled the cap off the radiator, and a bubble every once in a while (like a couple seconds at a time) pops up, usually indicating a blown head gasket. Soot comes from my exhaust sperratically. Not a steam show.
I am changing the head gasket tomorrow.
Question is: Can I get by with just replacing the metal head gasket and torquing it down to spec? Or do I HAVE to have the head machined?
I am on a tight budget, and yes, $40 is hard to come by at the moment to have the head machined, and I need to keep her on the road with no down-time.
Any input based on my information would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Why not dump the oil and look for coolant, your problem could come from a lot of other things besides a HG. Is the radiator you are using new?
What else could cause it? Wouldn't air bubbles be an indication, as well as a little moisture out of the exhaust?
No the radiator isn't new. I got it from my friend who took it out of his '92 EG hatch simply because he swapped in a B18 and wanted to use the dual core half radiator from a coupe he had. The radiator flows very well. And has been tested well.
No the radiator isn't new. I got it from my friend who took it out of his '92 EG hatch simply because he swapped in a B18 and wanted to use the dual core half radiator from a coupe he had. The radiator flows very well. And has been tested well.
If your on a budget then try this process of elimination.
1. Bleed your cooling system get the car to operating temperature with the radiator cap off and turn on the heat. add coolant as the air bubbles get out of the system.
2. Replace the thermostat. DO NOT buy a cheapy go down to honda and get one they are around $14. once u install the thermostat the bleed the cooling system
3. Also check and be sure that your fan is turning on. If it is then you might wanna get one of the hi CFM slimline fans
4. worst thing is replacing the headgasket. gasket will cost you $60-100 depends on what kind you get. dont reuse your headbolts since your boosting. get some ARP headstuds instead cause you can retorqe them accurately later if you need to where Honda bolts are suppose to be a one time use only.
1. Bleed your cooling system get the car to operating temperature with the radiator cap off and turn on the heat. add coolant as the air bubbles get out of the system.
2. Replace the thermostat. DO NOT buy a cheapy go down to honda and get one they are around $14. once u install the thermostat the bleed the cooling system
3. Also check and be sure that your fan is turning on. If it is then you might wanna get one of the hi CFM slimline fans
4. worst thing is replacing the headgasket. gasket will cost you $60-100 depends on what kind you get. dont reuse your headbolts since your boosting. get some ARP headstuds instead cause you can retorqe them accurately later if you need to where Honda bolts are suppose to be a one time use only.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMlyfestyle »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">worst thing is replacing the headgasket. gasket will cost you $60-100 depends on what kind you get. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I picked up a head gasket already and it cost me $75. I can take it back but they're asking for a 25% restocking fee.
Anyway, why would wet soot/moisture come from my exhaust if it isn't the head gasket?
I picked up a head gasket already and it cost me $75. I can take it back but they're asking for a 25% restocking fee.
Anyway, why would wet soot/moisture come from my exhaust if it isn't the head gasket?
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my answer. check the head (and block) for straightness at a shop. if its flat. forgeddaboutit.
you think wasting $40 is bad now? how about when you kill that new HG and have take the head gasket off again and replace it a 2nd time.
as to the soot question maybe you have a cracked sleeve, hence water/oil leaking into your cylinder
you think wasting $40 is bad now? how about when you kill that new HG and have take the head gasket off again and replace it a 2nd time.
as to the soot question maybe you have a cracked sleeve, hence water/oil leaking into your cylinder
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