I know it isn't that hard to get into the 12s. I wanted to get a 88-91 CRX in good condition with no tranny or engine. If you no somewhere besides Ebay that would have thta please let me know. Once I got it I wanted to put a b18c Type-R engine into it and I want it to be all-motor. I wanted the USDM version that is 195hp I believe and the JDM is 200hp. But I wanted USDM to make it all easier. Where is the all around best site to get a engine, tranny, and everything I need to swap a b18c into a CRX? I also want Golden Eagle Mfg. to do some engine building on it. Here is what they do incase you don't know about them (I just copied and pasted this but it's just for a basic idea)...

-O-ring - a small copper wire installed around the cylinder to add extra sealing for the head gasket.
-Max bore size available to 85 mm. Recommended for turbo. ($50)
-Line Bore - to make sure the crank main journals are straight and perfect size. ($220)
-Bore and hone - to perfect specification. Tolerances are .0002" taper / .0002" round with a plateau hone for extremely quick ring seal. ($125)
-Bead Blasting - cleans the outside of the block to look brand new. ($30)
-Block inspection, 100% cleaned and bead blasted to look brand new!
-Arias Pistons ( shelf pistons or custom ) Arias is our piston of choice. We have used them, and other pistons, and have found Arias to be superior!
-Eagle, Crower, Pauter, Cunningham or aluminum BME rods. ( depending on your budget and hp goals )
-Bore and Hone ( perfect clearance for smooth, quiet operation and longevity. Our plateau hone requires less break-in for extremely quick ring seal. Tolerances held = Taper .0002", Round .0002" )
-Line bore (most companies do not offer this because it is too expensive. Crank tunnel is re-aligned to be perfectly straight and within .0001" on size. )
-Sized crank ( done to obtain PERFECT bearing clearances. We don't just match colors by code, we actually measure and size the crank as needed to our turbo race engine clearances )
-Balanced rotating assembly ( not offered by most other engine builders. Our rotating assemblies are electronically balanced to 10,000 RPM for extremely smooth operation throughout the RPM range )
-ACL race bearings ( coated bearings used in EVERY race engine we assemble )
-New oil pump
-New bottom end gasket set ( oil pan, main seals and oil pickup )
-Fully blueprinted and assembled. You get a spec sheet back with your block dictating the bearing clearances, piston to wall, all product part #'s, etc.

Once I get some of that done (hopefully) I will move on to my own upgrades. Here is a list of that parts I want to get and install...

-Unorthodoxed Racing Ultra T Adjustable Cam Gear
-Unorthodoxed Racing Ultra Ssc Crank, Alternator, and Power Steering Pulleys
-Venom Hi-Performance Fuel Rail
-Skunk2 Performance Stage 2 Camshaft
-Unorthodox Racing 6-Paddle Cermaic Clutch Kit
-Unorthodox Racing Ultra L Aluminum Flywheel
-Phantom Grip Rocker Arm
-AEM Hybrid Intake System
-TODA Sports Injection Kit
-Header (can't find a good one for a b18c Type-R, any ideas?)
-Custom Stainless Exhaust (from some shop around here unless some site sells exhaust for a b18c in a CRX)
-Brakes (can't find good brakes either also need help with that)
-ECU (I am deciding between Hondata and HKS I need some input on this too)
-Front Suspension: Progress Group coil-overs, anti-roll bar, bearings, bushings, and adjusters
-Rear Suspension: Progress Group coil-overs, anti-roll bar, bearings, bushings, and adjusters
-Koing Helium Rims (whats a good size for the front and rear?)
-Tires (don't know what tires are good for street and strip)
-Injectors (not sure what cc injectors I'll need)
-Various upgrades including ignition wires, etc.
-Chassis Braces (need a recommendation on these as well if possible)

Well that's all I think. Hope you can answer all my questions and hopefully also give me some input. Thanks for reading.


Modified by DancingKirby at 12:30 AM 8/26/2005

 

Okay not to draw attention away from my first post but I want this car to kind of be a sleeper. No cosmetic stuff. Well except the rims. Because no matter how your car looks on the outside rims always make it better and aren't as much as a new paint job and body kit. Also in my expierence having decent rims on a average looking car seems to make people want to race you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DancingKirby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I also want Golden Eagle Mfg. to do some engine building on it. Here is what they do incase you don't know about them (I just copied and pasted this but it's just for a basic idea)...</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you want them to do the work I would ask them all these questions. They will have a lot better knowledge and experience for you. Also just so you know your engine bill is going to be huge unless you have a hook up.

 

I figure like $11,000 or a little more. Depending if I decide to go with TODA sports injection because that itself is over $2,500. Although it does come with the intake manifold and fuel rail but still pricey.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX Toad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want them to do the work I would ask them all these questions. They will have a lot better knowledge and experience for you. Also just so you know your engine bill is going to be huge unless you have a hook up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Didn't pay attention at first to what you said exactly. But no I am going to be doing all the work they would just be boring, honing, and maching like that. I got a quote from them for some of the work. It isn't quite as high as I thought but still not cheap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DancingKirby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay not to draw attention away from my first post but I want this car to kind of be a sleeper. No cosmetic stuff. Well except the rims. Because no matter how your car looks on the outside rims always make it better and aren't as much as a new paint job and body kit. Also in my experience having decent rims on a average looking car seems to make people want to race you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, your 15, my first suggestions would be get a job,save your money and get your dl

 

I have had a job for a few years and have saved almost all of it. I also have the car and I have enough money for the motor, tranny, and all I need fr the swap plus some extra for a few more parts. Then after that i will just by it part by part.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DancingKirby &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have had a job for a few years and have saved almost all of it. I also have the car and I have enough money for the motor, tranny, and all I need fr the swap plus some extra for a few more parts. Then after that i will just by it part by part.</TD></TR></TABLE>
musta been one hell of a paper route good for you

ITR swap + bolt ons and good track will net 12s in a light 4th gen.

 

Well take 52 (weeks i n a years) times 5 (number of average working days) and you get 260 (days I work a year, w/o holidays). So take 260 times 8 (hours I work a day) and you get 2,080 (hours I roughly work a year). Now take 2,080 times 5.25 (minimum wage) and you get 10,920 (how much money I make in a year w/o taxes). And I have been working there for two years so you see using simple math how I can afford this project. Plus I will be doing all the work with my friends and realatives so it won't cost as much but still a good sum. Money ain't the problem here.

 

Well 8 hours is alot esp at 15 your in school. I never worked that much nor did anyone I know at that age.

Wait till bills 10K doesn't last long

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ace$nyper &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
musta been one hell of a paper route good for you

ITR swap + bolt ons and good track will net 12s in a light 4th gen.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought theere was only 1st and 2nd gen. CRXs. 1st gen 84-87 and 2nd gen. 88-91. I know 84-87 weighed the least (1713-1953lbs). But what model year between 84 and 87 is the lightest?

 

2g rex same as 4th gen civic people mix them up sometimes thats all

 

What year of CRX weighs the least? Because I looked it up and it said the first gen. could weigh as low as 1700lbs. which seems almost too low. And it would get 51/67 mpg which is amazing but weighing 1700lbs. would have a lot to do with that. So what year of CRX and model is ideal for racing street legal?