but once i get it at higher rpms it's normal. what gives? i dont see visable leaking at the calipers and has normal amount brake fluid. could be air i guess , but when it runs at normal speed, the normal braking returns.

 

Soft as in "brake pedal goes to floor" soft or
Soft as in "easier to push the pedal" soft

what year and model & milage please.

P

 

it actually goes to the floor at stops. this is a 95 lx , engine has under 100k and body over 250k, it's in great shape other than this...

 

replace the brake master cylinder asap and use a Honda part, dont get a cheap 1 from autozone, checker, napa etc ,, u might have problem with proper rod adjustment, and 1 thing make sure you bleed the master on the bench before installing it

 

i would check the system for leaks first and then bleed the brakes. I have a 94 and my brakes were soft (to the floor) and repairing the rear leaking cyalnder (passenger side) and bleeding the brakes solved the issue. Brakes are rock hard just like they are supposed to be.

 

i would think that if it had a leak it would go to the floor anytime not just fades at stops ...
i agree with Yeu to diagnose first but it sounds like a typical brake master to me

 

i'm gonna check for leaks an bleed em when i get home, but is this a typical symptom of a bad master cylinder on this model or any model for that matter ?

 

It is SO typical.
Take deserthondas' suggestion and run, not walk, to the closest parts store and get a master cylinder.
If you do a search under "Master Cylinder" you should pull up no less than 10 threads over the last month on this topic.
After you install the MC, THEN flush the brake system. The moisture that ruined your MC is still present, and will (with time) ruin the rear brake cylinders as well.

P

 

1991 accord LX auto

same thing, only happens once a week or so id say, maybe even less, but im gonna try whats been suggested/will be suggested here to make the problem go away.

question: whats the worst that can happen if i ignore this problem? complete brake failure without notice? thanks!

 

Yup!! It will reach a point where no amount if futzing with it will make the car stop.
In effect, Brake fluid is alcohol based; and because of that - over time it absorbes water. Once it reaches a super saturated state (and can no longer hold the water in suspension), the water puddles to the bottom of both your Master Cylinder, Rear Brake cylinders, Calipers and Brake lines. And it starts to rust. The condition will continue to progress to the point where finally, the water will have rusted out a trough on the botton of what's supposed to be a circular bore. Now being egg shaped and irregular, the brake piston seals (in the MC) can no longer seal against the walls, and there you are -BYPASS-. The pedal goes to the floor.

Thats why, buried in the owners manual (we all read the owners' maunal, right?) is a note to power flush the brake system occasionally. I do it every 60k.

P

 

Would there happen to be a "how-to" on the bleeding process anywhere around here? Maybe an online factory service manual? Thanks

 

Traditional power bleeders are nice because you don't tie up two technicians to do it.
Basically, a modified master cylinder cap is clamped to the master cylinder. It has provisions for a hose which suppies clean, fresh brake fluid under pressure from a power bleeder. The technician positions himself at each brake bleeder (starting at the closest one to the MC)( sequence is: L/F, R/F, L/R and R/R) and bleeds each wheel until clear fluid flows into a catch bottle. Once you finish with the right/rear wheel, shut off and disconnect the power bleeder. Some residual pressure may remain, so unclamp the modified cover slowly. Reinstall the original MC cover.

The home grown, do it yourself involves substituting the power bleeder with some lacky (straight time tech or sometime friend) who has to not only insure the MC stays full during this proceedure, but must pump up the brake pedal (until firm) and hold it while primary guy cracks the bleeders at the wheels.
This is time honored, and applys to all vehicles. So, you should be able to find it in ANYONEs' shop manual

P

 

i bled the fronts. the passenger side wouldnt hold after couple tries at bleeding it. Before and after the bleed, when i come to a semi hard stop& the pedal goes to the floor i hear the pass. side tire chirp a little. could it be just a bad caliper? b/c i have good braking ability around corners n stuff, which i think might rule out a bad MC -what do u think?

 

you beat me to it

i just replaced one on a 93 teg easy job

make sure you bench bleed it before you put it bak in, it will make your job easier

 

check your brake booster first!

this happened to me a few weeks ago and thats what mine was. The guys from accordracing.com told me that it was MC as well. But when you're broke like me you go for the cheapest thing first.

Just look how it works. you press the brakes and a rod pushes from the booster into the MC which then pushes fluid through the lines. Without this hose the booster wont function properly thus creating a pedal fall. I had this happen on my 96 Probe GT and my 94 Accord LX. Just take this hose off and try to apply the brakes. Without this hose there is no pressure in the booster so it wont function properly.

You may very well need a new MC but it wont hurt to check and or replace this hose anyways. You'd want to get a new hose when you change your MC anyways!

This is the hose im talking about: http://img.photobucket.com/alb...e.jpg

STUPID HOSE not to be confused with STUPID HOES :-)


ERROR

 

GUYS! went to the salvage yard and pulled a caliper and MC. Still had problems after the caliper. The MC fixed it. Hell yea, 'ppreciate the help !!!!

 

Glad it worked out, and thanks for the "fix report"
Diagnosing stuff thru a forum is often like shooting skeet with your eyes Blindfolded , or a one-armed hole-in-one !!

P