Hey guys,

lately my idle has been acting up (fluctuating)...and yesterday i threw a CEL 14 (IAC valve). I removed the disconnected all hoses etc in order to remove the TB to get better access. After i replaced the IAC i reattached everything the way it was before.....

When i started the car, the idle shot up to 4000 RPM and stays there. When i had the TB off, i didn't tamper with the idle adjustment so i am unsure as to what the problem is.

Car is a 00 civic d18y7 with a y8 IM.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I think you left a hose or 2 off
for an idle that high you have a big vacuum leak

 

When you switched to the y8 intake manifold did you use the y8 throttlebody or the Y7? Sounds like you did something to your iacv. Might want to double check that.

 

when i switched IM's i used the y7 TB. Has been on for 2 years with no problems.

The IAC valve that i put on now was actually off the y8 TB.

I will try to clean the old IAC, install it and see if anything changed.

I don't think i left any lines disconnected but will double check again.

 

The y7 has the iacv on the TB. Use that and make sure you have all your lines ran correctly to it and that should fix your problem. Same thing happened to me when i switched IM's on my y7.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all4show97 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The y7 has the iacv on the TB. Use that and make sure you have all your lines ran correctly to it and that should fix your problem. Same thing happened to me when i switched IM's on my y7. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats the one i was using...until it threw the CEL, thats when i switched to the IAC from the y8 TB.

 

any other feedback guys?

 

how do u "idle adjustment "

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondasport2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any other feedback guys?</TD></TR></TABLE>Replacing the valve will rarely fix the CEL 14 because it indicates a problem in the IACV circuit, ie the wiring..

So your MIL indicates a 14

1. Start the car and disconnect the 2P connector from the IACV

2. Measure the voltage between the YEL/BLK wire and a body ground, if there is no battery voltage repair the YEL/BLK wire between the IACV and the PGM-FI main realy. If you get battery voltage proceed.

3. Turn the ignition switch off and reconnect the 2P connector to the IACV.

4. Disconnect the "A" connector from the ECU and turn the ignition to the on position.

5. Momentarily connect the A9 (GRN/WHT) and A23 (BLK) terminals several times. If the IACV clicks substitute a known good ECU and retest. If problem goes away replace the ECU. No click out of the IACV proceed.

6. Check for a short/break in the BLU/YEL(at IACV GRN/WHT at ECU) wire between IACV and ECU. Then if the wire is ok replace the IACV and retest..

Just a few steps to try out before you go spend the money on a new IACV. No sense buying one if its not needed. Plus they are like $120 maybe more from the dealer..Good luck, let us know how it goes..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BLUE EH3 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do u "idle adjustment "</TD></TR></TABLE>There is a little idle adjust screw on the throttle body..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFanatic708 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Replacing the valve will rarely fix the CEL 14 because it indicates a problem in the IACV circuit, ie the wiring..

So your MIL indicates a 14

1. Start the car and disconnect the 2P connector from the IACV

2. Measure the voltage between the YEL/BLK wire and a body ground, if there is no battery voltage repair the YEL/BLK wire between the IACV and the PGM-FI main realy. If you get battery voltage proceed.

3. Turn the ignition switch off and reconnect the 2P connector to the IACV.

4. Disconnect the "A" connector from the ECU and turn the ignition to the on position.

5. Momentarily connect the A9 (GRN/WHT) and A23 (BLK) terminals several times. If the IACV clicks substitute a known good ECU and retest. If problem goes away replace the ECU. No click out of the IACV proceed.

6. Check for a short/break in the BLU/YEL(at IACV GRN/WHT at ECU) wire between IACV and ECU. Then if the wire is ok replace the IACV and retest..

Just a few steps to try out before you go spend the money on a new IACV. No sense buying one if its not needed. Plus they are like $120 maybe more from the dealer..Good luck, let us know how it goes..</TD></TR></TABLE>

The IAC in question is a 3 pin connector rotary style IAC.

Do these steps still apply?

 

I cleaned/installed the original IAC valve and the idle dropped by it now fluctuating again.

Something i noticed is that when i partially cover the bottom hole on the IM the idle holds steady, but as soon as i remove my finger, it fluctuates again.

 

I'm pretty sure the additional wire is just an additional ground but I'm not positive. Can anyone confirm if this process would be the same for the 3P IACV? Now when you say you plug the bottom hole in the IM do you mean the one inside the throttle body? If so that hole goes to the FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve) This adjusts idle speed based on coolant temp to prevent spurratic idle during startup. I really don't think this is your problem, usually when these are fucked the idle fluctuates until the vehicle has warmed up. If you go to the service department of your local Honda dealer they should be nice enough to let you gander at a factory service manual for your car to see if the test process is the same or different than the flow chart I posted for the 2P IACV. I wish I could be of more assistance.. Good luck..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFanatic708 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm pretty sure the additional wire is just an additional ground but I'm not positive. Can anyone confirm if this process would be the same for the 3P IACV? Now when you say you plug the bottom hole in the IM do you mean the one inside the throttle body? If so that hole goes to the FITV (Fast Idle Thermo Valve) This adjusts idle speed based on coolant temp to prevent spurratic idle during startup. I really don't think this is your problem, usually when these are fucked the idle fluctuates until the vehicle has warmed up. If you go to the service department of your local Honda dealer they should be nice enough to let you gander at a factory service manual for your car to see if the test process is the same or different than the flow chart I posted for the 2P IACV. I wish I could be of more assistance.. Good luck.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Here is the hole that i partially covered and the idle settled down.



That opening in the Tb flows down into this.... which from what i understand is the IACV.



As far as i know, the d16y7 does not have a FITV...if it does, im blind and cannot find it.

 

No your right that is the IACV, and you don't have a FITV, sorry if I confused you there by confusing myself. I forgot we were dealing with that motor here, currently helping like 3 people with idle issues. But like I said the circuit test process will be very similar if not the same. Your local Honda dealer should be nice enough to let you peep the service manual for your car, **** they may even let you make copies (mine does, but I used to work there). Looking through all my service manuals I only have tests for the 2P not the 3P. Did you try adjusting the idle screw on the TB. This may help but I doubt it will bring the idle down to normal spec. Let me see if I can dig up something for ya, brb...

 

Damn man I can't find anything with the 3P IACV. **** man I wish I could help more. Someone on here has to have an EK service manual to help this guy out, c'mon.

 

Just bled the coolant....there was some air in the lines but no change.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondasport2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Thats the one i was using...until it threw the CEL, thats when i switched to the IAC from the y8 TB.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you even test it before you replaced it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM-97CX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did you even test it before you replaced it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No i didnt, since i had a spare on around i figured it try it. I do not have anything to check the voltage with or else i woulda tested the original one.

 

Ok here goes, the following link is for the service manual for your car, just follow the directions in the first post.

http://forums.clubsi.com/showf...26606

Get this and go to page 467. Before you do that stop by sears and pick youself up a multimeter. You can get a good one for like $30. Then follow the flow chart. This will definitely help you figure out the issue.

GL..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaFanatic708 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok here goes, the following link is for the service manual for your car, just follow the directions in the first post.

http://forums.clubsi.com/showf...26606

Get this and go to page 467. Before you do that stop by sears and pick youself up a multimeter. You can get a good one for like $30. Then follow the flow chart. This will definitely help you figure out the issue.

GL..</TD></TR></TABLE>

hOPEFULLY i can give this a try when i get home today.

Thanks for all your time Fanatic!

 

Any other suggestions guys?

I am hoping to check the voltages when i get home, but other suggestions are welcome.

 

HondaFanatic708 you keep on impressing me with the help...
this guy is one of the nicest ppl on h-t.

 

Did you try cleaning out the IACV? Specially the screen... Cleaning mine fixed my messed up idle. GL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AdamQ3B85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HondaFanatic708 you keep on impressing me with the help...
this guy is one of the nicest ppl on h-t. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i tell ya!!