NEED HELP! cel 10, 14. Car won't idle.
1990 Honda civic DX DPFI. Just replaced the head gasket and i'm getting codes 10 and 14. The car won't idle by itself, does anybody have any suggestions?
TIA
TIA
here are the ECU codes if you didnt have them saved in your fav....
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=682412
code 10 is the IAT
and
code 14 is the IACV
get a new IACV and the 14 should go, not sure about the code 10 tho.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=682412
code 10 is the IAT
and
code 14 is the IACV
get a new IACV and the 14 should go, not sure about the code 10 tho.
Code 10 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor
When cold, it should read 2.5-4.5 volts. Also, check the ECT sensor for the same voltage, they should read close to the same. Use the above chart for the ECT for checking voltage, since the two sensor should read close to the same.
IAT Sensor Wires:
1 Red/Yellow
1 Green/White
Code 14 - Electronic Air Control ValveLets extra air into the intake manifold, to help control the idle under different loads.
Check the O-rings, for mountng condition.
Clean the inside of the Valve after removing, using any kind of solvent that will remove carbon build up. By spraying it inside the two holes ect...
Place the flat end of a screw driver on the EACV while the engine is running. Place the handle against your ear and listen. Should hear something in there jumping back and fourth at a rapid rate.
EACV Sensor Wires:
1 Blue/Black
1 Yellow/Black
Make sure the sensors are not switched around.
When cold, it should read 2.5-4.5 volts. Also, check the ECT sensor for the same voltage, they should read close to the same. Use the above chart for the ECT for checking voltage, since the two sensor should read close to the same.
IAT Sensor Wires:
1 Red/Yellow
1 Green/White
Code 14 - Electronic Air Control ValveLets extra air into the intake manifold, to help control the idle under different loads.
Check the O-rings, for mountng condition.
Clean the inside of the Valve after removing, using any kind of solvent that will remove carbon build up. By spraying it inside the two holes ect...
Place the flat end of a screw driver on the EACV while the engine is running. Place the handle against your ear and listen. Should hear something in there jumping back and fourth at a rapid rate.
EACV Sensor Wires:
1 Blue/Black
1 Yellow/Black
Make sure the sensors are not switched around.
Ok, got that the two plugs were switched. Now I have a suring idle and the distributor is clicking. Any ideas on that?
Bleed your coolant. That should get rid of the surging idle. If not, double check your vaccum hose routing or check for vacuum leaks.
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New Update: The car is running good now, idle is good, distributor is not making noise. I drove the car and it runs fine.
Now there are bubbles coming from teh radiator resivoir. Other than that is runs fine, doesn't over heat, nothing. Did the headgasket not seal?
Now there are bubbles coming from teh radiator resivoir. Other than that is runs fine, doesn't over heat, nothing. Did the headgasket not seal?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beedoublejay »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">New Update: The car is running good now, idle is good, distributor is not making noise. I drove the car and it runs fine.
Now there are bubbles coming from teh radiator resivoir. Other than that is runs fine, doesn't over heat, nothing. Did the headgasket not seal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You do know coolant will boil at a certain temperature right ? And the temperature becomes lower when no pressure is being applied. Could be normal, if it happens when the car is cold then I would look at a head gasket as the culprit.
I have also seen very very stiff engine mounts cause bubbles in the radaitor, well what looked like bubbles basically.
Now there are bubbles coming from teh radiator resivoir. Other than that is runs fine, doesn't over heat, nothing. Did the headgasket not seal?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You do know coolant will boil at a certain temperature right ? And the temperature becomes lower when no pressure is being applied. Could be normal, if it happens when the car is cold then I would look at a head gasket as the culprit.
I have also seen very very stiff engine mounts cause bubbles in the radaitor, well what looked like bubbles basically.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You do know coolant will boil at a certain temperature right ? And the temperature becomes lower when no pressure is being applied. Could be normal, if it happens when the car is cold then I would look at a head gasket as the culprit.
I have also seen very very stiff engine mounts cause bubbles in the radaitor, well what looked like bubbles basically. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah it seems to bubble right when I start the car but, it continues after the car is shut off. This leads me to believe that it is reaching a high temperature. I am also not shure that all teh air is out of the coolant system from when I changed teh head gasket. The system is full of radiator flush and water right now, I have not drained it yet. I am trying to get all the gunk out from when the head gasket was bad before.
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