Graduating to 710's!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Will be running the Kumho 710's on the integra in the next auto-x which is on a semi road course ( basic goodies Konis+ GC, Type-r Sways, intake etc).
What is the reccomended tire preasure for 710's? Also, any other suggestions for a newbie "graduating" from Azenis to 710's?
Will be running the Kumho 710's on the integra in the next auto-x which is on a semi road course ( basic goodies Konis+ GC, Type-r Sways, intake etc).
What is the reccomended tire preasure for 710's? Also, any other suggestions for a newbie "graduating" from Azenis to 710's?
I have found that the V710s work over a wider range of pressures than most tires. On my car (CSP CRX) I run them around 34 psi on concrete. You'll need to adjust the pressure quite a bit to affect the handling, so instead of going down 2-3 psi for asphalt it needs more like 5-10 to make a difference.
The V710's don't like to be overheated so if you're running in a hot climate you'll want to keep them cooled down between runs. If you're on concrete you'll really want to cool them down between runs - wheels, brakes the whole tire, everything. On the track you want to try and manage your tires and not over drive the fronts - avoid heavy understeer, less trail braking into turns, etc.
There is an amazing amount of grip in the Kumho's. I'm still figuring this out but you can drive the car much harder than you'll believe. It's still possible to over drive it, but the edge for the V710's is way up there and they are much more forgiving of mistakes than the Hoosiers were in my experience. I think the S05's are better in that regard and have grip levels equal to the V710's.
-Brian Meyer
The V710's don't like to be overheated so if you're running in a hot climate you'll want to keep them cooled down between runs. If you're on concrete you'll really want to cool them down between runs - wheels, brakes the whole tire, everything. On the track you want to try and manage your tires and not over drive the fronts - avoid heavy understeer, less trail braking into turns, etc.
There is an amazing amount of grip in the Kumho's. I'm still figuring this out but you can drive the car much harder than you'll believe. It's still possible to over drive it, but the edge for the V710's is way up there and they are much more forgiving of mistakes than the Hoosiers were in my experience. I think the S05's are better in that regard and have grip levels equal to the V710's.
-Brian Meyer
I have only autoX mine a couple times but like Gearz said I have been able to make them work over a wide range. I started at 42 cold and bled them down to 37 hot, and have since used even lower pressures on track. Rear I still adjust to balance the fronts usually ending up around 40-44
39F/42R for V710's. You'll need to balance pressures up front to help grip and keep from rolling over too much. If you are running Koni's you should set the fronts at 1/4 to 1/2 turn from full SOFT and run the rears 1/2 turn from FULL HARD. The car will rotate quite nicely for you. We started our baseline for the V710's at 45 F/R and then adjusted up or down on each end of the car to balance the car and we ended up with the pressures I recommend.
Dave
Dave
thanks for all the inputs....
one more question....I am planning to drive to the event with 710's to avoid doing the tire change there.....
Is it Ok to drive with these on the street? what is the tire preasure for the street?
thanks
one more question....I am planning to drive to the event with 710's to avoid doing the tire change there.....
Is it Ok to drive with these on the street? what is the tire preasure for the street?
thanks
BAD idea to drive them on the street. Compound will pick up too much crap on the way there IMHO. If you must drive them there just stick with 40F/R for the commute.
Dave
Dave
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I dont drive on mine at all on the street, they are too expensive to take a chance on running over a nail or something, plus they would be full of rocks you would have to pick out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schumi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for all the inputs....
one more question....I am planning to drive to the event with 710's to avoid doing the tire change there.....
Is it Ok to drive with these on the street? what is the tire preasure for the street?
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Boy, you must be rich! Or incredibly lazy!
Those tires cost about $150 each and will last for 70-100 autocross runs or about 1000 street miles. It means that each autocross run will cost you at least $6. If you drive to the event and it's 50 miles away then you have wasted about 10 runs or $60.
Changing tires at the event is harder than at home because??? Oh yeah you have to load 4 tires and a jack in the car then take them out at the event then put them back in then unload at home. Figure it takes you about 5 minutes to do it all. That's $60 for 5 minutes work which works out to $720/hour that your time is worth.
But there's more... the 710s (like most other R tires) have very little resistance to damage from road debris. So, pick up a chunk of glass or a nail on the raod and throw all $150 away.
But there's more...the 710s (like most other R tires) have very little resistance to hydroplaining. So if it rains on the way home you've got a pretty good chance of getting in an accident.
But, what do I know? Change them at home.
one more question....I am planning to drive to the event with 710's to avoid doing the tire change there.....
Is it Ok to drive with these on the street? what is the tire preasure for the street?
thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>
Boy, you must be rich! Or incredibly lazy!
Those tires cost about $150 each and will last for 70-100 autocross runs or about 1000 street miles. It means that each autocross run will cost you at least $6. If you drive to the event and it's 50 miles away then you have wasted about 10 runs or $60.
Changing tires at the event is harder than at home because??? Oh yeah you have to load 4 tires and a jack in the car then take them out at the event then put them back in then unload at home. Figure it takes you about 5 minutes to do it all. That's $60 for 5 minutes work which works out to $720/hour that your time is worth.
But there's more... the 710s (like most other R tires) have very little resistance to damage from road debris. So, pick up a chunk of glass or a nail on the raod and throw all $150 away.
But there's more...the 710s (like most other R tires) have very little resistance to hydroplaining. So if it rains on the way home you've got a pretty good chance of getting in an accident.
But, what do I know? Change them at home.
I am not that rich...I was just plain ignorant. Thanks guys for telling me how stupid I was.......This is what happens when you don't have a clue as to what you are doing.....Since I got a used set of 710's, I didn't know how much it cost, how much it will wear off by driving it to the event!!!!!! But just 1000 miles of street driving? ouch!!!!!
39/42R and Koni set up seems to be working OK. I will play around with the settings in the next event.
Is there a major difference in performance between a used set and a new one? I mean, in my experience with Azenis I have found that there is not much difference between a brand new one and a gently used one...Is it the case with R compounds also?
How long can I use this? till the cords come out? Its worn off till the treadwear bar (the small bar which goes across the grioove) bar I will post some pictures soon
Thanks
39/42R and Koni set up seems to be working OK. I will play around with the settings in the next event.
Is there a major difference in performance between a used set and a new one? I mean, in my experience with Azenis I have found that there is not much difference between a brand new one and a gently used one...Is it the case with R compounds also?
How long can I use this? till the cords come out? Its worn off till the treadwear bar (the small bar which goes across the grioove) bar I will post some pictures soon
Thanks
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