What do you use?

Thinking of a Tahoe or a Suburban but then maybe an F150. . .no idea. Don't even know what I should look for except towing weight.

In addition, what kind of trailer are you using? Open, closed, . . .

Thanks!

 

Get a turbo-diesel. Those things can tow a house with ease.

 

Best thing to do is to take your time, look around and know your budget. Go with a manual transmission if at all possible. If you get something like a 1/2 ton (i.e. F150, 1500 series, etc), then make sure it has a tow package (including a tranny cooler for auto.'s, oil cooler, beefer springs in back etc). You're probably not going to have any problems if you are getting something like a 16' or 18' open trailer. If you are looking at a 24' enclosed (or something like that), then you're going to need to step up to the plate. These things are like pulling a parachute behind you, and when you pass a big tractor-trailer, you will fill it...bad. If this is the case, you'll need at least a 3/4 to a 1 ton vehicle (i.e. F250, F350, 2500, or 3500). And you'll need something more than a 350 ci. More like a 454 ci, V-10 or diesel (preference would be a diesel). Say you get an F150, then you get a 24' enclosed (weight: trailer 3500, car 2500, stuff 1000), your trailer weight is going to be much more than the weight of your truck, you want you're truck to weight as much as possible (that's why they put huge brakes, better transmission, blah blah blah). Me, I have a Dodge 2500 Cummins Turbo-Diesel with the Cummins upgrade with an automatic - SUCKS!. Truck, trailer, car, and stuff is about 16,000 lbs. Never have a problem unless I come to a long pretty steep incline, then I may slow down 5 mph by the end. Other than that, I can pass anywhere, anytime I want. Good luck... Do some research on different vehicles, don't take one person's word. When buying mine, I found most people were pretty biased about one vehicle versus another. The biggest thing that got me was the diesel engines. Ford's diesel operate at 90% efficiency (producing that power...almost peeked out), while the Cummins was at 60% efficiency.

 

1999 Chevy Suburban C2500. It's a 2WD, 3/4 ton with the gas 454 V8. I'd have preferred a diesel but I found a killer deal on this thing so I jumped. I'm towing an open trailer with a tire rack, and the burb has NO IDEA it's back there. It's way more truck than I need right now...but I'd rather have too much than not quite enough. Pulling 5000 pounds with something like a 6-cyl Jeep Cherokee probably wouldn't be pleasant, for example.

Typically you'll pay more for a diesel than a gas V8. So you'll have to decide if the price difference...and the difference in fuel price...will be made up with the fuel mileage.

A big decision point is truck versus SUV. When I was shopping the burb was my ideal candidate. It's big enough that you can camp in it. I can fit my stuff...plus the stuff from three other people, in it, and drive home in comfort. I also like the barn doors in the back instead of a tailgate. I can actually open them without nailing the trailer.

Of course if you plan on going with an enclosed, SUVs don't offer you the ability to use a 5th wheel hitch. For what that's worth.

 

What do you guys think about a Chevy Trailblazer as a tow vehicle? We're getting ready to buy something for my wife to drive. She insisted on an "SUV". I successfully steered her towards a Toyota Rav4... about the most carlike "truck" you can get. She liked the Trailblazer (but only the LTZ). Now, I'm having second thoughts as my project car gets closer to completion and track events are actually looking like a reality.

I'd rather not put her in anything larger. I guess what I'm asking is, do you think I'd be ok pulling an open trailer in this? or should I just wait and buy something better suited for myself somewhere down the road?


[Modified by JeffS, 5:39 PM 2/25/2002]

 

I've got an Expedition with the 5.4. I've only towed the car once, didn't know it was really there. The challenge is the 30 foot camper which weighs in at about 7500lbs fully loaded or about 400lb shy of the truck's limit. I've looked into a diesel as well, but when you consider the $5k premium when new, it takes a long time (even longer now with diesel being more expensive than 87) to pay the price differential. Biggest thing when towing, esp. an enclosed trailer, is to have a proper hitch setup with the load equalizers and a quality sway control. If you decide to get a pickup, go with a long bed as some goosenecks (unlike 5th wheel campers) wont tow properly behind a shortbed. Final thought - most manufacturers downrate a towing capacity with a manual transmission which will be important if you are under warranty. This can be considerable depending on manufacturer - a good reference is the following: http://www.trailerlife.com/towratings/tr_index.cfm

 

The answer to your question will depend on where you will be towing, what you will be towing, and how often.

Make sure the tow vehicle is in excellent running shape and rated to tow what you need. Make sure it has the towing package or add the parts to make it so- main thing is a beefy hitch and automatic transmission cooler, if auto. Make sure the brakes are in excellent shape also.

With an open trailer, you should be OK with a 6 cylinder, SUV or mini-pickup but make sure the trailer has brakes and they are in excellent shape. This will be taxed pretty well if running through any serious hills or mtns. A V-8 powered SUV or pickup will be a better choice if you can live with the mileage when not towing.

If pulling an enclosed trailer, you will want a larger vehicle and the largest engine you can get. Most people are divided by gas/diesel but it seems a diesel takes longer to pay for itself unless you tow a lot.

I tow an 85 CRX ITC car on a 16' open trailer with a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee equipped with the straight 6 cyl. Probably pulling ~4500 pounds between trailer (~1750#), car (1950), and gear in the car and Jeep. This has not been a problem since I am in the midwest so do not have any huge hills to conquer. I generally run 70 plus on the intersate with no problems.

Good luck,
Devin

 

The Trailblazer will tow ~6300 lbs, and I've heard only good things about the new straight 6. I drove the Envoy when they first appeared and it drove great - was quiet, smooth and had plenty of power. The 4Runner will tow 5000lbs with the automatic but I wouldn't go to the maximum with it.

 

1989 Caprice 9C1 (police equip)
350ci small block, 3.24 ring/pinion

18' open deck, dual axle at ~1600lbs
1982 RX-7 on trailer at ~2600lbs
Total 4100lbs-4300lbs

So far, I've towed from DC to:
Summit Point, WV, many times (1.25 hours)
Lancaster, PA (4 hours or so)
VIR, Danville, VA (5 hours, hilly)

I could not tow an enclosed trailer with the Caprice. But, with the current rig, it does fine.

 

Just curious... why is this?

 

the longer wheelbase makes it easier to tow.

 

I was waiting for this response....

 

Dodge has some new motors coming out for their 2500/3500 trucks

1. 5.7L "HEMI" V8 - rated best in class for hp/tq
2. 5.9 I6 Cummins turbo Diesel - rated "most powerful" diesel available

GM has the really nice Duramax Diesel V8 with the 5 speed Allison slushbox - but you pay a HUGE premium for this motor/tranny combo

I agree with the above statements saying that you want your tow vehicle to weigh as much as possible with the most powerful engine you can afford. Big brakes are a must and you should compare brakes of different models.

I don't think the Trailblazer/Envoys are a good tow vehicle choice due to their relatively short wheel bases and lower weight. I doubt their transmissions would stand up to regular towing.

I just drove the 2002 Dodge Ram with the 5.9L V8. It's quite nicely appointed and can be ordered with the Class IV tow package and is a lot cheaper than a Tahoe/Suburban or even a Durango.

 

This past weekend my friend towed his gutted GSR (weighs 23xxlbs) w/ a tow dolly behind a F-150 long bed, 2wd, auto, but w/ the 289ci motor. It struggled up the hills to Danville. My car was towed behind a new Trailblazer LTZ w/ every option on a 2 axle open deck trailer, 1st axle had brakes on it. Trailblazer didn't know it was back there towing it up the hills and what not, only problem was stopping, but even w/ a trailer behind it the owner complained the brakes were inadequate.

Pics of each setup so you can see what i am talking about.





As for myself, i plan on looking for a '98 or so F-250 w/ the turbo diesel, since i plan on getting an enclosed trailer.

 

IMO I gotta say go for the turbodiesel... the best turbodiesel I have seen was in a Ford F-350. If you cant afford the F-350 go for the F-250 HD i think it has the same engine. and definitely go for the long bed, wheelbase while towing is very important. Also get an auto, I have heard nothing but wonderful things about the ford autos...

Hope this helps

 

the Kubos used to tow their car w/ an old 4cyl. toyota pickup pack in the day.

 

Actually, you need the longbed to put enough space between the cab & the trailer. If you have a shortbed, you could end up making contact on tight turns.

I tow my EG Civic coupe on a 16' steel deck open trailer with a tire rack. I also bring spares to the track (wheels/tires, rotors, pads, jack, 10 drawer tool chest, etc.). I tow it with a 2001 F250 Superduty Crew Cab turbo-diesel with a auto tran. I get 18mpg driving @ 75mph. The truck kicks a@@ towing. I can pass cars going up grades while towing my trailer/car with three-four people inside. Nice thing about a pickup, the dirty stuff stays in the bed, not the cab. FYI, the Power Stroke Diesel is the same for the F250 (3/4 ton) & the F350 (1 ton). BTW, the auto tran. is not known to be bullet proof. If you go used, get one with a 'radiator' tranny cooler. In stop & go, the other cooler just wasn't up to the task (admitedly up near rated capacicity). There is also a known problem with the coast clutch. Early 2k models had a bad part installed. More info available @ http://www.ford-diesel.com. There is even a link to a Dodge site there.

 

Hey Al, how many 700R4s have you put in that thing so far?

I towed about 10,000 miles last year. In my opinion, there's no such thing as too much truck when it comes to towing. Last year mid-season I went from a 1/2 ton Sub to a 3/4 and the difference on those long tows home late at night is really worth it.

You CAN tow with almost anything -- witness the guy towing the cobra in the enclosed trailer with a TRAN-SPORT!!! Still, the bigger the better. Your loaded gas mileage wont be much different with a big block or a small block. In fact the big block in my new Sub gets a lot BETTER mileage than the SB in the old one did loaded. Unloaded is a different story.

If you got the bucks, diesel or big block crew cab dually is THE way to go.

 

Exactly - in addition, some hitch shops wont install either a 5th wheel or a gooseneck hitch in a shortbed truck because of the clearance issues. A 5th wheel hitch looks like a smaller semi hitch, while a gooseneck hitch is basically a standard ball hitch in the bed of the truck. Some 5th wheel hitches can be made to slide during turns allowing for additional clearance, but it's best just to go ahead and get the long bed, it will save time and money in the long run.

I second the comment made about there is no such thing as too much truck when it comes to towing. If you are concerned with a shorter wheelbase, you wont have any problems even with an enclosed trailer unless you go longer than 24-26 feet. Anything longer, and the shorter wheelbase trucks wont be able to tow anyway due to weight restrictions.

 

Since there's already lots of "do's" posted, here's a "don't" Don't use a 1997 Pathfinder (V6) to pull a '93 Civic up Hwy 18 and I-90 over the pass. It's gutless

 

None yet. And it hasn't shown any signs of letting go. Fingers are crossed that it lasts through this season. Most of my towing is the short trip to Summit Point, which is ~80 miles with only one moderately large ascent. And they cost less to replace then the newer electronic transminssions. As long as you don't use OD, the trans temps stay reasonable (w/ the factory cooler installed of course).

The reason I always chime in with my setup isn't cause it's the best. But it is probably the cheapest posted so far. I refused to spend more on a tow rig than I did on the racecar. And that is hard to do when you race a 20 year old RX-7. So far, I have $7k in the racecar and $6k in the tow rig (including the trailer).

Towing on a budget can be done if you are careful when choosing a vehicle. I could have bought a basic Ford PU for similar money, but then, I'd still be making payments on the Civic (which I sold because the Caprice serves daily duty just as well).

 

excellent! If it does, don't try to tow to VIR like I did. The only bright spot is that you can pick up a fine 700R4 for next to nothing in Danville

It's not the worst either. My vote for that goes to the tran-sport (or is it trans-port?). At any rate, it's probably better than any of the "mid-size" SUVs that a lot of people tow with. The high CG of those things doesn't help their towing ability any.

Dunno about the cheapest. Ron might have you beat with his Crown-Vic And he's got that snappy two-tone paint job too

By the way, how did it go with the M3 guy? He seemed like a pretty good student to me. A long way to go, but willing to learn.


[Modified by guy smiley, 5:55 PM 2/26/2002]


[Modified by guy smiley, 5:56 PM 2/26/2002]

 

But mine has a spot light.

Ah, was that you who passed him off to me? It went well. His biggest problem was getting flustered when somebody would ride his tail. Every time he got off line, I looked back, and sure enough, there was a faster car waiting for the passing zone. Other than that, it went well.

I'm not sure I like the new M3 as a track car. It feels really heavy in the corners. But, it does have plenty of power to compensate. Now the RSX-S, that car was a surprise. I had Adam on Saturday; he went solo Sunday. As fast as the ITRs, but easier to drive. Too bad they all have leather - those seats are great, just slippery.

 

Astro Van

Something like the work vans you see fleets sells.

Pack everything you need in an enclosed area (back of the van). Leave some room for a matress in case you have to sleep. Get the larger v8 and you should be able to tow a good wealth of weight.

I'm in the same market for a tow vehicle, but looking for something for UNDER $5K to tow my CRX around.

 

I'm pretty sure the Astro is only available with a V6. Although I've seen smallblocks fitted, I don't think they ever came from the facotry. If I remember, they can be equipted to tow 6000lbs with 2WD and auto.